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Old 02-01-2021, 09:00 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
You have the cam deviation on bank 1 down interesting that it still throws the code and missfires.
Is it time for a smoke test? Or maybe the fuel tank vent valve is shot which is causing the gas station fill up issues and the stalling at red light issue? to which my concern is. If my fuel tank vent valve was bad, wouldn't driving the car without a gas cap allow for it to "vent" and run right or would the siphon prevention valve still seal the tank off. I am running out of things to replace and go over. One thing I will add is that before I replaced the variocam solenoid/actuator, the car would run perfect, but after I took it past 3,000 rpm it would idle bad since the variocam actuator would stick. but now it doesn't stick and the car always runs like crap below 1k rpm... why does the car still run so bad?

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Old 02-02-2021, 07:53 AM   #42
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Is it time for a smoke test? Or maybe the fuel tank vent valve is shot which is causing the gas station fill up issues and the stalling at red light issue? to which my concern is. If my fuel tank vent valve was bad, wouldn't driving the car without a gas cap allow for it to "vent" and run right or would the siphon prevention valve still seal the tank off. I am running out of things to replace and go over. One thing I will add is that before I replaced the variocam solenoid/actuator, the car would run perfect, but after I took it past 3,000 rpm it would idle bad since the variocam actuator would stick. but now it doesn't stick and the car always runs like crap below 1k rpm... why does the car still run so bad?
I would think that your issues with the EVAP system contribute to your stalling issues.
I am not schooled on all aspects of EVAP system operation but I do know it is constantly testing for vacuum integrity. It looks like a simple system but access to all the hoses and parts looks like a PITA.

If you are still throwing the P1341 code then something is still off with the timing.
If the car ran well below 3000 RPM before the actuator change out and now it does not. Then something is not right with the cam timing, the actuator, sensor or the DME/ECU.

Your timing code issue is a big issue perhaps you need a fresh set of eyes on the issue. Cam timing affects vacuum, fuel mileage, idle, power, and is most likely the cause of the miss fire codes.
I will have a friend who is also a car nut look at an issue when I am stumped just to get fresh eyes on the issue. Sometimes he sees something that I missed or just didn't see as set up wrong.

Another thing is in your posts you have mentioned that most of the SAI hoses were toast or not hooked up.
The hard starting at fill up.
The sticking actuator.
So it sounds like the car was not maintained well and that you have multiple issues in various systems.
Sorry I am not more help
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Old 02-02-2021, 08:14 AM   #43
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Vacuum leaks

I believe that tonight, Tony Callas will be doing a "how to find vacuum leaks" this may ne of interest to you

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLKNhSePDKmOzZyk3PWKu8OfQkDW2RmFSH

Good luck troubleshooting and fixing your car!
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Old 02-02-2021, 09:28 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
I would think that your issues with the EVAP system contribute to your stalling issues.
I am not schooled on all aspects of EVAP system operation but I do know it is constantly testing for vacuum integrity. It looks like a simple system but access to all the hoses and parts looks like a PITA.

If you are still throwing the P1341 code then something is still off with the timing.
If the car ran well below 3000 RPM before the actuator change out and now it does not. Then something is not right with the cam timing, the actuator, sensor or the DME/ECU.

Your timing code issue is a big issue perhaps you need a fresh set of eyes on the issue. Cam timing affects vacuum, fuel mileage, idle, power, and is most likely the cause of the miss fire codes.
I will have a friend who is also a car nut look at an issue when I am stumped just to get fresh eyes on the issue. Sometimes he sees something that I missed or just didn't see as set up wrong.

Another thing is in your posts you have mentioned that most of the SAI hoses were toast or not hooked up.
The hard starting at fill up.
The sticking actuator.
So it sounds like the car was not maintained well and that you have multiple issues in various systems.
Sorry I am not more help
I went back again and changed the timing. we are now at -0.36 for camshaft position 1 deviation, and -6.22 for camshaft position 2 deviation. When I first started the car the actual angle for camshaft bank 1 was 0.37 and the actual angle for bank 2 was 7 degrees but after i drove the car they both would switch to 22-24 once variocam engaged, and would go back to 0 at idle. but now the car is significantly worse at idle, and it stalls at every single stop light no matter what. It stalls even when I'm moving if I'm not going fast enough.


Yes the car was obviously neglected and sat for years before I bought it. poor little thingy has a million billion issues, its power seats don't work, convertible top gears don't work, drivers door lock don't work, paint is faded... cv axles are done..... I am going to order a smoke tester and test the vacuum system for air leaks next. as far as codes its the same p1341. For the evap system what should I order and replace first to get started ruling pieces out? It must be something significant Because the car idles like a muscle car with a cam.
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Old 02-03-2021, 06:43 AM   #45
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I went back again and changed the timing. we are now at -0.36 for camshaft position 1 deviation, and -6.22 for camshaft position 2 deviation. When I first started the car the actual angle for camshaft bank 1 was 0.37 and the actual angle for bank 2 was 7 degrees but after i drove the car they both would switch to 22-24 once variocam engaged, and would go back to 0 at idle. but now the car is significantly worse at idle, and it stalls at every single stop light no matter what. It stalls even when I'm moving if I'm not going fast enough.


Yes the car was obviously neglected and sat for years before I bought it. poor little thingy has a million billion issues, its power seats don't work, convertible top gears don't work, drivers door lock don't work, paint is faded... cv axles are done..... I am going to order a smoke tester and test the vacuum system for air leaks next. as far as codes its the same p1341. For the evap system what should I order and replace first to get started ruling pieces out? It must be something significant Because the car idles like a muscle car with a cam.
For the EVAP system from what I have seen it sounds like the purge vale has an issue.
Watch the video that Gilles mentioned in post 43 he explains what happens in that video.
How does it run at higher RPM????
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Old 02-03-2021, 10:54 AM   #46
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For the EVAP system from what I have seen it sounds like the purge vale has an issue.
Watch the video that Gilles mentioned in post 43 he explains what happens in that video.
How does it run at higher RPM????
I watched the video Gilles sent, I learned just how sensitive these engines really are to vacuum leaks. I bought a smoke tester last night and I plan on doing a thorough smoke test right when it comes for any obvious leaks. As its always been, once I hit the gas The rpm kicks right up and it goes pretty good, not that fast admittedly but the car was never a gt3 to begin with. for the evap system there is a fuel tank vent valve (99660520301) and there is a vapor canister purge valve (99660521301) and there is also a vapor canister purge solenoid (99660520101, 99660520100)... i have no idea which one i should start with replacing
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Old 02-03-2021, 12:40 PM   #47
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I watched the video Gilles sent, I learned just how sensitive these engines really are to vacuum leaks. I bought a smoke tester last night and I plan on doing a thorough smoke test right when it comes for any obvious leaks. As its always been, once I hit the gas The rpm kicks right up and it goes pretty good, not that fast admittedly but the car was never a gt3 to begin with. for the evap system there is a fuel tank vent valve (99660520301) and there is a vapor canister purge valve (99660521301) and there is also a vapor canister purge solenoid (99660520101, 99660520100)... i have no idea which one i should start with replacing
should be a way to test all three valves you mentioned. Do a search here on the forum for EVAP system.
Should be lots of info. Evap system problems are a somewhat common issue here on the forum.
I think the tank vent valve is the one mentioned on the video that causes the hard start problem after refill.

Last edited by blue62; 02-03-2021 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 02-06-2021, 05:39 PM   #48
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I know this is a totally different train of thought here, but have you checked your alternator and battery? If an alternator is bad, or the battery is shot, it can cause stalling at low rpms, even when moving.

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Old 02-15-2021, 03:18 PM   #49
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should be a way to test all three valves you mentioned. Do a search here on the forum for EVAP system.
Should be lots of info. Evap system problems are a somewhat common issue here on the forum.
I think the tank vent valve is the one mentioned on the video that causes the hard start problem after refill.
I had a porsche tech look at the car, what he told me is that the actual values are not indicative of a vacuum leak, rather he believes that the 6+ degree camshaft deviation on bank 2 is what is causing my rough idle, as I replaced the variocam actuator on bank 1 but I did not touch bank 2, leading to 0% bank 1 deviation and 6.4% bank 2 deviation. which I suppose is quite an imbalance in the engine timing. I think at this point the wise decision would be, drop the engine. replace bank 1 and 2 variocam plastic things and solenoids. re time the engine from scratch. preventative ims and rms replacement and trans fluid, and then put the car back together. does this diagnosis make sense?
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Old 02-15-2021, 03:20 PM   #50
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I know this is a totally different train of thought here, but have you checked your alternator and battery? If an alternator is bad, or the battery is shot, it can cause stalling at low rpms, even when moving.

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The battery is brand new and the car is 24/7 on a tender and the voltages are great :/
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Old 02-15-2021, 04:44 PM   #51
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How about the alternator? Any shop can check it for you. If an alternator is going bad it may not crank out enough amperage to support the car at idle, hence the rough running or even stalling. Even with a perfect battery this can happen. This happened to my wife's escalade while we were moving across country - the extra load on the air shocks while towing tipped the balance and if she slowed below 1500rpm the car would stall. We even bought a new battery on the road...it bought us a few hundred miles and then she stalled. We were able to limp along and finally made it - new alternator a week later (along with the leaking air struts that caused the demand) and problem solved.

It very well may not be this, but I would at least check this before dropping the engine.

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Old 02-18-2021, 06:06 PM   #52
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How about the alternator? Any shop can check it for you. If an alternator is going bad it may not crank out enough amperage to support the car at idle, hence the rough running or even stalling. Even with a perfect battery this can happen. This happened to my wife's escalade while we were moving across country - the extra load on the air shocks while towing tipped the balance and if she slowed below 1500rpm the car would stall. We even bought a new battery on the road...it bought us a few hundred miles and then she stalled. We were able to limp along and finally made it - new alternator a week later (along with the leaking air struts that caused the demand) and problem solved.

It very well may not be this, but I would at least check this before dropping the engine.

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yes the battery and alternator have checked out. in the end the car showed no vaccum leaks or anything along those lines, there is the issue with the evap sensor but that seems to be different and it seems to be so that the problem with the rough idle and stalling is a mechanical timing issue. I think my next course of action will be to remove both bank's camshafts and replace the plastic wear pads and time the engine once again. hopefully with the engine in the car, if not with the engine out. From there if it runs good I will drop the transmission and replace the ims bearing and the trans fluid. If it still idles rough ill look into possible dme issues.
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Old 02-18-2021, 06:07 PM   #53
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yes the battery and alternator have checked out. in the end the car showed no vaccum leaks or anything along those lines, there is the issue with the evap sensor but that seems to be different and it seems to be so that the problem with the rough idle and stalling is a mechanical timing issue. I think my next course of action will be to remove both bank's camshafts and replace the plastic wear pads and time the engine once again. hopefully with the engine in the car, if not with the engine out. From there if it runs good I will drop the transmission and replace the ims bearing and the trans fluid. If it still idles rough ill look into possible dme issues.
Good luck man, keep us posted

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Old 02-18-2021, 06:07 PM   #54
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should be a way to test all three valves you mentioned. Do a search here on the forum for EVAP system.
Should be lots of info. Evap system problems are a somewhat common issue here on the forum.
I think the tank vent valve is the one mentioned on the video that causes the hard start problem after refill.
The car is giving a code for an evap vent issue, but based on the live readings it seems to be a mechanical timing issue on bank 2 oddly enough, ill pull all 4 cams and replace the plastic guides and further diagnose.
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Old 02-22-2021, 04:25 PM   #55
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If I could throw in my 2 cents. I would not drop the engine until I checked/replaced the canister purge valve and or canister purge solenoid. On most setups there are normally closed valves. When they stick open and you fill your tank it pushes all those vapors from your tank to your intake. Will cause engine to run rich due to the unmeasured hydrocarbons in the combustion process. O2ís will pick up on that in closed loop and try to cut injector pulse width to compensate. Thus running ****************ty after car is in fuel control (closed loop). Probably why it doesnít run like crap for the first 30-60 seconds depending on how long o2ís take to warm up.

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