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Old 02-18-2021, 05:06 PM   #52
kbod
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Orange County
Posts: 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by ike84 View Post
How about the alternator? Any shop can check it for you. If an alternator is going bad it may not crank out enough amperage to support the car at idle, hence the rough running or even stalling. Even with a perfect battery this can happen. This happened to my wife's escalade while we were moving across country - the extra load on the air shocks while towing tipped the balance and if she slowed below 1500rpm the car would stall. We even bought a new battery on the road...it bought us a few hundred miles and then she stalled. We were able to limp along and finally made it - new alternator a week later (along with the leaking air struts that caused the demand) and problem solved.

It very well may not be this, but I would at least check this before dropping the engine.

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yes the battery and alternator have checked out. in the end the car showed no vaccum leaks or anything along those lines, there is the issue with the evap sensor but that seems to be different and it seems to be so that the problem with the rough idle and stalling is a mechanical timing issue. I think my next course of action will be to remove both bank's camshafts and replace the plastic wear pads and time the engine once again. hopefully with the engine in the car, if not with the engine out. From there if it runs good I will drop the transmission and replace the ims bearing and the trans fluid. If it still idles rough ill look into possible dme issues.
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