SS brake lines... fluid flush inquiry

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by steved0x

One trick when opening the brake lines, for example to install ss brake lines or to rebuild a caliper, put a jackstand or something in the car and set it so that it pushes the brake pedal, this seems to close off the line at the top (similar to holding your finger on the end of a straw) and it minimizes the amount of fluid that leaks out.

I would replace the SS lines, and then do your flush, as adding the SS lines will introduce a lot of air into the system and will require a major bleed after.

Thank you for that tip! OK... the "air"...

Should I be concerned about that "air" compromising any brake modules or whathaveyou... necessitating bringing it to a mechanic to clear any codes associated with ABS or other brake technology?

My approach will be to prepare the car... have all the tool(s) in order and ready... then removing the existing rubber lines... installing the SS lines... then bleeding. When installing the new lines should I start from the furthest line working forward? Anything which I should consider or otherwise be aware of before I commence? I'm not a fan of surprises.

Thank you!

[rfuerst911sc]

It's possible that you will have to bleed the clutch slave cylinder . Just keep that in mind if you bleed the brakes and the clutch feels " funny " .

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

It's possible that you will have to bleed the clutch slave cylinder . Just keep that in mind if you bleed the brakes and the clutch feels " funny " .

Tiptronic. Does that make it easier?

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by Starter986

Tiptronic. Does that make it easier?

Sorry I missed that it was a tip , slave cylinder not an issue .

[911monty]

Originally Posted by Starter986

Tiptronic. Does that make it easier?

Okay Since you actually asked this question I will be the lone dissenter. I'm offering this as sincerely as possible. Your brakes are the ultimate safety system on your car and can result in severe injury to yourself and the public if not done properly. My recommendation to you is to pay an indy to do this, it will be well worth the 1 hr. What are you going to do if you twist off a caliper line? Maybe the indy will let you watch and you can do next time. Otherwise, since you don't track your car having a Motive bleeder sitting around for two years with brake fluid in it, it may not even work next time you want to use it. Got someone with experience that wants to help you then great, otherwise let a pro do it. Good Luck and best wishes however you elect to proceed.

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by Starter986

Should I be concerned about that "air" compromising any brake modules or whathaveyou... necessitating bringing it to a mechanic to clear any codes associated with ABS or other brake technology?

I don't think so, I think the ABS modules and TC/PSM are "upstream" of the brake lines. I think those get air if folks let the brake fluid reservoir get too low when bleeding/flushing and push air down into the lines from the top. Also can happen when changing the master cylinder.

Originally Posted by Starter986

My approach will be to prepare the car... have all the tool(s) in order and ready... then removing the existing rubber lines... installing the SS lines... then bleeding. When installing the new lines should I start from the furthest line working forward? Anything which I should consider or otherwise be aware of before I commence? I'm not a fan of surprises.

Thank you!

I think you could change the lines in any order. Then when done bleed/flush from the furthest working to closest.

I tried to do mine way back using some cheap amazon flare wrenches and they didn't inspire confidence. I then got 2 used snap-on flare wrenches from ebay covering 9-12 mm and have had better luck with those.

Some of the fittings are probably going to be on there very tight so be aware of that.

I put on stainless lines a few years back, and both fronts subsequently failed right above where it joined to the caliper hardline (one failed in my driveway, and the 2nd one failed in the parking lot at the hotel when I was at Road Atlanta, thank goodness it didn't fail when I was on track), I think because I had twisted them to get the flared ends that hold it in place to line up. So loosely test fit your lines, I thought they were symmetrical but there might just be "one way" that they go one. It may have been that I just had a cheap/wrong brand, I bought them from someone that never installed them, so who knows what brand they were, how old they were etc... I have since got back to ATE brand OEM style rubber lines They have been working out for me.

I think I must have gotten some bad/wrong ones or I somehow installed them very wrong, as I don't know of anyone else that had this problem. So don't let that scare you, but if something feels wrong or you have to twist the line a lot to get it to line up, stop and see if there is a different way.

[paulofto]

I just did exactly what you are about to do back in July using Stoptech SS lines. In addition I installed new pads all around while in there.. The process I followed was to swap out each line, swap out each set of pads, and, using a Motive bleeder, bleed each caliber starting with the furthest working up to the closest. Since I have a 6 speed I also bled the clutch.

You will lose quite a bit of fluid when swapping the lines so be prepared with plenty of rags. You will also get more air out then if simply bleeding. Be very gentle loosening the brake lines nuts and only use a proper sized flare nut wrench also on the bleeders. You do not want to round off or strip these nuts. And ensue they are tightened but not overly so.

All in all it is a very simple but potentially messy job so take your time. The assistance of a friend to watch the Motive bleeder fluid level is helpful since you don't want air introduced into the system.

Good luck!

[Starter986]

Thank you to everyone for instilling in me the confidence to proceed. I love this forum!