best way to replace outer cv boot?

[The Radium King]

i was able to do it by just disconnecting the midpipe at the header and letting it drop a bit (mebbe loosen it at the muffler) and only on the driver side if i recall correctly - no need on the pssgr side. put a jack under the hub and compress the suspension to make it easier.

[CrisZenithBlue]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

i was able to do it by just disconnecting the midpipe at the header and letting it drop a bit (mebbe loosen it at the muffler) and only on the driver side if i recall correctly - no need on the pssgr side. put a jack under the hub and compress the suspension to make it easier.

Ah! that's what I was hoping to hear. I'll give that a shot before I unbolt more.
good tip!

[navair]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

i was able to do it by just disconnecting the midpipe at the header and letting it drop a bit (mebbe loosen it at the muffler) and only on the driver side if i recall correctly - no need on the pssgr side. put a jack under the hub and compress the suspension to make it easier.

You're right, I forgot about compressing the suspension!

[CrisZenithBlue]

I finally tackled it!

I removed the axle nut with an impact gun (thank god), removed the plate under the tranny, removed the bolts where the cat delete pipes meet the first set of cats and twisted the pipes downward. I was able to squeeze out the CV axles with very little effort, same when putting them back in.

Sucky part was when I realized I had to remove the inner boots (which were already replaced a while back) just to slide in the new outer boots. Guess I should have done more research because I was unprepared with not enough grease and clamps. I had to reuse clamps and they didnt go as tight as I needed them.

I had some that are the same style as these from Pelican, virtually the same:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/1044/POR_1044_SUSAXL_pg2.htm


Can anyone recommend some they used and worked well? The small 34mm ones worked but the larger 73mm simply didnt go on tight enough and were spinning on the boot.

Also, if I never see joint grease again it will be too soon!

[rexcramer]

Dorman has been making split CV boots forever. I remember using them on my VW +/- 40 years ago. I've used them on a Saturn and a Subaru. No need to pull the axle out, disturb the wheel alignment, spending hours of time fighting with frozen joints and high torque nuts.

There has to be a boot in their catalog that would work on our Boxsters. I just sent their tech support an email.

[bwdz]

Originally Posted by rexcramer

Dorman has been making split CV boots forever. I remember using them on my VW +/- 40 years ago. I've used them on a Saturn and a Subaru. No need to pull the axle out, disturb the wheel alignment, spending hours of time fighting with frozen joints and high torque nuts.

There has to be a boot in their catalog that would work on our Boxsters. I just sent their tech support an email.

Those split boots are a decent temporary patch but in no way do they really save the axles or last all that long from my experience. If your boot is torn, not only did the grease leak out but dirt likely got in there and the grease that is there is contaminated. The cv needs to be taken apart (use a brass hammer or plastic mallet to pop them to not damage anything) it needs to be cleaned, repacked and use factory style clamps if you want it to stay on tight, the tool to compress them is cheap like $10 on ebay. This is pretty simple and if you are unsure how to do it just watch some youtube videos. One other thing to keep in mind is that you are supposed to replace the axle nut and it is ok to impact them off but they need to be torqued to spec going back on, you can keep the hub from spinning by using the parking brake or just put a screwdriver in the vanes up against the caliper to hold it. Not using proper torque or excessive torque from an impact will cause premature wheel/hub bearing failure that may take a few months or even longer to show up but in extreme cases of over torque it can show up much sooner.

[rexcramer]

Originally Posted by bwdz

Those split boots are a decent temporary patch....

Point taken and I agree. Given that a lot of owners change water pumps, IMS bearings, etc. preemptively, why not CV boots before they crack/split? I hope somebody at Dorman will respond sometime this week.

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by CrisZenithBlue

Can anyone recommend some they used and worked well? The small 34mm ones worked but the larger 73mm simply didnt go on tight enough and were spinning on the boot.

Also, if I never see joint grease again it will be too soon!

I've got a pair of Porsche CV clamps (I found them!) I'll take to Napa and find out an equivalent part # and report back .

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by steved0x

I've got a pair of Porsche CV clamps (I found them!) I'll take to Napa and find out an equivalent part # and report back .

It was a bust, all they had were the stainless zip tie slide sort of universal CV Boot Clamp. Of course I had to get the one unhelpful/unfriendly guy that is there, that I always seem to get... So there may be a better match at NAPA but I was unable to find it. At lunch I will slide over to O'reilly and Advance and see what they have. It looks like Dorman might make a compatible one under their "Dorman Help" product line.

You probably have this info already off the old clamp, but the large clamp says 74 OETIKER so maybe that will help identify the right clamp.

It looks like this might be it:

CV Boot Clamp 99951248600 - Oetiker - Porsche - 999-512-486-00 | Pelican Parts

Bummer that the ones you got were too loose, which ones did you get?

Edit: this page has a little more info:

https://www.belmetric.com/oetiker-ear-clamps-large-sizes-c-15_841/cv74-cv-boot-clamp-p-1007.html

[san rensho]

Originally Posted by CrisZenithBlue

I finally tackled it!

I removed the axle nut with an impact gun (thank god), removed the plate under the tranny, removed the bolts where the cat delete pipes meet the first set of cats and twisted the pipes downward. I was able to squeeze out the CV axles with very little effort, same when putting them back in.

Sucky part was when I realized I had to remove the inner boots (which were already replaced a while back) just to slide in the new outer boots. Guess I should have done more research because I was unprepared with not enough grease and clamps. I had to reuse clamps and they didnt go as tight as I needed them.

I had some that are the same style as these from Pelican, virtually the same:

2000 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible - Axles, Bearings & Differential - Page 2


Can anyone recommend some they used and worked well? The small 34mm ones worked but the larger 73mm simply didnt go on tight enough and were spinning on the boot.

Also, if I never see joint grease again it will be too soon!

A good quality radiator hose clamp works just fine. In fact, I used one to fix a leaking inner joint. There was grease splattered all over the tranny. I thought it was a torn boot but no. The factory clamp had failed. Replaced it with the rad hose clamp and all is well.

[CrisZenithBlue]

Originally Posted by san rensho

A good quality radiator hose clamp works just fine. In fact, I used one to fix a leaking inner joint. There was grease splattered all over the tranny. I thought it was a torn boot but no. The factory clamp had failed. Replaced it with the rad hose clamp and all is well.

I heard the extra weight (although small) of the screw on the hose clamp will affect the axle over time.

I will report back once I install the genuine Porsche ones. 30$ with shipping.. not cheap for 4 pieces of metal but oh well..