What did you do with/to your Boxster today?

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by dghii

Buy a boot kit and DYI!

See if you can get a used pair from Woody and put new grease and boots, or if it is relatively low miles, just use as is.

If your new axle is brand new, maybe that is just a little extra grease coming out and it will settle down? I think I've heard that before.

I will say I cleaned my axles which were spitting grease, repacked with Redline CV-2 high temp cv grease, new boots, and drove to Atlanta for two days of on track mayhem plus 6 hours each way of highway driving, no grease leakage at all, I was pretty happy

[Boatin]

Over the past two days I replaced the water pump and serpentine belt. One lesson learned is to check the pulley wheel for play. If my Boxster had been serviced by a competent service centre that would have bee checked. SERVICED 6 months ago by dealer's yard.

[Lew]

Originally Posted by Boatin

Over the past two days I replaced the water pump and serpentine belt. One lesson learned is to check the pulley wheel for play. If my Boxster had been serviced by a competent service centre that would have bee checked. SERVICED 6 months ago by dealer's yard.

Plastic or Metal WP?

[Boatin]

Metal impeller. The old one was also metal and the bearing had a couple of millimetres of play in it.Total exercise probably cost me and the roadside service about $2400.

[Rickvd]

We had a great ride from Franklin to Nashville Indiana and lunch at the artist colony inn. This is the #9 ranked scenic route.

[PCinDC]

Wrapped a few projects this weekend. Going in for suspension setup and alignment tomorrow.

[Jim 'n' SC]

Just bought back my 2003 Boxster that I bought new from the guy I sold it to ten years ago. Planning on several mods and have a Fabspeed Maxflo muffler on the way. I'm pretty excited to have my old car back in my garage!

[MWS]

Originally Posted by Jim 'n' SC

Just bought back my 2003 Boxster that I bought new from the guy I sold it to ten years ago....

Nice! Congrats on having your car back. I've often wondered what happened (and how they were treated) to cars I've previously owned...now YOU'LL know.

[Oldcarguy]

Installed my new Rennline pedal set. They look and drive great. No comparison to stock for heel and toe.






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Bald Eagle]

Just saw your post about Rennline pedals and I've been thinking about getting them because I've been frustrated trying to bend my foot, leg, ankle, and butt to heel and tow. Are the pedals a pain to install (in my hands a screwdriver is a blunt instrument).

Larry (The Bald Eagle)

[PaulE]

Originally Posted by Bald Eagle

Just saw your post about Rennline pedals and I've been thinking about getting them because I've been frustrated trying to bend my foot, leg, ankle, and butt to heel and tow. Are the pedals a pain to install (in my hands a screwdriver is a blunt instrument).

Larry (The Bald Eagle)

I did only the Rennline gas pedal with the side extenders and the plate underneath the pedal that lets you adjust the pedal "depth" and angle. For that, I had to cut out a paper template and drill 2 holes in the plastic gas pedal. It was pretty simple, I didn't screw it up!

[Bald Eagle]

Thanks for the info... going to do this!

[PaulE]

Originally Posted by Bald Eagle

Thanks for the info... going to do this!

If you can wait until December, Rennline always has a sale for the entire month. I think it's 15% off everything.

[Burg Boxster]

Originally Posted by Bald Eagle

Just saw your post about Rennline pedals and I've been thinking about getting them because I've been frustrated trying to bend my foot, leg, ankle, and butt to heel and tow. Are the pedals a pain to install (in my hands a screwdriver is a blunt instrument).

Larry (The Bald Eagle)

Haven't done the Rennline set, but did a few others which I'm sure are similar......

#1 Tip - START w/ the Brake pedal. Seems counterintuitive as it's the hardest - but it has the most obstructions on back you need to compensate for - plus it's hardened steel. However, b/c of this, you want to make it your 'set the level' pedal and then the other pedals will easily align off of. FYI - he other pedals are all plastic, drill out very easily and have very few backside obstructions.

#2 When drilling the brake pedal, use a center punch to prevent any 'bit wander'. Can use for others too but not 100% necessary as it is on brake.

#3 And speaking of bits... have a couple extra on hand as the brake pedal likely will require more than one (again, it's hardened and you'll get impatient push harder on the drill and promptly snap a bit... or three - so my friend says from experience )

#3 Apply Loctite blue on the thread hardware when fastening if none pre-applied. Unlikely but doubt you want them coming loose while driving

Easy DIY, just be patient lining up and drilling the brake pedal - then the other 3 will go on in a snap.

Good luck

[Oldcarguy]

Originally Posted by Bald Eagle

Just saw your post about Rennline pedals and I've been thinking about getting them because I've been frustrated trying to bend my foot, leg, ankle, and butt to heel and tow. Are the pedals a pain to install (in my hands a screwdriver is a blunt instrument).

Larry (The Bald Eagle)

Hi Larry, +1 on everything Burg Boxster said. In addition, my brake pedal wasn’t totally flat, it had a high spot top to bottom down the center. I applied a strip of 3m VHB automotive tape on each side of center then made sure to alternate tighting the self locking nuts. This way I was able to ensure the pedal was level and tight.

The pedals look great but the true benefit is how easy it is to now heel and toe. Night and day difference from stock. My downshifts almost sound as good as my wife’s s5 DCS gearbox Also the Rennline are not as slick as my OEMs, my foot stays were I put it.

I’ve installed a few sets of these across the years, so I had prior experience. Take your time and ensure the alignment is the way you want it. Test fit and mark the mounting holes for drilling with a silver paint pen or marks-a-lot, then test fit again. Be sure the screw has enough clearance side to side on the rear of the pedal so you can correctly install the locking nut. The Rennline brake and clutch pedals are a little larger that the bare pad plates, so try to keep both sides with the same overlap. Some people like to brace the pedals from behind to keep them from depressing during the drilling.

That’s about all I can think of. All of these installs go a little differently, even on the same model car

[Bald Eagle]

Is there any functional advantage, other than cosmetic, to getting the brake and clutch pedals?

Larry (the Bald Eagle)

[Oldcarguy]

Originally Posted by Bald Eagle

Is there any functional advantage, other than cosmetic, to getting the brake and clutch pedals?

Larry (the Bald Eagle)

For me there definitely was. The rubber dots are grippy so your foot stays where you put it, the pedal contour more naturally matches the pedal pivot when depressing the pedal, the pedal surface area is slightly larger and the pedal shape is better. YMMV because these are subjective things.

Also, just to note that these pedals (with the accelerator extensions) may not be suitable for drivers who do not have experience with closely spaced pedals. If others drive your car, be sure to point out the pedal configuration. We don’t want any cases of ‘unintended acceleration’

[Ciao]

Originally Posted by Oldcarguy

Installed my new Rennline pedal set. They look and drive great. No comparison to stock for heel and toe.






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Wow! That looks Cool and Functional!

[Ch4114]

Went to Pittsburgh cars and coffee. It was on the edge of raining all morning but still a good turnout.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[alm001]

This weekend I drove 1.5hrs top down in the sun to go sailing in RI. Then drove back in the rain, with a stop for new wipers.