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Old 02-21-2011, 12:45 PM   #1
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Maurice, where did you see the valve for 33$?
Pelican parts has it for 80$

Do you know of a secret place thet sells these parts cheap?

Thanks
Sasha
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Old 02-21-2011, 02:31 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sasha055
Maurice, where did you see the valve for 33$?
Pelican parts has it for 80$

Do you know of a secret place thet sells these parts cheap?

Thanks
Sasha
Sasha:

I replaced mine about three years ago, and I think I bought it from either Sunset or Suncoast.

Here it is from another source, apparently available for $32.68, but with an .01 ending on the part number. (Same part, but an earlier version, according to Porsche nomenclature scheme): http://dcauto.gotdns.com/illustration/index/471829446

Let us know if you are able to get it, etc...

Regards, Maurice.
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Old 02-21-2011, 11:18 PM   #3
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I ordered my breather valve from the OPC in Malaysia and it cost about US$49. Which was surprising as the OPC in Singapore wanted more than twice that.

Anyway, I tried keying the part no into Pelican Parts and I think the price that came back was about US$80 if I wasn't mistaken.

It's a long wait for the part though.... up to 3 weeks was what they said.

Dale, I'll keep you updated once I get the breather valve.... it's no fun listening to the hissing sound from the area of the valve every time I do a spirited run. At least the coolant loss is quite small (fingers crossed !!!).
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Old 03-07-2011, 06:46 PM   #4
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Finally got the breather valve installed this morning. The hardest part of the whole install was only the removal of the old breather valve housing. There is just no space to get a good grip of it. I used 2 allen keys (for the ikea furniture) and stuck them through the holes in the housing and yanked the housing out.

My old breather valve diaphram was in pretty good shape but the bolts were totally rusty and the O rings were slightly deformed. I found that everywhere the coolant came into contact with the plastic, the plastic looks different - you can actually see the fibres, whereas the dry parts were smooth. Does it mean I have corrosive coolant ??

Went for a 15min drive and after letting it idle for another 5 mins, the breather valve went to work and vented. Is it supposed to vent so quickly ? The housing was just somewhere between hot and warm and I could still touch it (water temp was around 85 degrees C, I have the low temp thermostat). This is a brand new breather valve that I just bought from the OPC. If it still vents so quickly, I presume I'll still get condensation on the trunk lid ??

The breather valve looks like an over-engineered item, on my E36 BMW, it's just a screw like thing on the radiator... (I know as it broke once !)

Last edited by shlim8; 03-07-2011 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 03-08-2011, 04:51 AM   #5
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Sigh, the new breather valve did not solve the problem.... or maybe I've got a new problem, don't really know as I never knew where the "old" leakage was...

I've now got bubbling from the bottom of the breather valve housing, when the car is hot and left idling for a while.

My first thought was that the 0 rings were not seated properly. I've re-installed the breather valve 3 times, checked for dirt, cracks or anything that might cause a leak. Can't see anything and the bubbling is always at the same exact spot !

The threads of the bolts holes in the coolant tank seems fine, but is it possble that the leakage is from one of the bolt holes ?? Bubbling is from the side of one of the hole locations. I'm pretty sure the O ring is seated properly. The bolts are tighten to hand tight and then about 1/8 of a turn more or less. The bolts were really loose on the original breather valve.

Any ideas ?? Other than a new coolant tank ??
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:36 AM   #6
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you have a crack. time for a new tank.
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insite
'99 Boxster
3.4L Conversion

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/KMTGPR-1.jpg
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:17 AM   #7
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Anybody have a picture of the tank opening once the bleeder valve is removed? I replaced my bleeder last week and didn't see any o-rings at all. There was a circular disc with a couple rows of holes sort of near the center but I didn't lift that off. Are the o-rings under that? I doubt my bleeder valve was actually bad. The new and old looked and operated identically.
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