high water temp?

[jmatta]

All the convincing I need...just placed my order.

[jhandy]

Well I figured someone though of it before me.

http://www.elephantracing.com/oilhandling/fans.htm

That site has aftermarket oil cooler fans to addon to your spec 911.

Anyway, would some like this be a benift? I bet it would.




How do you take the oil out of the loop and install a seperate oil cooler?

Thanks

[cas951]

Everyone covered most of the items you need to check. If the Engine temp is constantly high and you've already checked that the airflow to the radiator is not clogged these are your other possibilities.

1. Thermostat can operate normally but they can be sticky and open partially. This will cause your engine temps to be higher than normal since the flow of coolant is limited.

2. I have not replaced a water pump on a Boxster but if the water pump material is similar to BMW's and Vw's this could be at fault. BMW and VW waterpump uses a hard rubber compound impellers. These wear out overtime and can no longer push the required volume of coolant to cool the engine and cause your temp to be higher than normal. VW had a recall on their waterpump due to this and BMW's require to change at 50k.

Inspecting either of these route will require you to get into the engine compartment and also drain the coolant. Probably a good time to replace both.

I have seen both BMW and VW pumps when they failed. The impeller was completely rounded

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by jhandy

Well I figured someone though of it before me.

http://www.elephantracing.com/oilhandling/fans.htm

That site has aftermarket oil cooler fans to addon to your spec 911.

Anyway, would some like this be a benift? I bet it would.




How do you take the oil out of the loop and install a seperate oil cooler?

Thanks

These will not work for a Boxster. The oil cooler on the M96 is an oil/water design mounted under the rear driver's side of the intake manifold. It does not depend upon air flow for cooling. To convert it to air/oil cooling, you would need the LN oil filter adpaptor, then run lines to the front of the car and add the heat exchanger. You will also need a thermostatic flow control valve to prevent the air/oil unit from over cooling the oil (yes, that is an acutal problem).

In reality, the OEM M96 oil cooler design on the S model is pretty good and also acts as an oil warmer in colder weather to get the oil up to proper temps quickly. Much simpler and more compact than going air/oil............

[jhandy]

JPF.
that is true. look on the top drivers side of the motor, There is a oil heat sink. looks like a square compact radiator.

part number 996-107-025-57-OEM

if a fan was placed on this part, it would push more air through the fins and cool the oil more.??.
I am going to check the front, and the t-stat, but as an addon this is simple, and if it would cause lower oil temps, that would save the life of the motor, at least from my understanding.
just drove to lunch, and the car went to 198 and stayed there, so i guess something is not right.
I am checking real time temps via the port under the dash.

Did we ever establish what the "normal" temp should be?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by jhandy

JPF.
that is true. look on the top drivers side of the motor, There is a oil heat sink. looks like a square compact radiator.

part number 996-107-025-57-OEM

if a fan was placed on this part, it would push more air through the fins and cool the oil more.??.
I am going to check the front, and the t-stat, but as an addon this is simple, and if it would cause lower oil temps, that would save the life of the motor, at least from my understanding.
just drove to lunch, and the car went to 198 and stayed there, so i guess something is not right.
I am checking real time temps via the port under the dash.

Did we ever establish what the "normal" temp should be?

When you actually see one of these up close, you will understand a bit more. The exchanger is a "laminar" design, kind of like a loaf of bread on end, where the odd numbered slices have coolant flowing thru them in one direction, and the even slices have oil in them going the other way. There are no air passage ways like a radiator has; it is a solid object, so putting a fan on it will gain you nothing as the heat exchange takes place at the "slice-to-slice" interfaces.............

Have you verified that your front radiators are clear? And I don't mean just looking at them thru the grills; I mean pulling the front cover off and looking between the A/C exchangers and the radiators? You might be surprised at the junk that collects in there and causes cooling issues......we have found everything from a ton of foliage to dead birds inside these systems.



Here's a good "backyard DIY link: http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Porsche/Radiator/Radiator.html

[JFP in PA]

Here's a picture of the exchanger to help you understand my post:

[cnavarro]

I would be the first to say not to put a front mounted oil cooler using our spin on oil filter adapter. Although the engine is "dry sump", I treat it like a wet sump engine and I don't think the pump is up to the task of pushing the oil to the front of the car and back again. Putting on the S oil cooler is a very smart idea on a non-S car. Laminar flow oil coolers (heat exchangers) like this are very efficient, so I honestly believe that it is plenty.

The only adapter I use with the spin-on oil filter adapter is an accusump single-port input adapter to put an accusump on the engine for the track, coupled with a shorter Napa Gold 1081 stubby oil filter to maintain ground clearance.

My wife's W8 passat uses the same laminar flow oil to water cooler as the S, which is the same as the one used on the side of the tiptronic transmission. It's widely shared among many models.

I've noticed that in traffic that some of the added heat is for sure from the tiptronic slipping the torque converter (versus putting it in N while stopped), so automatic cars for sure would benefit from a low temp thermostat even more since there is more heat being pumped in and getting full coolant flow earlier is a great thing.

[Jaxonalden]

Jhandy,

Read my post (#6), now please do the tests and post the results. You will find your problem. Fix it before it fixes you. might want to read this post also, Will need some on this one... .

Regarding this statement from JFP in PA about installing a 160 degree thermostat;

"9. Does it increase performance? The correct answer would be “Damned if I know.” We have heard of slight gas mileage increases after doing this, but currently have not data to confirm or deny that. Should it increase oil and engine life expectancy? My response would be “Definitely.” Cooling the engine, and in particular the oil, is “a good thing”…………"

If that were true don't you think the mechanical engineers at Porsche would know this and install a 160 thermostat at the factory? They don't because for the engine to be "efficient" it needs to run at the OEM spec temp. I think Porsche has a little more knowledge in this field (almost 80 years) than most.

You have a 7 year old car with 62k on the clock, your problem is ether dirty radiators or your pump is going tits up.

[jhandy]

bumper coming off tonight when I get home, I will post results,
Thanks to everyone for your help.
James

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Jaxonalden

Jhandy,
If that were true don't you think the mechanical engineers at Porsche would know this and install a 160 thermostat at the factory? They don't because for the engine to be "efficient" it needs to run at the OEM spec temp. I think Porsche has a little more knowledge in this field (almost 80 years) than most.

Are you referring to the "Almost 80 years" of experience that also gave us slipped cylinders in the 2.5L M96, rear main seal failures across the entire M96 line and IMS bearing issues leading to catastrophic engine failures?