Moving up to Street Prepared worth it?

[truegearhead]

Originally Posted by Bigsmoothlee

Being a mod-aholic, I took the plunge into Street prepared my second season. Although the car itself was faster, I didnt get much faster until I had a lot more seat time. Im in my third season now, and Ive attended almost every AutoX possible... And Im finally becoming a decent driver, but im still midpack.

Have you let any instructors drive your car? That should tell you how far behind your driving ability is vs the cars ability. Ever taken a driving school? My friend, who occasionally codrives my car, went to an autoX driving school, and got so much seat time he had to leave to get gas. There were 45+ runs, and he left with a much better understanding of the cars handling at the limit.

Modifying your car is a lot of fun, but you wont get faster until your technique improves.

I have let a handfull of the instructors drive my car and they haven't beaten me yet. Althought they all drive very different cars as well. I've done a couple classes as well as HPDEs and feel like my ability isn't all that bad, of couse I could certainly improve. I could add a sway bar this season and remain in stock, I wonder if that would help close the .5 second gap at all, .2 seconds would be great! I could also potentially stretch a larger front tire on, I'm currently running a 225 up front. Could I run a 235 over the stock front tire if I used a hard sidewall autocross inspired tire?

[Topless]

What tires are you currently running? Did you get a performance alignment? An M030 rear sway and wider front tire will allow you to rotate the car more easily. If you have the mod bug, do that.

Having the best possible tire for your class and making the most of it is very important in AX.

[truegearhead]

I'm running 255 Rivals in the back and Hancook RS3 225s in the front (Rivals don't have that size) but both tires are as competitive as you can get and are apparently very close in carateristics. As I mentioned below I really think I could stretch a wider tire in the front given the stiff nature of these kinds of tires.

They sell a 235/45/17 Hancook RS3. Think that would fit on the front?

[Topless]

Originally Posted by truegearhead

I'm running 255 Rivals in the back and Hancook RS3 225s in the front (Rivals don't have that size) but both tires are as competitive as you can get and are apparently very close in carateristics. As I mentioned below I really think I could stretch a wider tire in the front given the stiff nature of these kinds of tires.

They sell a 235/45/17 Hancook RS3. Think that would fit on the front?

My suggestion to max your AX class:

1. Run 235/255 in the exact same tire. It matters. 35 psi hot

2. Alignment specs: Max front camber (-.7?) with a touch of toe out.
Rear camber (-1.2) with a touch of toe in.

3. M030 rear sway to rotate the car more easily anytime you lift.

$. Pull any excess weight within the rules.

This will only cost a few hundred $$ and might be worth .5 sec.

[truegearhead]

Originally Posted by Topless

My suggestion to max your AX class:

1. Run 235/255 in the exact same tire. It matters. 35 psi hot

2. Alignment specs: Max front camber (-.7?) with a touch of toe out.
Rear camber (-1.2) with a touch of toe in.

3. M030 rear sway to rotate the car more easily anytime you lift.

$. Pull any excess weight within the rules.

This will only cost a few hundred $$ and might be worth .5 sec.

Excellent! I think this is some may be the route. So you think a 235 will work? It sounds like some people are stretching 325s on a 7" wheel on other cars (like Miatas) but I've never heard of it on a Boxster. Also you think the rear is sway is more benefitial than a M030 front? I've heard people on both sides of the fence.

[Topless]

Originally Posted by truegearhead

Excellent! I think this is some may be the route. So you think a 235 will work? It sounds like some people are stretching 325s on a 7" wheel on other cars (like Miatas) but I've never heard of it on a Boxster. Also you think the rear is sway is more benefitial than a M030 front? I've heard people on both sides of the fence.

235/255 is the Boxster Spec setup. It works.

Some guys like a heavier bar up front but when I did it in 2009, understeer got worse and my times went up instead of down. My brother added a rear M030 and proceeded to win 3 regional championships. I think it really depends on tires and setup. A car with PSS9s, lots of front rake running A6s 285 square will need a lot more front bar. For a stock car with stock struts, relieving understeer with a rear bar allows you to add gas sooner and this is a good thing. Choose wisely.

[Bigsmoothlee]

The instructors couldnt beat your time, and this is your first season? Either you are a prodigy who will soon be a pro racer, or the instructors in your area suck. In my area, most of the instructors are the fastest drivers.

I would try the M030 rear bar and maxing out the front camber, it'll definitely help with rotation. The alignment specs Topless mentioned are pretty much spot on and will make a day and night difference.

[thstone]

Originally Posted by truegearhead

So you think a 235 will work?

We run a 235 on the stock front wheels in Boxster Spec racing. They fit and work fine.

[j.fro]

FWIW, in 2010 Courtney Cormier was the SCCA ASP National Champion driving a fully prepped Vette. At least half of the others in that list are also quite accomplished. Chris Cann is having a breakout year.
You're doing great this year. Think about the cost to max out your car for your current class, then think about the cost to max it out for ASP. In ASP do you think it will be competitive with the cars that are winning?? Look at SCCA Nats...what cars are winning, and how are folks doing in base 986es??
By The way, moving to ASP is going to move you down the list in PAX. PAX is so the slow cars can feel good about themselves. Go for class wins and FTD.