11-20-2017, 05:17 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrantyB
Could you tell me what the offsets are for those rims?
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Probably ET55
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03-24-2014, 11:03 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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We recently had a THIRTY TWO (3-2/32) CAR Boxster Spec field race in Texas. I believe ONE car was not square out of those 32 (he didn't get the memo 5 years ago)
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
Last edited by Brad Roberts; 03-24-2014 at 11:07 AM.
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03-24-2014, 11:13 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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That is how we first tested it in 2005!! Had a lot of 964 and 993 wheels laying around 
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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03-24-2014, 11:28 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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Big? remind me to CALL YOU when I'm in a bar fight in Hoboken!!
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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03-25-2014, 05:23 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: weehawken nj
Posts: 240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Roberts
Big? remind me to CALL YOU when I'm in a bar fight in Hoboken!!
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Will do, let me know when youre in town!
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03-24-2014, 11:34 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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Yes, we run GT3 front 5 way adjustable bar and Tarett 4 way adjustable rear
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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03-24-2014, 11:39 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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but... you can run your street car square and disconnect/reconnect as needed. It takes 10min to disconnect the rear bar and reconnect. Zip tie the drop link that you remove to the toe link. They move at the same rate.
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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03-24-2014, 11:45 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southern New jersey
Posts: 1,054
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In that case, I would think the max. tire width that will fit would be best for ultimate speed, then balance with the bars. What are the wheel/tire width limits ?
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03-24-2014, 11:49 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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235/17 front 255/17 rear.. we run 255 square
The car ends up with more grip than power 
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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03-24-2014, 11:55 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southern New jersey
Posts: 1,054
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No doubt! But 255 is the maximum width allowed by the rules ?
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03-24-2014, 11:58 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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Yes, per our spec rules 255 RA1 or 255 RR,
On a 987 here in SoCal, we run 285 square (it fits 295 easily in the rear)
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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03-24-2014, 12:05 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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Testing 245 A6 square for 2 lap time trial format blast. It worked
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Engine Builds, Transmission Builds, Engine Conversions, Suspension Installs, Suspension Tuning, Driver Coaching, Data Acquisition, Video, SCCA/PCA/POC/NASA/GRAND AM/ALMS.
We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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11-20-2017, 09:25 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: WA
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Roberts
Testing 245 A6 square for 2 lap time trial format blast. It worked
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This is the photo, this forum page two.
So my new to me rear wheels which soon to be on the fronts are in their way to me. A nice felow from ebay traded me them for many dollars.
To start with camber adjustment to make even tire wear, lower controll arms would be the first mod. Are we talking about just the fronts or all the way around? I plan to gradually get to the rest of the suspension, in stages. I read spec boxster allows stock suspension...i cant believe anyone would be much competitive when other guys going balls out and doing the whole new everything suspension wise..
Please excuse the thread ho jacking.
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11-21-2017, 04:25 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: B'ham, AL
Posts: 267
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I have yet to install GT3 LCAs on the rear, but did install new 986 LCA's and the tarrett rear toe control arm.
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Tim
1998 986 (3.2L and 6-speed transmission added)
1999 986 (SPB)
1999 986 (parts car)
2001 986 S (parts car)
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03-24-2014, 05:53 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 414
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Brad:
What kind of camber are you guys running square?
I used to run square until I put in GT3 arms and cranked in about -3 deg. in front, at which point I had major oversteer. Ended up going 255 Front / 285 rear which calmed down the oversteer.
I guess I could have cranked in some more front bar, but that seems to fall under the heading of "unsticking the end that is working", which Caroll Smith taught us not to do.
Thanks for any info.
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Kippis
986S
991S
Van Diemen RF97
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03-24-2014, 06:49 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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Camber depends on the driver and track. I change alignments for every track.
I've run upwards of -3.7 on the new RR (944 guys are talking about -4.0) in the front.
On my cars, I start with a .5 degree split between front and rear. I then take a ton of tire temps from all over the USA and adjust the cars per track per driver ability.
Not aiming this directly at you.. but you have to be INSANE to think you can just bolt on square and go. 99% of the people who try square come back and say the same thing you said "I had a ton of front grip".. well.. NO SH_T!!
Please note: I'm smiling when busting balls. I cannot tell you how many people have come to me saying exactly what you are saying.. LOL
FYI: Caroll is correct... BUT... Caroll's info was based in 1970. The cars have changed. A LOT. The tubs are so stiff now (with a cage) that minor adjustments to them give big results.
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Engine Builds, Transmission Builds, Engine Conversions, Suspension Installs, Suspension Tuning, Driver Coaching, Data Acquisition, Video, SCCA/PCA/POC/NASA/GRAND AM/ALMS.
We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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03-24-2014, 06:53 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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In the PRO world? (or SCCA AutoX) I have exactly NO time to make decisions. What if I need to adjust the wrong end because I don't have time to make a spring change? You damn well bet I'm adjusting the wrong end
I do whatever it takes to make the car work.... NOW. I can adjust a rear bar or remove it on the hot pit wall in less than one lap at most tracks. I prefer to use the rear bar for adjustments because I can reach it easily.
__________________
Engine Builds, Transmission Builds, Engine Conversions, Suspension Installs, Suspension Tuning, Driver Coaching, Data Acquisition, Video, SCCA/PCA/POC/NASA/GRAND AM/ALMS.
We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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03-24-2014, 07:11 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Roberts
I do whatever it takes to make the car work.... NOW. I can adjust a rear bar or remove it on the hot pit wall in less than one lap at most tracks. I prefer to use the rear bar for adjustments because I can reach it easily.
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What rear bar?
I used to run around with it disconnected thinking that I would find some occasion to hook it up, but finally just pulled that dead weight out. I run just enough front bar for camber control in roll. If I ran more front bar, I would need more rear bar, but what's the point?
__________________
Kippis
986S
991S
Van Diemen RF97
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03-25-2014, 03:25 AM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southern New jersey
Posts: 1,054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAP1DOUG
Brad:
What kind of camber are you guys running square?
I used to run square until I put in GT3 arms and cranked in about -3 deg. in front, at which point I had major oversteer. Ended up going 255 Front / 285 rear which calmed down the oversteer.
I guess I could have cranked in some more front bar, but that seems to fall under the heading of "unsticking the end that is working", which Caroll Smith taught us not to do.
Thanks for any info.
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The key is, don't use tire size to adjust balance unless there's no other option. Tires dictate the maximum potential grip, adjust geometry/alignment to get the tires working their best. The balance is (generally) adjusted with springs and bars. So to reduce the oversteer the easiest would be to stiffen your front bar, or you could install softer rear springs. Of course, if you don't have rules limiting you to 255's , stay with the 285's, and fine tune the balance in the same manner.
Caroll smith's quote doesn't really apply, you're not really taking away grip, you're just adjusting how much weight each end of the car has to "carry" via roll stiffness distribution.
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03-24-2014, 07:22 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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Good man! Multiple tracks here near SmellA that I run NO rear bar. I leave them in place and secure the drop link out of the way. If I need it in a hurry? break the zip tie and install the drop link in 2min. I consider disconnecting and reconnecting an adjustment
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Engine Builds, Transmission Builds, Engine Conversions, Suspension Installs, Suspension Tuning, Driver Coaching, Data Acquisition, Video, SCCA/PCA/POC/NASA/GRAND AM/ALMS.
We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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