Oil Change Diaster

[JimmyBad]

I had the same issue once and I also had an aluminum plug, so I went to the auto parts store and bought a flat head chisel. I used to work at a quick lube shop, so I went under the car and hammered the chisel at an ideal angle where it would not break anything but have enough bite to get the plug rotating.

[SMK Shoe]

Originally Posted by JimmyBad

I had the same issue once and I also had an aluminum plug, so I went to the auto parts store and bought a flat head chisel. I used to work at a quick lube shop, so I went under the car and hammered the chisel at an ideal angle where it would not break anything but have enough bite to get the plug rotating.

Started doing that, and will probably end up doing it. I just didn't want to get too destructive until we had replacement parts on hand. Did not want his Boxster up on the lift for a week or two while he sources parts. Once a new drain plug, oil pan, gasket material and oil are here. then we can get progressively more aggressive. It is drivable now and will be for a few thousand miles until next oil change is needed.

[Vza]

Dropping the pan is not a big deal at all. No gaskets for these you have to put a bead of sealant on the flange....thats about the biggest pain of the project but not too bad. V

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by Vza

Dropping the pan is not a big deal at all. No gaskets for these you have to put a bead of sealant on the flange....thats about the biggest pain of the project but not too bad. V

That bead of sealant is the biggest pain. You don't want it too thick... you don't want it too thin. When I removed my pan I did find a few pieces of sealant caught in the mesh that sucks up the oil.

What I did to ensure properly reinstalling the pan, without it slipping all over when trying to align it to the engine, was to visit Auto Zone and purchase a few like-threaded bolts, and about 2 inches long... lopping off the heads with a dremel... screwing them partially into the "corner holes of where the pan rests... then slipping the pan over them with one hand and screwing in hand tight a few of the oil pan bolts. Once the pan was secured to the engine I removed the bolts absent the heads and finished the job.

Boom. No mess. No fuss.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Starter986;606114
What I did to ensure properly reinstalling the pan, without it slipping all over when trying to align it to the engine, was to visit Auto Zone and purchase a few like-threaded bolts, and about 2 inches long...[B

lopping off the heads with a dremel... screwing them partially into the "corner holes of where the pan rests..[/B]. then slipping the pan over them with one hand and screwing in hand tight a few of the oil pan bolts. Once the pan was secured to the engine I removed the bolts absent the heads and finished the job.
Boom. No mess. No fuss.

+ 1

yep, JFP shared this tip on the forum and works perfectly, no mess and you will get it done right the first time!
.

[Racer Boy]

There is no oil sump gasket, you use a special sealer.

Based on what has happened, I also wouldn't let your friend tighten the bolts that hold the sump on, because he'll strip those, too. Then you have stripped holes in the engine block.

[JimmyBad]

Originally Posted by Racer Boy

There is no oil sump gasket, you use a special sealer.

Based on what has happened, I also wouldn't let your friend tighten the bolts that hold the sump on, because he'll strip those, too. Then you have stripped holes in the engine block.

Spreads like a virus.

[rexcramer]

Use a proper torque wrench. OEM oil plug 37 ftlbs, OEM filter housing 19 ftlbs. I couldn't find the torque specs for the sump pan in the Bentley book. Check Pelican's tech articles. I believe the spec for the sealant is 2MM wide strip. Anymore and it ends up in the pan and starts floating around in your oil passages. I believe Pelican used Loctite 5000 in their tech article. Hopefully somebody will add in details. And don't forget the washers.

[Jager]

Everyone should have one of these Extractors:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/century-drill---tool-3156/tools---equipment-16488/tools-23747/cutting---drilling-tools-16542/screw-extractors---nut-breakers-17952/2ab2f4cc0680/century-drill-tool-screw-extractors/73406/2620515?q=no+6+easy+out&pos=0



Makes removing stripped oil drain plugs a breeze. Get a NO. 6 (size)

[lmnsblu355]

How about jb weld quick weld the 10 mm hex into the stripped drain plug. Let completely dry and then remove remove the plug with a breaker bar. If it doesnt work, nothing lost b/c you will be drilling for an easy out anyway.

[PaulE]

If the M10 Triple Square doesn’t work how about a splined screw extractor like these in the right size?

Irwin Tools Hanson 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Screw Extractor Set, 25 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zRmWDb4EG3HWG

[jpcjtrtj]

I will 2nd, or 3rd the extractor method. I used a pipe wrench to break the nut free once the extractor was set. Learned the hard way my torque wrench is very quiet at 37 ft/pounds . . . 7 hour oil changes at my house