Porsche Approved Oil List

[cnavarro]

Originally Posted by Paul

0w-40 M1 is fine for our cars. M1 has put different additives in the oil to replace the ZDDP. (from a tech session at the Porsche Parade in Keystone last week.)

Yes, probably given by a sales person from Mobil. One of the Parade organizers asked me after the 356 Lit Meet earlier this year to do an oil talk like I've given to many clubs and at national events (I was on vacation, so I couldn't), but I wouldn't have since if I didn't have anything nice to say, so I was better off not saying anything at all. :-) Mobil was a sponsor for the Parade and it was implied that I had to play nice, and everyone knows what I think of the new Mobil 1 formulations.

Like I tell many I speak to, if you insist on running a Mobil 1 product, there's always the M1 10w40 4T Racing motorcycle formulation, that is closest in spec to what would have been used back in the late 90s when these engines were new (in respect to Zn and P). You could even run a 50/50 blend with the m1 0w40 and motorcycle oil if you wanted, that's what's in our Boxster now. Can't wait to see the used oil results.

[Paul]

Charles I have attended one of your seminars and I have sent you one of my UOAs (at your request) that clearly showed that 11,000 miles and 17 months of use of M1 0w-40 was fine.

[cnavarro]

Sorry Paul, not trying to single you out. Just I get a lot of phone calls re: M1.

Most definitely Paul, your results showed that the 2 yr, 12,000 mi drain interval is certainly doable. I just had another sample of Pentosin 5w40 with 2 years and 7,000 mi still had a TBN of 7.2 (started at 10), with wear levels the lowest I've ever seen from an M96 engine (5w40, SL rated). Driving styles and habits clearly affect drain intervals, no argument there.

I myself have observed a 5,000 mi interval (with changes approximately every 6 months) gets me to a TBN of just under 5, which to some, is the sweet spot of when to change your oil. That's with mixed driving including short drives where the oil isn't given a chance to get hot enough to vapor off the water content. Winter driving also seems to reduce TBN faster and yield increased wear levels. Cars that aren't driven in the winter aren't subjected to the demands placed on the lubricant that otherwise a year round car might see.

Also, forgot to add, oil formulation has a great deal to do with drain interval too. Oils with less Zn and P will form less acid, allowing longer drain intervals. Secondly, the majority of oils, M1 included, use primarily a Ca-based detergent, that is more thermally stable and maintains TBN better, allowing for further longer drain intervals. A lot of the oils I personally like, due to formulation, would require shorter drain intervals accordingly. Good example of how this affects drain interval is Valvoline NSL Racing - they recommend a 600 mi drain interval on a 5 qt capacity, which I've verified through UOA, adjusting drain interval for increased volume.

[Flavor 987S]

Charles, there are 2 additional things I have also learned from your web site:

1) Oil filter changes 1/2 way through the oil drain interval

2) Always change the oil after the use of a fuel system cleaners like Chevron's with Techron

Can you please comment a little more about these recommendations, as to why you make these suggestions? Thanks!

Lastly, what is your opinion of Mobil's 5W50??

[Brucelee]

I used to use M1 exclusively in all my vehicles. Then, they started to get cagey about whether they really were selling a true syn oil. Many (including me) believe they now sell a hydro-cracked version under the M1 brand, rather than the Group 4 formula they had been selling.

Hence, I moved to Red Line.

Who knows the truth or if there is a "truth."

[ChefCarnivore]

I seems like the oil for a 97 boxster has been a moving target as forulations change. What would be the present recommendation for a 97 boxster with 100,000 miles on it?
This would be the first oil change since I bought it.

Thanks for all who respond.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by ChefCarnivore

I seems like the oil for a 97 boxster has been a moving target as forulations change. What would be the present recommendation for a 97 boxster with 100,000 miles on it?
This would be the first oil change since I bought it.

Thanks for all who respond.

Consider a quality 10W-40 full synthetic with ACEA A3, B3, B4 ratings like Castrol Syntec.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Brucelee

I used to use M1 exclusively in all my vehicles. Then, they started to get cagey about whether they really were selling a true syn oil. Many (including me) believe they now sell a hydro-cracked version under the M1 brand, rather than the Group 4 formula they had been selling.

Hence, I moved to Red Line.

Who knows the truth or if there is a "truth."

Major draw back I have with Red Line oils is their lack of ACEA ratings (I've learned not to trust API since it switched from being a specification watchdog to a public relations arm of the industry); although I'll give Red Line credit for admitting it, unlike other brands such as RP, who have gotten caught more than once playing games with what ratings they hold...............

[941MXVET]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Major draw back I have with Red Line oils is their lack of ACEA ratings (I've learned not to trust API since it switched from being a specification watchdog to a public relations arm of the industry); although I'll give Red Line credit for admitting it, unlike other brands such as RP, who have gotten caught more than once playing games with what ratings they hold...............

I'm currently switching most of my cars over to Redline. I don't think it's fiscally prudent for a small nieche oil company to pursue gov. ratings as I imagine the costs associated with obtaining the rating would out weigh the bennefit of having it.