Help needed with rear suspension

[shaman1204]

OK, so I had the dreaded rear suspension clunk, worse on the passenger side than driver's side. Last December I had both rear lower control arms replaced by te dealership. Slight improvement, but the clunk was still there going over rough pavement and sharp bumps.

A couple weekends ago I replaced the rear track arms with debluzparts (sp?) adjustable rear track arms. Clunk is now almost nonexistent on the driver's side, but the passenger side now has more of a metal on metal sound when driving over rough pavement and sharp bumps. It even makes a slight sound when braking hard and coming to a stop, as if something is sliding back and forth. I've checked and everything is bolted tight.

Any suggestions on where to look next? This issue is driving me NUTS!

[Sammy]

Originally Posted by shaman1204

OK, so I had the dreaded rear suspension clunk, worse on the passenger side than driver's side. Last December I had both rear lower control arms replaced by te dealership. Slight improvement, but the clunk was still there going over rough pavement and sharp bumps.

A couple weekends ago I replaced the rear track arms with debluzparts (sp?) adjustable rear track arms. Clunk is now almost nonexistent on the driver's side, but the passenger side now has more of a metal on metal sound when driving over rough pavement and sharp bumps. It even makes a slight sound when braking hard and coming to a stop, as if something is sliding back and forth. I've checked and everything is bolted tight.

Any suggestions on where to look next? This issue is driving me NUTS!

Make sure the nuts are tight on both ends of the drop links to the sway bar.

[Topless]

Sounds a little like a loose bowling ball in your trunk? Possibly a worn out front motor mount. Give it a look.

[RandallNeighbour]

Another thing to check is the three bolts on the top of the strut and the center nut as well. Access is done with the top in service position and the foam pulled back. You'll see it.

[shaman1204]

Great, thanks for the advice everyone.

Topless, is there an easy way to check the motor mount? Is it a visual inspection like looking for a torn bushing or something?

And Randall, I will check the strut bolts as well. If Sammy happens to be correct on the drop links, I came across a posting of yours where you mentioned you replaced yours in about 15 minutes per wheel. So this is a pretty easy DIY?

I am bound and determined to have a "quiet" car soon! :troll:

[Lil bastard]

Be careful with the strut nuts! The torque spec is only 24 ft.lbs. and they are very easy to snap off - be sure to use a torque wrench. Also, never loosen more than 1 at a time or you risk losing your camber setting.

[RandallNeighbour]

LB makes a great point. Don't get too enthusiastic. When my strut bolts were loose, I could see there was a 1/16th of an inch gap between the nut and the bodywork.

Drop links are really easy to change. I bought Deutche Products ones from eBay but another forum member said his didn't hold up a year before the rubber cracked on him so do your research and replace them with quality parts.

[Topless]

Originally Posted by shaman1204

Great, thanks for the advice everyone.

Topless, is there an easy way to check the motor mount? Is it a visual inspection like looking for a torn bushing or something?

It is difficult to see without removal. You can open the inspection hatch behind the seats and get in there with a strong light and a mirror. Or start the motor and rev a little and you can see the motor flopping around with engine torque. Here is a good DIY for more info:
http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site%203/Install%20Front%20Engine%20Mount.html

[shaman1204]

Well, finally got around to checking the strut bolts and all were good and tight. Replaced the drop links and it had no change in the noise. So, I'm now suspecting its the struts themselves. It's hard to believe they would be shot at 40k miles, but who knows.

Any other ideas, short of replacing the entire suspension? To date I have replaced the rear lower control arms, rear track arms and drop links. If I seriously have to put a lot more money into the suspension to quiet it, the line to trade the thing in is growing closer.

[Brad Roberts]

Rear shock mounts are blown out. Did *somebody* happen to install new shocks not too long ago? I'm not familiar with your car.

To check the engine mount..place a long prybar between the body mount and the engine mount. Lift or pull down depending on how you place the prybar. 99% of every street car I look at it BROKEN. Porsche knew there was a problem with them and changed the design for the later Boxsters and Caymans.

Mount as it is on your engine under the car:



BLOWN OUT Mount..



How it ALL begins...

[shaman1204]

[QUOTE=Brad Roberts]Rear shock mounts are blown out. Did *somebody* happen to install new shocks not too long ago? I'm not familiar with your car.

To check the engine mount..place a long prybar between the body mount and the engine mount. Lift or pull down depending on how you place the prybar. 99% of every street car I look at it BROKEN. Porsche knew there was a problem with them and changed the design for the later Boxsters and Caymans.

No one installed new shocks that I know of, they look original. I will have to check the motor mount as you suggested. Thanks for the input.

[kamran66]

Only one other place left to check..the motor mount.