Central Locking Issue

[maytag]

Boy could I really use some help here ..... hehehe

History: I've always been able to lock the doors with the fob, but I knew I had some wonky microswitches int he doors because the windows didn't behave correctly when opening/closing the doors.

Over the winter I replaced the door lock actuator on the driver's door. I followed 78F350's method and used the VW item (I purchased it on ebay) and everything seemed to go together fine. I THINK i tested all functions then, but ... maybe not. Maybe I just cheered that the window now worked correctly. But I have a really hard time imagining I didn't also try locking the doors. anyway.....

I also had the dashboard apart to do the A/C foam-door repair thing.

Today, I had my indy / race shop program me a new key, because I've only ever had one and I've always been worried about that. They took it down the road to the dealer and had it all programmed.

Now I'm home and I can't lock the doors. I push the button on the NEW fob and I occasionally get a single beep, but no lock. Neither does the LED on the lock/unlock button on the dash light up. The other FOB does NOTHING.

The Lock/Unlock button on the dash doesn't light-up at all, and pressing it does nothing.

My durametric shows codes 12 (Wrong Door Lock Module) and 61 (Central locking limit position Unlock not reached).

With the durametric I can lock the doors, and when I do the LED on the Lock/Unlock button comes on for me. But still nothing with the FOB.

I'm very, very confused.
My shop and I put each other through some paces over the last week (long story for another thread).... so I'm hesitant to simply call and tell them it's wrong until I think I've got a handle on it and understand what's going on. ('cuz this may be my fault)

So in short: locks work with durametric, not with the dash button or key fob. Codes 12 & 61.

Help?

[maytag]

Originally Posted by maytag

Boy could I really use some help here ..... hehehe

History: I've always been able to lock the doors with the fob, but I knew I had some wonky microswitches int he doors because the windows didn't behave correctly when opening/closing the doors.

Over the winter I replaced the door lock actuator on the driver's door. I followed 78F350's method and used the VW item (I purchased it on ebay) and everything seemed to go together fine. I THINK i tested all functions then, but ... maybe not. Maybe I just cheered that the window now worked correctly. But I have a really hard time imagining I didn't also try locking the doors. anyway.....

I also had the dashboard apart to do the A/C foam-door repair thing.

Today, I had my indy / race shop program me a new key, because I've only ever had one and I've always been worried about that. They took it down the road to the dealer and had it all programmed.

Now I'm home and I can't lock the doors. I push the button on the NEW fob and I occasionally get a single beep, but no lock. Neither does the LED on the lock/unlock button on the dash light up. The other FOB does NOTHING.

The Lock/Unlock button on the dash doesn't light-up at all, and pressing it does nothing.

My durametric shows codes 12 (Wrong Door Lock Module) and 61 (Central locking limit position Unlock not reached).

With the durametric I can lock the doors, and when I do the LED on the Lock/Unlock button comes on for me. But still nothing with the FOB.

I'm very, very confused.
My shop and I put each other through some paces over the last week (long story for another thread).... so I'm hesitant to simply call and tell them it's wrong until I think I've got a handle on it and understand what's going on. ('cuz this may be my fault)

So in short: locks work with durametric, not with the dash button or key fob. Codes 12 & 61.

Help?

[maytag]

update:
after ********************!ng with it some more, it seems I can lock the doors and arm the alarm by inserting the key in the drivers door lock and turning clockwise, twice. When I do that, the alarm light on the dash, and the central-locking button LED flash together, fast, for about 10 seconds, then a slow flash. Pressing the unlock button on the fob works to unlock and disarm, but then will not lock / arm again.

78F350, dood, did you have this issue with yours when you replaced with the VW door-lock actuator? 'cuz this i how I'm leaning at the moment.

grrr....

[78F350]

I've got some good news and some bad news. I'm pretty sure that your VW door latch is the problem. It turns out that they are electronically different from the Porsche part. I didn't realize that until the fix I posted had been used by millions of people spread across five continents (no known cases in Africa or Antarctica). ...I feel bad.
It can be fixed, by using the original Porsche latch electronics with the mechanical portion of the VW latch.

Here's the follow-up post:

Originally Posted by 78F350

Wow... I hardly ever lock my doors or use the window-down function with the key, so I never thought to thoroughly check that. Sorry for your trouble.

I have a 'new' car to fix now, so I will be doing this repair again soon. I'll detail it further when I get to it, but here's the basics:
The latches that I have seen failed were worn out where the microswitch contacts the mechanical door latch - The switch was still good, but the latch didn't push it enough.
I'm going to take the mechanical portion of a new, cheap VW latch and swap it onto the old Porsche part.
Just two screws and a little gentle prying.




Generally, all the moving parts of the cheap ones can be swapped over to the old ones as needed. On the particular one I have on my desk, the mounting holes for the microswitch are spaced slightly different, but can be 'adjusted' or forced. I'll probably just solder the new switch on.

[78F350]

If you find any place where the VW latch swap is recommended, let me know and I'll add the follow-up.
If you need the electronic part of a Porsche latch to fix your issue, let me know and I may still have one or two spares around.

[maytag]

Originally Posted by 78F350

I've got some good news and some bad news. I'm pretty sure that your VW door latch is the problem. It turns out that they are electronically different from the Porsche part. I didn't realize that until the fix I posted had been used by millions of people spread across five continents (no known cases in Africa or Antarctica). ...I feel bad.
It can be fixed, by using the original Porsche latch electronics with the mechanical portion of the VW latch.

Here's the follow-up post:

Oh dood..... you're such a stud, man. You just saved me (I hope) many hours of stress and worry. Thank you.

I'll admit that every time in my life that I've come across one of these types of ideas on my own, and everybody wants me to do it for them .... I'm reticent. Always. Because this kind of thing happens, and SOMEBODY, eventually, will get mad about it. Haha.
Not me. I know the risks. And I appreciate guys who innovate, like you.

So thank you. Twice. (Once for the idea, and once for the notice about it ;-) )

I found your video on YouTube. You've probably added a note there..... but I really didn't watch the whole thing; I scanned until you listed the part number and then I went all maverick. If you're really worried about it you might edit the video with a caption or something. (Which I probably would've ignored anyway)

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[maytag]

Originally Posted by 78F350

If you find any place where the VW latch swap is recommended, let me know and I'll add the follow-up.
If you need the electronic part of a Porsche latch to fix your issue, let me know and I may still have one or two spares around.

It looks like I threw-out the old door lock mechanism. If you have something kicking-around, let's look at it. But I might decide to bite the bullet and get the OEM item. :dance:

[78F350]

I'll ship this to you for $15.


Driver's side electronic portion of latch from an '01.
You'll have to swap it with that portion of the VW latch including the micro-switch which may need minor re-fitting.

[maytag]

Originally Posted by 78F350

I'll ship this to you for $15.





Driver's side electronic portion of latch from an '01.

You'll have to swap it with that portion of the VW latch including the micro-switch which may need minor re-fitting.

You're a good man. But I ordered a used OEM item that the seller promises me is working. (Now that I know the failure mode, i can check before installation)

Thank you!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[Qmulus]

The issue with swapping the Porsche electrical part with the replacement mechanical part is the electrical part is where 90% of the failures are. That external microswitch fails (most common failure) along with the switches, soldering and sometimes the locking motor. So, swapping those parts over to another mechanical assembly will likely just transfer the problems.

If you have the Chinese replacement, I would use it for parts. In my experience, the quality of those is hit or miss. I would take it apart, de-solder the external microswitch and transfer it to the circuit board in your original. Then resolder all the contacts on your original board and clean it all up. Chances are you will be good for another 10 years.

Oh, the Porsche door latch is the same as that used by '00-'05 Audi TTs (don't bother with used ones, those fail just like in the Porsche and maybe worse) and shares "guts" with a few others so you can use various latches for parts. BTDT.

[sbetz]

I can attest to this fix. I bought a set of replacement VW door locks with 9 pins that fit perfectly but did not lock/unlock with switch or remote. I swapped the mechanical new parts onto the electronic from the original and WOW - I have locking doors for the first time since I've owned the car. I did have to switch out the spring loaded slide mechanism that mechanically locks/unlocks because the cheap VW part had a plastic part where the original was metal (see photo) -- used the metal piece from the old and it works great

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by Qmulus

... resolder all the contacts on your original board and clean it all up. Chances are you will be good for another 10 years...

I had intermittent problems with my passenger side window and found a cracked solder joint on the PCB of the latch. Touching up the solder fixed it. I wish that I had known this a couple of months ago, would have saved a lot of chasing around.

[PLP]

I am getting annoyed...
Is it this car or Porsche in general?
I just need to vent.

Urgh.

Anyway, I am happy to find this solution.
I am pissed as I need to open the doors again and it is COLD!!! And snowy!!
And I was going to put the car away to storage so that I could finally park the other ones inside.
Urgh. More work...

[PLP]

OK, problem resolved.

A WARNING for anyone who would like to do BOTH doors at the same time.
Do one side at a time... or you can f... it up as I did
Turns out that the switches are assigned to sides. I did not realise that when I was switching electronics. Sure, the whole assembly is easy to navigate (no mistakes there), but then we have the microswitches to resolder to the old electronics.
And if you cut them (both sides) at the same time then you can grab the wrong one.

Just took me 5x the time it should have.

All works as designed.

With one weird thing.


Turn signal blinks.

Now, when I lock the car I get a turn signal double blink and when I unlock - single. And no horn beeps.

Before it would lock quietly and unlock with one beep. No blinkers (hazards) feedback. Or maybe one short one.


Could someone tell me what is the proper feedback from the car?
I know the beeps have some meaning, like single vs double.

[randy328]

Locking and unlocking with no beeps is correct. Locking should be a double flash, unlocking single flash. I don't see anywhere in the manual where unlocking produces a beep, only during locking to indicate an issue or when you want the infrared monitoring off.

[PLP]

Originally Posted by randy328

Locking and unlocking with no beeps is correct. Locking should be a double flash, unlocking single flash. I don't see anywhere in the manual where unlocking produces a beep, only during locking to indicate an issue or when you want the infrared monitoring off.

Thanks!
Maybe it was related to the passenger side and microswitch mechanism not working... because the electronics is the same.

[JFP in PA]

These cars should not make a peep when locking if everything is correct. If the car does beep, scan it with a Porsche specific scan tool and the alarm system will show a list of the last ten faults stored in the system, allowing you to pinpoint the problem.

[PLP]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

These cars should not make a peep when locking if everything is correct. If the car does beep, scan it with a Porsche specific scan tool and the alarm system will show a list of the last ten faults stored in the system, allowing you to pinpoint the problem.

It used to beep when ulocking.
One, single beep. But no hazards feedback.

Now, it is quiet with hazard flashes. Double lock, single unlock.
It seems it works as designed now, but I am puzzled why... Is it the door lock only? Culprit I was not aware of?
Weird...
I just hate not knowing what the issue is/was.