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Old 03-03-2020, 04:42 PM   #1
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Central Locking Issue

Boy could I really use some help here ..... hehehe

History: I've always been able to lock the doors with the fob, but I knew I had some wonky microswitches int he doors because the windows didn't behave correctly when opening/closing the doors.

Over the winter I replaced the door lock actuator on the driver's door. I followed 78F350's method and used the VW item (I purchased it on ebay) and everything seemed to go together fine. I THINK i tested all functions then, but ... maybe not. Maybe I just cheered that the window now worked correctly. But I have a really hard time imagining I didn't also try locking the doors. anyway.....

I also had the dashboard apart to do the A/C foam-door repair thing.

Today, I had my indy / race shop program me a new key, because I've only ever had one and I've always been worried about that. They took it down the road to the dealer and had it all programmed.

Now I'm home and I can't lock the doors. I push the button on the NEW fob and I occasionally get a single beep, but no lock. Neither does the LED on the lock/unlock button on the dash light up. The other FOB does NOTHING.

The Lock/Unlock button on the dash doesn't light-up at all, and pressing it does nothing.

My durametric shows codes 12 (Wrong Door Lock Module) and 61 (Central locking limit position Unlock not reached).

With the durametric I can lock the doors, and when I do the LED on the Lock/Unlock button comes on for me. But still nothing with the FOB.

I'm very, very confused.
My shop and I put each other through some paces over the last week (long story for another thread).... so I'm hesitant to simply call and tell them it's wrong until I think I've got a handle on it and understand what's going on. ('cuz this may be my fault)

So in short: locks work with durametric, not with the dash button or key fob. Codes 12 & 61.

Help?

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Old 03-03-2020, 04:48 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maytag View Post
Boy could I really use some help here ..... hehehe

History: I've always been able to lock the doors with the fob, but I knew I had some wonky microswitches int he doors because the windows didn't behave correctly when opening/closing the doors.

Over the winter I replaced the door lock actuator on the driver's door. I followed 78F350's method and used the VW item (I purchased it on ebay) and everything seemed to go together fine. I THINK i tested all functions then, but ... maybe not. Maybe I just cheered that the window now worked correctly. But I have a really hard time imagining I didn't also try locking the doors. anyway.....

I also had the dashboard apart to do the A/C foam-door repair thing.

Today, I had my indy / race shop program me a new key, because I've only ever had one and I've always been worried about that. They took it down the road to the dealer and had it all programmed.

Now I'm home and I can't lock the doors. I push the button on the NEW fob and I occasionally get a single beep, but no lock. Neither does the LED on the lock/unlock button on the dash light up. The other FOB does NOTHING.

The Lock/Unlock button on the dash doesn't light-up at all, and pressing it does nothing.

My durametric shows codes 12 (Wrong Door Lock Module) and 61 (Central locking limit position Unlock not reached).

With the durametric I can lock the doors, and when I do the LED on the Lock/Unlock button comes on for me. But still nothing with the FOB.

I'm very, very confused.
My shop and I put each other through some paces over the last week (long story for another thread).... so I'm hesitant to simply call and tell them it's wrong until I think I've got a handle on it and understand what's going on. ('cuz this may be my fault)

So in short: locks work with durametric, not with the dash button or key fob. Codes 12 & 61.

Help?

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Old 03-03-2020, 05:07 PM   #3
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update:
after ********************!ng with it some more, it seems I can lock the doors and arm the alarm by inserting the key in the drivers door lock and turning clockwise, twice. When I do that, the alarm light on the dash, and the central-locking button LED flash together, fast, for about 10 seconds, then a slow flash. Pressing the unlock button on the fob works to unlock and disarm, but then will not lock / arm again.

78F350, dood, did you have this issue with yours when you replaced with the VW door-lock actuator? 'cuz this i how I'm leaning at the moment.

grrr....
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Old 03-04-2020, 04:41 AM   #4
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I've got some good news and some bad news. I'm pretty sure that your VW door latch is the problem. It turns out that they are electronically different from the Porsche part. I didn't realize that until the fix I posted had been used by millions of people spread across five continents (no known cases in Africa or Antarctica). ...I feel bad.
It can be fixed, by using the original Porsche latch electronics with the mechanical portion of the VW latch.

Here's the follow-up post:
Quote:
Originally Posted by 78F350 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JavPit View Post
So just a word of caution with these Ebay door latches. I just replaced my drivers side door to fix the window drop issue and, while it fixed the window drop, it made a whole lot of other things go crazy. My passenger door would not unlock, the alarm chirped at any turn of the key in the door lock, and when I tried to put the windows down using the door lock they went up! I put the original back in and everything worked properly again except of course the window problem.

I used a VW part 3D1837015AB as suggested.
Wow... I hardly ever lock my doors or use the window-down function with the key, so I never thought to thoroughly check that. Sorry for your trouble.

I have a 'new' car to fix now, so I will be doing this repair again soon. I'll detail it further when I get to it, but here's the basics:
The latches that I have seen failed were worn out where the microswitch contacts the mechanical door latch - The switch was still good, but the latch didn't push it enough.
I'm going to take the mechanical portion of a new, cheap VW latch and swap it onto the old Porsche part.
Just two screws and a little gentle prying.




Generally, all the moving parts of the cheap ones can be swapped over to the old ones as needed. On the particular one I have on my desk, the mounting holes for the microswitch are spaced slightly different, but can be 'adjusted' or forced. I'll probably just solder the new switch on.
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Old 03-04-2020, 04:49 AM   #5
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If you find any place where the VW latch swap is recommended, let me know and I'll add the follow-up.
If you need the electronic part of a Porsche latch to fix your issue, let me know and I may still have one or two spares around.
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Old 03-04-2020, 05:27 AM   #6
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Quote:
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I've got some good news and some bad news. I'm pretty sure that your VW door latch is the problem. It turns out that they are electronically different from the Porsche part. I didn't realize that until the fix I posted had been used by millions of people spread across five continents (no known cases in Africa or Antarctica). ...I feel bad.
It can be fixed, by using the original Porsche latch electronics with the mechanical portion of the VW latch.

Here's the follow-up post:
Oh dood..... you're such a stud, man. You just saved me (I hope) many hours of stress and worry. Thank you.

I'll admit that every time in my life that I've come across one of these types of ideas on my own, and everybody wants me to do it for them .... I'm reticent. Always. Because this kind of thing happens, and SOMEBODY, eventually, will get mad about it. Haha.
Not me. I know the risks. And I appreciate guys who innovate, like you.

So thank you. Twice. (Once for the idea, and once for the notice about it ;-) )

I found your video on YouTube. You've probably added a note there..... but I really didn't watch the whole thing; I scanned until you listed the part number and then I went all maverick. If you're really worried about it you might edit the video with a caption or something. (Which I probably would've ignored anyway)

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Old 03-04-2020, 08:01 AM   #7
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If you find any place where the VW latch swap is recommended, let me know and I'll add the follow-up.
If you need the electronic part of a Porsche latch to fix your issue, let me know and I may still have one or two spares around.
It looks like I threw-out the old door lock mechanism. If you have something kicking-around, let's look at it. But I might decide to bite the bullet and get the OEM item.
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Old 03-04-2020, 12:57 PM   #8
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I'll ship this to you for $15.


Driver's side electronic portion of latch from an '01.
You'll have to swap it with that portion of the VW latch including the micro-switch which may need minor re-fitting.
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Old 03-04-2020, 07:52 PM   #9
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I'll ship this to you for $15.





Driver's side electronic portion of latch from an '01.

You'll have to swap it with that portion of the VW latch including the micro-switch which may need minor re-fitting.
You're a good man. But I ordered a used OEM item that the seller promises me is working. (Now that I know the failure mode, i can check before installation)

Thank you!

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Old 03-05-2020, 07:39 AM   #10
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The issue with swapping the Porsche electrical part with the replacement mechanical part is the electrical part is where 90% of the failures are. That external microswitch fails (most common failure) along with the switches, soldering and sometimes the locking motor. So, swapping those parts over to another mechanical assembly will likely just transfer the problems.

If you have the Chinese replacement, I would use it for parts. In my experience, the quality of those is hit or miss. I would take it apart, de-solder the external microswitch and transfer it to the circuit board in your original. Then resolder all the contacts on your original board and clean it all up. Chances are you will be good for another 10 years.

Oh, the Porsche door latch is the same as that used by '00-'05 Audi TTs (don't bother with used ones, those fail just like in the Porsche and maybe worse) and shares "guts" with a few others so you can use various latches for parts. BTDT.

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Last edited by Qmulus; 03-05-2020 at 07:41 AM.
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