Go Back   986 Forum - for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners > Porsche Boxster & Cayman Forums > Performance and Technical chat

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-31-2018, 06:13 PM   #1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 624
Garage
Clutch Job Underway

I started my clutch job tonight. In less then two hours I have the plates and support bar out. Shift cables disconnected. The slave, reverse light and axles are still connected. The clamp bolts for the exhaust are soaking in PB Blaster. The nuts are rusted and even a flare nut wrench is not fitting tight. They are going to be a problem. I wish it was possible to slide the tranny back without removing the Dansk Muffler. It would save my knuckles.

__________________
"YouTube Certified in Various Specialties"
BFeller is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2018, 07:30 PM   #2
Registered User
 
911monty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: California Central Coast
Posts: 1,316
Garage
Don't even waste time with rusted crap. Use a nut splitter, see attached for an example. Split the nut, throw the rusted crap out and replace with new. Easy.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200396173_200396173?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Hand%20Tools%20%3E%20Extractors&utm_campaign=Performance%20Tool&utm_content=9094281&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvLK_9PPK3AIVDwaGCh1tyw7CEAQYAiAB EgIE1PD_BwE
911monty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2018, 04:11 PM   #3
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 624
Garage
The muffler cam out with only one bolt breaking. Did not have to remove the cats. I was able to loosen the muffler clamps near the u pipe and slide them towards the muffler and rotate it right down and out. I read that trick somewhere on here. New clamps are cheap and available at Pelican. I will order replacement clamps with my other parts.
__________________
"YouTube Certified in Various Specialties"

Last edited by BFeller; 08-02-2018 at 05:00 AM.
BFeller is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2018, 06:44 PM   #4
Lew
So Blessed!
 
Lew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: SE Georgia
Posts: 389
Garage
Talking

Make sure you order the correct Horse clamps. You know they come packed in Hay.



The Devil made me do this!
__________________
Artic Silver Boxster S - Black Leather - Black Top - Convience Plus Package
Lew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2018, 06:52 PM   #5
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 624
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lew View Post
Make sure you order the correct Horse clamps. You know they come packed in Hay.



The Devil made me do this!
Pelican actually has Dansk muffler clamps on the website.

On a second note it appears I am not the first to do a clutch job. I think the bolts listed as g and h in common diagram for tracking their location appear to be missing. I have to research that to confirm it.

The third note is it will be cool if they did the IMS bearing when/if the clutch was done.

https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/37-TRANS-Drop/images_small/Pic4.jpg
__________________
"YouTube Certified in Various Specialties"

Last edited by BFeller; 08-01-2018 at 06:57 PM.
BFeller is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2018, 12:07 PM   #6
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 624
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lew View Post
Make sure you order the correct Horse clamps. You know they come packed in Hay.



The Devil made me do this!
It took me a few days to see the autocorrect on my iPad adding horse to the clamp.
__________________
"YouTube Certified in Various Specialties"
BFeller is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2018, 12:18 PM   #7
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 624
Garage
The transmission is out. There was only one bolt missing. It was G. I had a time trying to get the tranny free until I found out the nut on the stud H is on the opposite side of the tranny. Once that was free so was the tranny.

I found pieces of the clutch disc in the bellhousing. This job came about because of a weird shifiting issue a few weeks ago. The clutch pedal fell free, I could not shift and the smell of burning clutch was in the air. The clutch disc was worn to the rivets on the pressure plate side, to the rivets. A chunk came off. I surmise it stuck between the disc and plate. The side to the flywheel was not to the rivets. However, the flywheel rotates with a single finger and does not seem to spring back. Earlier this week I ordered a super kit from Pelican. It is and was going to be replaced no matter the condition. It does however seem the replacement is needed. Pulling the flywheel is going to be another day, I need to fab a flywheel lock.

Then I will clean it up and look at the IMSB cover. I stongly lean towards replacing it. It ought to be dual row. However, I am in there. I have the funds. I always intended to replace it at clutch time. And if I had gotten the estimates I sought from a few independents, they would be doing it. My cam deviations appeared to be in spec. I use the guardian system on the car. It has never alerted. The oil pan was clean and the filters always checked out clean. I hate to spring for the tools. But it seems like the responsible thing to do
__________________
"YouTube Certified in Various Specialties"
BFeller is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2018, 01:30 PM   #8
Lew
So Blessed!
 
Lew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: SE Georgia
Posts: 389
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by BFeller View Post
The transmission is out. There was only one bolt missing. It was G. I had a time trying to get the tranny free until I found out the nut on the stud H is on the opposite side of the tranny. Once that was free so was the tranny.

I found pieces of the clutch disc in the bellhousing. This job came about because of a weird shifiting issue a few weeks ago. The clutch pedal fell free, I could not shift and the smell of burning clutch was in the air. The clutch disc was worn to the rivets on the pressure plate side, to the rivets. A chunk came off. I surmise it stuck between the disc and plate. The side to the flywheel was not to the rivets. However, the flywheel rotates with a single finger and does not seem to spring back. Earlier this week I ordered a super kit from Pelican. It is and was going to be replaced no matter the condition. It does however seem the replacement is needed. Pulling the flywheel is going to be another day, I need to fab a flywheel lock.

Then I will clean it up and look at the IMSB cover. I stongly lean towards replacing it. It ought to be dual row. However, I am in there. I have the funds. I always intended to replace it at clutch time. And if I had gotten the estimates I sought from a few independents, they would be doing it. My cam deviations appeared to be in spec. I use the guardian system on the car. It has never alerted. The oil pan was clean and the filters always checked out clean. I hate to spring for the tools. But it seems like the responsible thing to do

Would you report back on the release bearing and it's wear. Did you ever hear any rattling noise when shutting down the engine with the clutch out, and is your release bearing rusty? I have a rattling noise, but only when the clutch is out, but no rattling noise when the clutch is depressed shutting down the engine. A Porsche Dealership Tech recently told me when there picking up a part it could be the throw out bearing rusty. He ruled out the DMF.




Thanks!
__________________
Artic Silver Boxster S - Black Leather - Black Top - Convience Plus Package

Last edited by Lew; 08-04-2018 at 01:34 PM.
Lew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2018, 05:33 PM   #9
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 624
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lew View Post
Would you report back on the release bearing and it's wear. Did you ever hear any rattling noise when shutting down the engine with the clutch out, and is your release bearing rusty? I have a rattling noise, but only when the clutch is out, but no rattling noise when the clutch is depressed shutting down the engine. A Porsche Dealership Tech recently told me when there picking up a part it could be the throw out bearing rusty. He ruled out the DMF.




Thanks!
I did not remember hearing any rattling or other odd noise coming fro:the engine bay (other than a little chain rattle if the engine has set for a long time. The clutch bearing spins free. The main shaft was dry. The bearing was dry, but not rusty. Once the new one arrives, I give you some feedback concerning play old verses new.
__________________
"YouTube Certified in Various Specialties"
BFeller is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2018, 10:18 AM   #10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sanford NC
Posts: 2,377
Doesn't LN rent tool sets? I seem to recall Charles saying something about that.
mikefocke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2018, 12:39 PM   #11
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 624
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefocke View Post
Doesn't LN rent tool sets? I seem to recall Charles saying something about that.
I have been on their website. The best I can glean is that they offer a 30 day rental (includ8ng the faultless RMS tool) with a refundable deposit if you buy the Solution. I did not see the same offer for the other options.
__________________
"YouTube Certified in Various Specialties"
BFeller is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2018, 10:19 AM   #12
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 624
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by BFeller View Post
I have been on their website. The best I can glean is that they offer a 30 day rental (includ8ng the faultless RMS tool) with a refundable deposit if you buy the Solution. I did not see the same offer for the other options.
ď....or even our free IMS tool rental service offered with purchase of the IMS Solution, including the rear main seal RMS tool rental.Ē

That is from this page/link:
https://lnengineering.com/products/ims-bearing-installation-tools.html
__________________
"YouTube Certified in Various Specialties"
BFeller is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2018, 05:40 PM   #13
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 624
Garage
Dropped the flywheel. Well, removed. The rear main is definitely leaking. It will be changed. Confirmed a dual row. I am going to put in the LN Retrofit.
__________________
"YouTube Certified in Various Specialties"
BFeller is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2018, 01:33 PM   #14
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 624
Garage
I had a little trouble lining up the cam lock. Made a second one. I locked down both cams even though I have a five chain motor. I marked the locations of the cams. Then pulled the three chain tensioners. I was able to remove the one under the air conditioned without removing anything. I have a tool set for installing timing belts. It has a flat bar with a 1/2 socket holder on it. It was tedious without any ratcheting action, however the tensioner came out slowly. I then removed the others as described in the LN instructions. After checking the cams to see that nothing moved, pulled the IMSB cover. Checked my cams again and extracted the bearing and smashed my thumb nail easily. The dual row retainer poppping free caught me with my hand in a bad position. I have a little color under the nail. The bearing looks better than my thumb. Cleaning up and stopping for the day.
__________________
"YouTube Certified in Various Specialties"

Last edited by BFeller; 08-11-2018 at 01:39 PM.
BFeller is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2018, 06:30 PM   #15
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 624
Garage
I posted a question about a torque value for chain tensioners in another thread. I thought to add part of my response to this one. I opted to replace the tensioners since they were out. Which lead to this information:

... if anyone wants to know, the new upper right tensioner uses a 14 mm allen head. The old one was a 32 mm hex. I bought an Allen head socket and drove the Allen head outfoxed the socket. That left me with a 14mm Allen head just like that 12 point/triple square to phe trans, but an Allen head. It fit right into a 9/16 box wrench/socket. So it installed then tensioner without having to remove the air compressor. So removal and installing the tensioner was a breeze - no removal of the compressor required.

At this point, I have a new LN Bearing installed. Everything in the IMS is installed. The chain tenesioners need to be torqued. Then I can remover the cam locks and rotate the engine and check/verify the chains did not jump. A new oil pump spring was also installed. I am not in rush and have been taking my time. Working when the weather is cooperating as far as the heat waves.
__________________
"YouTube Certified in Various Specialties"
BFeller is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2018, 05:34 AM   #16
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Fulshear, TX
Posts: 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by BFeller View Post
I posted a question about a torque value for chain tensioners in another thread. I thought to add part of my response to this one. I opted to replace the tensioners since they were out. Which lead to this information:

... if anyone wants to know, the new upper right tensioner uses a 14 mm allen head. The old one was a 32 mm hex. I bought an Allen head socket and drove the Allen head outfoxed the socket. That left me with a 14mm Allen head just like that 12 point/triple square to phe trans, but an Allen head. It fit right into a 9/16 box wrench/socket. So it installed then tensioner without having to remove the air compressor. So removal and installing the tensioner was a breeze - no removal of the compressor required.

At this point, I have a new LN Bearing installed. Everything in the IMS is installed. The chain tenesioners need to be torqued. Then I can remover the cam locks and rotate the engine and check/verify the chains did not jump. A new oil pump spring was also installed. I am not in rush and have been taking my time. Working when the weather is cooperating as far as the heat waves.
Thanks for posting this. If I ever have to replace the upper right tensioner this is a big help. I replaced all three of mine when I did the clutch/IMS/RMS job and that tensioner was biggest pain because of needing to move the A/C compressor.
dsallean is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2018, 06:02 PM   #17
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 624
Garage
The new flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disc are installed. Next up is to install the transmission.
__________________
"YouTube Certified in Various Specialties"
BFeller is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2018, 07:26 PM   #18
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 624
Garage
The transmission is in and bolted and torqued in place. The clutch slave and backup light are connected. The axle bolts are attached but not torqued. The shift cables were reattached and zip toed for extra insurance to keep them from popping out of the brackets.

As the transmission got close, I held one out put shaft and rotated the other one to get the input shaft aligned. The tranny wa within a quarter inch as I carefull tightened the bolts. They spun almost completely in with just my hand on socket and extension. I was able to torque the top most bolt from the rear of the car.

We had some fall weather and I didnít even break a sweat getting the work done tonight. Hopefully tomorrow will be cool.
__________________
"YouTube Certified in Various Specialties"
BFeller is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2018, 04:30 PM   #19
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 624
Garage
The car is back together and running. At first it had a tick. Could have been the lifters pumping up after sitting dry for nearly a month. Or it could have been those two muffler clamps that did not get tightened before the 1st start. I tightened those up after the first run around the block in first and second. Then took it for a longer @ 4 Mile Drive. Upon return the ticking has stopped.

Time to get 500 miles on it and then change the oil. Unfortunately the wires leading to my Guardian Plug have broken, so no Guardian to monitor metal in the engine. I am going to have to rely solely on the oil changes and filter inspections. It a shame, I really liked the piece of mind of the Guardian. I am going to make a call Monday. I don’t think the sell them anymore and I am way out of any warranty period.
__________________
"YouTube Certified in Various Specialties"
BFeller is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2018, 06:28 AM   #20
2003 S, Arctic Silver, M6
 
paulofto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Posts: 1,090
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by BFeller View Post
Unfortunately the wires leading to my Guardian Plug have broken, so no Guardian to monitor metal in the engine. I am going to have to rely solely on the oil changes and filter inspections. It a shame, I really liked the piece of mind of the Guardian. I am going to make a call Monday. I donít think the sell them anymore and I am way out of any warranty period.
I went through 2 Guardians for the same reason. The wires coming out of the plug frayed and tore making the units useless. They are unrepairable and even if a third was available I wouldn't get one unless there was vast improvement in the construction.

Frequent oil changes and filter inspection is it from now on.

paulofto is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:52 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page