Clutch Job Underway

[BFeller]

I started my clutch job tonight. In less then two hours I have the plates and support bar out. Shift cables disconnected. The slave, reverse light and axles are still connected. The clamp bolts for the exhaust are soaking in PB Blaster. The nuts are rusted and even a flare nut wrench is not fitting tight. They are going to be a problem. I wish it was possible to slide the tranny back without removing the Dansk Muffler. It would save my knuckles.

[911monty]

Don't even waste time with rusted crap. Use a nut splitter, see attached for an example. Split the nut, throw the rusted crap out and replace with new. Easy.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200396173_200396173?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Hand%20Tools%20%3E%20Extractors&utm_campaign=Performance%20Tool&utm_content=9094281&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvLK_9PPK3AIVDwaGCh1tyw7CEAQYAiAB EgIE1PD_BwE

[BFeller]

The muffler cam out with only one bolt breaking. Did not have to remove the cats. I was able to loosen the muffler clamps near the u pipe and slide them towards the muffler and rotate it right down and out. I read that trick somewhere on here. New clamps are cheap and available at Pelican. I will order replacement clamps with my other parts.

[Lew]

Make sure you order the correct Horse clamps. You know they come packed in Hay.



The Devil made me do this!

[BFeller]

Originally Posted by Lew

Make sure you order the correct Horse clamps. You know they come packed in Hay.



The Devil made me do this!

Pelican actually has Dansk muffler clamps on the website.

On a second note it appears I am not the first to do a clutch job. I think the bolts listed as g and h in common diagram for tracking their location appear to be missing. I have to research that to confirm it.

The third note is it will be cool if they did the IMS bearing when/if the clutch was done.

https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/37-TRANS-Drop/images_small/Pic4.jpg

[BFeller]

Originally Posted by Lew

Make sure you order the correct Horse clamps. You know they come packed in Hay.



The Devil made me do this!

It took me a few days to see the autocorrect on my iPad adding horse to the clamp.

[BFeller]

The transmission is out. There was only one bolt missing. It was G. I had a time trying to get the tranny free until I found out the nut on the stud H is on the opposite side of the tranny. Once that was free so was the tranny.

I found pieces of the clutch disc in the bellhousing. This job came about because of a weird shifiting issue a few weeks ago. The clutch pedal fell free, I could not shift and the smell of burning clutch was in the air. The clutch disc was worn to the rivets on the pressure plate side, to the rivets. A chunk came off. I surmise it stuck between the disc and plate. The side to the flywheel was not to the rivets. However, the flywheel rotates with a single finger and does not seem to spring back. Earlier this week I ordered a super kit from Pelican. It is and was going to be replaced no matter the condition. It does however seem the replacement is needed. Pulling the flywheel is going to be another day, I need to fab a flywheel lock.

Then I will clean it up and look at the IMSB cover. I stongly lean towards replacing it. It ought to be dual row. However, I am in there. I have the funds. I always intended to replace it at clutch time. And if I had gotten the estimates I sought from a few independents, they would be doing it. My cam deviations appeared to be in spec. I use the guardian system on the car. It has never alerted. The oil pan was clean and the filters always checked out clean. I hate to spring for the tools. But it seems like the responsible thing to do

[Lew]

Originally Posted by BFeller

The transmission is out. There was only one bolt missing. It was G. I had a time trying to get the tranny free until I found out the nut on the stud H is on the opposite side of the tranny. Once that was free so was the tranny.

I found pieces of the clutch disc in the bellhousing. This job came about because of a weird shifiting issue a few weeks ago. The clutch pedal fell free, I could not shift and the smell of burning clutch was in the air. The clutch disc was worn to the rivets on the pressure plate side, to the rivets. A chunk came off. I surmise it stuck between the disc and plate. The side to the flywheel was not to the rivets. However, the flywheel rotates with a single finger and does not seem to spring back. Earlier this week I ordered a super kit from Pelican. It is and was going to be replaced no matter the condition. It does however seem the replacement is needed. Pulling the flywheel is going to be another day, I need to fab a flywheel lock.

Then I will clean it up and look at the IMSB cover. I stongly lean towards replacing it. It ought to be dual row. However, I am in there. I have the funds. I always intended to replace it at clutch time. And if I had gotten the estimates I sought from a few independents, they would be doing it. My cam deviations appeared to be in spec. I use the guardian system on the car. It has never alerted. The oil pan was clean and the filters always checked out clean. I hate to spring for the tools. But it seems like the responsible thing to do

Would you report back on the release bearing and it's wear. Did you ever hear any rattling noise when shutting down the engine with the clutch out, and is your release bearing rusty? I have a rattling noise, but only when the clutch is out, but no rattling noise when the clutch is depressed shutting down the engine. A Porsche Dealership Tech recently told me when there picking up a part it could be the throw out bearing rusty. He ruled out the DMF.




Thanks!

[BFeller]

Originally Posted by Lew

Would you report back on the release bearing and it's wear. Did you ever hear any rattling noise when shutting down the engine with the clutch out, and is your release bearing rusty? I have a rattling noise, but only when the clutch is out, but no rattling noise when the clutch is depressed shutting down the engine. A Porsche Dealership Tech recently told me when there picking up a part it could be the throw out bearing rusty. He ruled out the DMF.




Thanks!

I did not remember hearing any rattling or other odd noise coming fro:the engine bay (other than a little chain rattle if the engine has set for a long time. The clutch bearing spins free. The main shaft was dry. The bearing was dry, but not rusty. Once the new one arrives, I give you some feedback concerning play old verses new.

[mikefocke]

Doesn't LN rent tool sets? I seem to recall Charles saying something about that.

[BFeller]

Originally Posted by mikefocke

Doesn't LN rent tool sets? I seem to recall Charles saying something about that.

I have been on their website. The best I can glean is that they offer a 30 day rental (includ8ng the faultless RMS tool) with a refundable deposit if you buy the Solution. I did not see the same offer for the other options.

[BFeller]

Originally Posted by BFeller

I have been on their website. The best I can glean is that they offer a 30 day rental (includ8ng the faultless RMS tool) with a refundable deposit if you buy the Solution. I did not see the same offer for the other options.

“....or even our free IMS tool rental service offered with purchase of the IMS Solution, including the rear main seal RMS tool rental.”

That is from this page/link:
https://lnengineering.com/products/ims-bearing-installation-tools.html

[BFeller]

Dropped the flywheel. Well, removed. The rear main is definitely leaking. It will be changed. Confirmed a dual row. I am going to put in the LN Retrofit.

[BFeller]

I had a little trouble lining up the cam lock. Made a second one. I locked down both cams even though I have a five chain motor. I marked the locations of the cams. Then pulled the three chain tensioners. I was able to remove the one under the air conditioned without removing anything. I have a tool set for installing timing belts. It has a flat bar with a 1/2 socket holder on it. It was tedious without any ratcheting action, however the tensioner came out slowly. I then removed the others as described in the LN instructions. After checking the cams to see that nothing moved, pulled the IMSB cover. Checked my cams again and extracted the bearing and smashed my thumb nail easily. The dual row retainer poppping free caught me with my hand in a bad position. I have a little color under the nail. The bearing looks better than my thumb. Cleaning up and stopping for the day.

[BFeller]

I posted a question about a torque value for chain tensioners in another thread. I thought to add part of my response to this one. I opted to replace the tensioners since they were out. Which lead to this information:

... if anyone wants to know, the new upper right tensioner uses a 14 mm allen head. The old one was a 32 mm hex. I bought an Allen head socket and drove the Allen head outfoxed the socket. That left me with a 14mm Allen head just like that 12 point/triple square to phe trans, but an Allen head. It fit right into a 9/16 box wrench/socket. So it installed then tensioner without having to remove the air compressor. So removal and installing the tensioner was a breeze - no removal of the compressor required.

At this point, I have a new LN Bearing installed. Everything in the IMS is installed. The chain tenesioners need to be torqued. Then I can remover the cam locks and rotate the engine and check/verify the chains did not jump. A new oil pump spring was also installed. I am not in rush and have been taking my time. Working when the weather is cooperating as far as the heat waves.

[dsallean]

Originally Posted by BFeller

I posted a question about a torque value for chain tensioners in another thread. I thought to add part of my response to this one. I opted to replace the tensioners since they were out. Which lead to this information:

... if anyone wants to know, the new upper right tensioner uses a 14 mm allen head. The old one was a 32 mm hex. I bought an Allen head socket and drove the Allen head outfoxed the socket. That left me with a 14mm Allen head just like that 12 point/triple square to phe trans, but an Allen head. It fit right into a 9/16 box wrench/socket. So it installed then tensioner without having to remove the air compressor. So removal and installing the tensioner was a breeze - no removal of the compressor required.

At this point, I have a new LN Bearing installed. Everything in the IMS is installed. The chain tenesioners need to be torqued. Then I can remover the cam locks and rotate the engine and check/verify the chains did not jump. A new oil pump spring was also installed. I am not in rush and have been taking my time. Working when the weather is cooperating as far as the heat waves.

Thanks for posting this. If I ever have to replace the upper right tensioner this is a big help. I replaced all three of mine when I did the clutch/IMS/RMS job and that tensioner was biggest pain because of needing to move the A/C compressor.

[BFeller]

The new flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disc are installed. Next up is to install the transmission.

[BFeller]

The transmission is in and bolted and torqued in place. The clutch slave and backup light are connected. The axle bolts are attached but not torqued. The shift cables were reattached and zip toed for extra insurance to keep them from popping out of the brackets.

As the transmission got close, I held one out put shaft and rotated the other one to get the input shaft aligned. The tranny wa within a quarter inch as I carefull tightened the bolts. They spun almost completely in with just my hand on socket and extension. I was able to torque the top most bolt from the rear of the car.

We had some fall weather and I didn’t even break a sweat getting the work done tonight. Hopefully tomorrow will be cool.

[BFeller]

The car is back together and running. At first it had a tick. Could have been the lifters pumping up after sitting dry for nearly a month. Or it could have been those two muffler clamps that did not get tightened before the 1st start. I tightened those up after the first run around the block in first and second. Then took it for a longer @ 4 Mile Drive. Upon return the ticking has stopped.

Time to get 500 miles on it and then change the oil. Unfortunately the wires leading to my Guardian Plug have broken, so no Guardian to monitor metal in the engine. I am going to have to rely solely on the oil changes and filter inspections. It a shame, I really liked the piece of mind of the Guardian. I am going to make a call Monday. I don’t think the sell them anymore and I am way out of any warranty period.

[paulofto]

Originally Posted by BFeller

Unfortunately the wires leading to my Guardian Plug have broken, so no Guardian to monitor metal in the engine. I am going to have to rely solely on the oil changes and filter inspections. It a shame, I really liked the piece of mind of the Guardian. I am going to make a call Monday. I don’t think the sell them anymore and I am way out of any warranty period.

I went through 2 Guardians for the same reason. The wires coming out of the plug frayed and tore making the units useless. They are unrepairable and even if a third was available I wouldn't get one unless there was vast improvement in the construction.

Frequent oil changes and filter inspection is it from now on.