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Old 04-05-2018, 11:36 PM   #1
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Hello Troutman, great thread, read with interest, which side of Scotland are you in? I must visit the place some time, (Londoner - eww), and fish for some wild trout..

I have a few contributions to your dilemmas:

1, was the thermostat shiny clean when you refitted and it still leaked? that is a worry, was it OEM?

2, You queried how the IMSb bolt could support the side loading of the cam chains - This is now how it works - The inner face of the IMS bearing rides on the 'spider flange', that through bolt merely keeps the assembly true - i.e. stops the bearing meandering fore and aft.

3, You noted your original IMB bearing was as new once the seals were removed, but also must note it was completely devoid of the gearing grease such a bearing requires to survive when sealed by the plastic sides.. I am a fan of the seal removal & splash oil feed lubrication strategy - as you have adopted for the replacement, I would like to copy this idea on my build.

4, exhaust stud jig - what does it look like and are you willing to rent it out? You say you'll be renting out the IMSB tools also, I think I'll be a customer when the time comes also.

Looking forward to updates,

Beers!
Harry
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Old 04-06-2018, 05:03 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Bullet-Proof_Biscuit View Post
Hello Troutman, great thread, read with interest, which side of Scotland are you in? I must visit the place some time, (Londoner - eww), and fish for some wild trout..

3, You noted your original IMB bearing was as new once the seals were removed, but also must note it was completely devoid of the gearing grease such a bearing requires to survive when sealed by the plastic sides.. I am a fan of the seal removal & splash oil feed lubrication strategy - as you have adopted for the replacement, I would like to copy this idea on my build.

Beers!
Harry
I’ve removed three IMS bearings from my car over the last 7 years (two upgraded units) all had seals. The seals on every bearing I’ve pulled had failed and the bearings were full of oil. Removing the seal seems like a good idea. (And no there isn’t a reason to replace them this much, it’s always been a “while you’re in there” thing).

Cheers,
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Old 04-06-2018, 11:54 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullet-Proof_Biscuit View Post
Hello Troutman, great thread, read with interest, which side of Scotland are you in? I must visit the place some time, (Londoner - eww), and fish for some wild trout..

I have a few contributions to your dilemmas:

1, was the thermostat shiny clean when you refitted and it still leaked? that is a worry, was it OEM?

2, You queried how the IMSb bolt could support the side loading of the cam chains - This is now how it works - The inner face of the IMS bearing rides on the 'spider flange', that through bolt merely keeps the assembly true - i.e. stops the bearing meandering fore and aft.

3, You noted your original IMB bearing was as new once the seals were removed, but also must note it was completely devoid of the gearing grease such a bearing requires to survive when sealed by the plastic sides.. I am a fan of the seal removal & splash oil feed lubrication strategy - as you have adopted for the replacement, I would like to copy this idea on my build.

4, exhaust stud jig - what does it look like and are you willing to rent it out? You say you'll be renting out the IMSB tools also, I think I'll be a customer when the time comes also.

Looking forward to updates,

Beers!
Harry
Harry, thanks for your comments, i'll answer as best I can.
The thermostat was from Design911 (Wahler) as are most of the bits I have bought. My engine face was very clean, the old gasket came off in one piece. Not sure why it kept leaking.
With regards to the spindle, you're absolutely right. If the bolt snapped, and it has no reason to, the spindle could in theory fall out the back into the IMS. The bearing would be still have 75% support from the flange, that's what really supports it.
I got that wrong earlier.
I was in two minds as to whether should bother with the cost of replacing the bearing, with tools it was £500 I think. I could have just pulled the grease seal off and I am very confident it would have been fine for another 100k miles especially as it was a dual row but like others have said, when you've gone to that much effort with Clutch / Flywheel / RMS etc, etc you may as well fit a new bearing. In for a penny etc...
There's no question if it was a single row.

If you go to the link below it shows the exhaust stud tools and all that with the manifold studs. They were a challenge I can tell you but all back together now and running really well, with a very light clutch.

The tools are now on ebay and I have advertised them on here too. they are £50/week for everything. £350 deposit and I return £300 when I get them back in a good state.
The RMS tool is brilliant. I can put a stud tool in as well. They do get worn if you have to do lots but they are easy to make. I can give you the email of the guy that made mine.

Anything else you want to know please ask.
BTW I have a trout farm here in Scotland...watching the Ospreys this morning going for them, amazing to see.
Anyone got the cam locking tools?
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