Anyone got the cam locking tools?

[Brian in Tucson]

Originally Posted by Troutman

That is a great solution although not available in the UK and import/postage would make it too expensive..I am getting something similar made to screw on the broken studs, it'll have a 3mm hole drilled right through. Cost £7.
I ordered some PBB which again is not easily available in the UK . cost me £12 ($15) for a can. I read somewhere it's better than WD40 for penetrating the threads. They key here is to make sure you clean off all the corrosion where the stud enters the head to allow oil to go in. I'm going to heat them up too which might help draw it in.

PB Blaster is okay, there are better penetrating oils. Mix atf and acetone 50/50 . I don't remember if your engine is out to the car. I would be tempted to attach the old exhaust gasket and weld a nut on to the stud remains--the heat helps break the bond between bolt and aluminum. Gotta be uber careful, tho. Or if you have ox/acetylene, just heat the stud and crank it out with vice grips.

I wouldn't use studs with copper nuts, copper gets soft under relatively low heat. I would use brass nuts instead. Toyota used to do this.

I don't think I'd try to drill and easy out them either. Very small studs, the danger is breaking off either the drill or the eazy out. Then you are truly screwed. Both are hardened and resist drilling.

[Troutman]

I already tried welding a nut on to one of the stumps but it snapped off so it's now flush with the head.
It was glowing red so got very hot and the weld held up but it still snapped.
I'm hoping using the left hand drill bits right down the centre might be enough to free them up. I can go up to 4.8mm before I touch the threads.
I have ordered some tapered stud removers with 1/2" drive end but these are a last resort after trying everything else. If they break off in there, and I think they will, i'll need to find another pair of heads or I break the car down for spares...that might be the best option.
In the UK mine is a 2 owner FPSH, Black/red leather 76Kmiles..worth about £5k.
I am going to have to spend about £2k on it in parts. IMSB/RMS/Clutch/Flywheel/Exhaust +misc
Ironic really in that it wouldn't be the actual IMSB that wrote the car off by destroying the engine but the process of trying to replace it!

[truegearhead]

This happened to me too, I ordered every special tool I could find and ended up towing to a shop that handles these kinds of nightmares. They couldn’t do it, I towed it to a machine shop and they jacked the car up leveled it to a drill Press with the head inverted and drilled them out and helicoiled it. :ah:

[Troutman]

I know this might sound drastic but if these don't come out, what would stop me from either drilling them right out and tapping a bigger thread in there ? Or..drill them right out and bond some stainless studs in (JB Weld maybe).
Anyone ? think I might be starting to go mad thinking about this.

[Troutman]

I now wish I could have laid my hands on one of these prior to tackling this job. It's a handheld induction heater, designed to loosen stuck bolts. Not cheap though.
Not sure it would do much on exhaust bolts though, I had mine glowing after welding a nut to it and it still snapped off.

http://www.sykes-pickavant.com/images/product/2590_2961_x.jpg

[Brian in Tucson]

Originally Posted by Troutman

I know this might sound drastic but if these don't come out, what would stop me from either drilling them right out and tapping a bigger thread in there ? Or..drill them right out and bond some stainless studs in (JB Weld maybe).
Anyone ? think I might be starting to go mad thinking about this.

You may end up drilling and tapping and then using helicoils to maintain the right thread size.

The problem I would have would be to get the drill perfectly situated so that it was centered on the stud remains and straight. You'll need one of the jigs mentioned earlier in this thread. I went back and read the entire thread and saw that you'd tried my favorite tricks with heat. Sorry there was no joy.

I love marine epoxy (JB Weld) but I don't think I'd rely on it for the heads. Better to go the long way and do it right. Porsches are not a brand to do a half ass job on.

Drilling, use the best, brand new drill bits you can find and use lots of oil (spray WD40 will do.) And go slow! Wish I had access to a lift!

[Troutman]

Brian
I had this made by a chap who machines bits for my motorbikes.





It screws onto the broken stud and allows a 3mm bit to start.
I've tried it out and the 3 left hand bit hardly made a mark in the stud.
So now I've ordered some hi quality 3/4/4.5mm bits for hardened/stainless steel and 2 different makes for comparison.
I've not given up just yet but i'm close.

[Brian in Tucson]

Nice!

I had to find a way to get the dumb/soft lower left fastener off where the bell housing mates to the back of the engine. Soft bolt, who knows what size allen key, but one that I didn't have. So I had to drill in from the side to be able to get something in to break it loose.

I knew my drill bits were crapped out and wouldn't do the job, so I headed to the local hardware store and bought the ones they recommended--Irwin titanium bits. About $28 for a small set, 20 pounds in UK, I guess. I drilled the bolt head with a cordless Hitachi drill. Didn't exactly go through like a knife through soft butter, but with oil, and patience it did the trick.

In your neighborhood, I'd probably look for Bosch drill sets. I've used them and they are 1st rate.

[Troutman]

Was that the T50 bolt , lower left hand side?
Just took that out yesterday, I had to order a new bit as mine had an 8mm hex shaft (to get a spanner on) which was too weak so I ordered one with a 10mm shaft meaning I could use a slightly beefier spanner (well 2 as I used the other for leverage.)


Took a week to arrive but did the job
Gearbox (Transmission) out last night , now need to make the tools for locking the cams so I can get the flywheel out and dig into the IMS bearing.

Im steering (blindly) towards this bearing..Vertex Eternal, I like the idea of cylinders versus the low contact surface of a ball.