Odd problem, simple solution

[Boxstard]

Originally Posted by NewArt

I remember one time I had a similar situation with the inner axle flange bolts. I had changed the boots and after a few weeks the bolts loosened off. Fortunately, I caught it in time! Perhaps a few drops of blue loctite would help?

I think you are supposed to re-torque axle bolts after 500 miles, if I recall.

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by Boxstard

I think you are supposed to re-torque axle bolts after 500 miles, if I recall.

That would be counterproductive as it would break the thread locker that you should have applied.
Re-torquing the axle flange bolts is not recommended.

I've read of these breaking loose after removal/installation (in one case even breaking the transmission mount point off of the trans case), so was wary when I did my clutch. I used blue thread locker and a touch of clear red enamel on the head of the bolts (a blob that was on the side of the head and the mating surface) so I could check periodically to see if they broke loose. That was a year ago and none ever did.

[BFeller]

Originally Posted by particlewave

That would be counterproductive as it would break the thread locker that you should have applied.
Re-torquing the axle flange bolts is not recommended.

I've read of these breaking loose after removal/installation (in one case even breaking the transmission mount point off of the trans case), so was wary when I did my clutch. I used blue thread locker and a touch of clear red enamel on the head of the bolts (a blob that was on the side of the head and the mating surface) so I could check periodically to see if they broke loose. That was a year ago and none ever did.

Nice idea on the paint blob.

[911monty]

Originally Posted by Boxstard

I think you are supposed to re-torque axle bolts after 500 miles, if I recall.

Originally Posted by particlewave

That would be counterproductive as it would break the thread locker that you should have applied.
Re-torquing the axle flange bolts is not recommended.

I've read of these breaking loose after removal/installation (in one case even breaking the transmission mount point off of the trans case), so was wary when I did my clutch. I used blue thread locker and a touch of clear red enamel on the head of the bolts (a blob that was on the side of the head and the mating surface) so I could check periodically to see if they broke loose. That was a year ago and none ever did.

If the axle bolts were installed correctly then there is no reason to not recheck torque, especially for the first time DIY'er. As long as you check to the original torque value there will be no additional movement. However if it does move then they got loose for some reason , dirt, corrosion or incorrect tightening sequence etc. and you will be thankful for the chance to correct the problem.
I checked mine about a week after i C/O the output seal and again when I installed the Koni FSDs. No movement either time. Bonus tip: This task is made especially easy with a 3' extension.

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by 911monty

If the axle bolts were installed correctly then there is no reason to not recheck torque, especially for the first time DIY'er. As long as you check to the original torque value there will be no additional movement. However if it does move then they got loose for some reason , dirt, corrosion or incorrect tightening sequence etc. and you will be thankful for the chance to correct the problem.
I checked mine about a week after i C/O the output seal and again when I installed the Koni FSDs. No movement either time. Bonus tip: This task is made especially easy with a 3' extension.

Aside from the linked post below, I read on another forum specifically to use medium thread locker and leave them be because trying to tighten again could weaken the thread locker. I can't find it now, but I recall it being a reputable source (possibly JR).

Help removing cv joint bolts

[911monty]

Funny. I thought about linking that post or adding something like "I know a professional shop such as JFP's does not bring back to re-torque" etc. I did say if "done correctly" where JFP says "proper installation is critical",(disclaimer: I am a fan of JFP's terminology) I think meaning parts are clean, proper tightening sequence etc. This may or not be true with a DIYer since you don't know their skill level or attention to detail.
So what is said is, that if it was done correctly the first time, and you do not exceed the original torque value, then there will be no further movement of the fastener. ESPECIALLY if you used blue loctite which has now hardened and further increases the torque necessary to move the fastener. So if you are absolutely confident in your installation then don't re-torque, but if that one spec of sand/rust finally grinds down and the bolts get loose....Now I never think about mine, How long and often are you going to check that red paint? Of course I also use a torque wrench when installing my wheels and check them again after a few days, or for that matter whenever I happen to be walking around with a torque wrench and it is convenient.

Something I used to do when installing ARP rod bolts was after using a stretch gage to torque I'd throw a torque wrench set slightly below desired value on to verify. Totally unnecessary but also doesn't hurt.