03-24-2017, 03:29 PM
			
			
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			#1
			
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				2003 S Spark Plug O-Rings
			 
			 
			
		
		
		
			Not sure if the title is spot on but here is the issue: 
Oil leak/Smell has gotten worse over the past month.
 
Going to torque down the valve cover bolts this weekend to see if that is it.  Also De-grease the engine shield.
 
I have read that in the 03 S that it does not have the plastic spark plug tubes as earlier models and that the O ring/spark plug tube seals are now integrated into the valve cover or cylinder heads.  True or false?
 
What parts are needed to fix if so?  Searched here and Pelican but could not find anything that was conclusive.
 
TIA
 
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			03-24-2017, 03:38 PM
			
			
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			#2
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
		
			
				
					Originally Posted by  SteelStroke
					 
				 
				Not sure if the title is spot on but here is the issue: 
 
Oil leak/Smell has gotten worse over the past month. 
 
Going to torque down the valve cover bolts this weekend to see if that is it.  Also De-grease the engine shield. 
 
I have read that in the 03 S that it does not have the plastic spark plug tubes as earlier models and that the O ring/spark plug tube seals are now integrated into the valve cover or cylinder heads.  True or false? 
 
What parts are needed to fix if so?  Searched here and Pelican but could not find anything that was conclusive. 
 
TIA 
			
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2003 and new Boxsters do not have removable plug tubes, they metal and cast into the cam covers.
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			03-24-2017, 04:04 PM
			
			
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			#3
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
		
			
				
					Originally Posted by  JFP in PA
					 
				 
				2003 and new Boxsters do not have removable plug tubes, they metal and cast into the cam covers. 
			
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So no fix for that?  Or could it just be the valve cover gasket (I know it has no real gasket just sealant)
 
Just askin..Thanks JFP
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			03-24-2017, 04:27 PM
			
			
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			#4
			
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			Most likely the cam cover seal, but you have to look to be sure.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			03-24-2017, 06:26 PM
			
			
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			#6
			
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			No, those are actuator seals.  Your cam cover has a think line of a special RTV sealant that runs around its perimeter which sometimes fail and start to leak.  But before you even think about removing the cam cover, you need to clean the area and inspect it carefully to locate the source.  Removing the cam cover is not a trivial matter, the cover forms one half of the cam bearings for both cams, so you would need to either find or fabricate cam holding tools to retain the cams while removing and resealing the cover.  Not properly retaining the cams could easily lead to literally breaking both cams as they are under tremendous spring pressure loads at all times, so this has to be done correctly.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			03-25-2017, 02:40 PM
			
			
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			#7
			
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			You can pull the cover off the 2003 and newer but it is very cramped. The front half of the cams 4,5,6 and rear of 1,2,3 are secured with 2 bearing caps. Turn he motor to TDC. remove the green end cap off the rear of the cams 4,5,6 and front of 1,2,3, part # 99610421554 (2 a side or 4). You have to have the cam setting tool a flat plate that fits in the end of the cam shafts at TDC and bolts to the head. (also most the tension is off the cam in this position as well). Once it's installed you can remove the valve cover, which has three seals on the end of the spark plug socket part # 99610420300 (3 a side or 6).  
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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				2003 Black 986. modified for Advanced level HPDE and open track days.  
* 3.6L LN block, 06 heads, Carrillo H rods, IDP with 987 intake, Oil mods, LN IMS. * Spec II Clutch, 3.2L S Spec P-P FW. * D2 shocks, GT3 arms & and links, Spacers front and rear * Weight reduced, No carpet, AC deleted, Remote PS pump, PS pump deleted. Recaro Pole position seats, Brey crouse ext. 5 point harness, NHP sport exhaust
			 
		
		
		
		
		
			
				  
				
					
						Last edited by jsceash; 03-25-2017 at 02:42 PM.
					
					
				
			
		
		
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			03-26-2017, 05:52 AM
			
			
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			#8
			
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			I would like to add. This is harder than I made it sound You can only do one side at a time because the cam timing tool only fits one side of the engine at any given TDC position. you would have to rotate the engine one additional time to get the other set of cams to align. 
 
Also have 99970755440 o-ring. 1 per side 2 total. 99610421602 end seal they call these lids 1 per side total 2. 
 
If you remove the valve timing solenoid be very careful there is a a screen that can come off if you are not careful. Do not loose or damage this part. The solenoid has a alignment pin in the head and will only seat properly in one position.  
 
The sealant JFP talked about is 0009432043. Both surfaces must be clean and dry. Use only a 1/16" bead, and be very careful not to get this sealant in the oil grooves a the end of the cams. I have found this sealant is miserable to get out of the tube. I have also found warming the sealant tube in hot water helps.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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				2003 Black 986. modified for Advanced level HPDE and open track days.  
* 3.6L LN block, 06 heads, Carrillo H rods, IDP with 987 intake, Oil mods, LN IMS. * Spec II Clutch, 3.2L S Spec P-P FW. * D2 shocks, GT3 arms & and links, Spacers front and rear * Weight reduced, No carpet, AC deleted, Remote PS pump, PS pump deleted. Recaro Pole position seats, Brey crouse ext. 5 point harness, NHP sport exhaust
			 
		
		
		
		
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			03-26-2017, 09:10 AM
			
			
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			#9
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
		
			
				
					Originally Posted by  JFP in PA
					 
				 
				2003 and new Boxsters do not have removable plug tubes, they metal and cast into the cam covers. 
			
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Yes, you have three green seals that sit between the head and the inside of the cam cover:
    
Also, as a precaution I decided to replace the o-rings on both cam actuators and used the sealant sold by Pelican for the cam cover, and so far (after +/- 1,000K) have not got any more leaks :-)
 
However, I lowered the engine a few inches for the cam cover to clear the frame.
 
I can search the P/N's for the seals I replaced if you need them.
 
Good  luck!
 
PS: the two other holes on the left side are where the variocam actuators go
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				  
				
					
						Last edited by Gilles; 03-26-2017 at 10:50 AM.
					
					
				
			
		
		
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			03-29-2017, 06:50 AM
			
			
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			#10
			
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			BTW, here are the part numbers for the seals that I used for the cylinder bank 1-3 
 
* P/N 996-105-244-03 lid actuator, Qty. (2) 
* P/N 999-707-479-40 o-ring actuator, Qty. (1)  
* P/N 999-707-479-40 o-ring actuator, Qty. (1) 
* P/N 996-105-903-05 o-ring cam actuator, Qty. (1) 
* P/N 996-104-045-00 cam cover inner seals (green), Qty (3) 
* P/N 000-043-204-35 sealant for cam cover, Qty. (1 tube) 
 
Please note that these seals were for an '07 3.4 CS but should be easy to cross reference to the other engines (3.2, 2.7..)
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			04-04-2017, 12:45 PM
			
			
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			#11
			
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				In the Shop
			 
			 
			
		
		
		
			Well, turns out it was the internal green seals on the cam cover.  3 total leaking. 
 
Local indy shop is getting her back into shape.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			10-06-2017, 10:19 AM
			
			
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			#12
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
		
			
				
					Originally Posted by  SteelStroke
					 
				 
				Well, turns out it was the internal green seals on the cam cover.  3 total leaking. 
 
Local indy shop is getting her back into shape. 
			
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how much that costed you so I have an idea cost associated if mine ever need this?
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			10-06-2017, 12:03 PM
			
			
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			#13
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
		
			
				
					Originally Posted by  Gilles
					 
				 
				Yes, you have three green seals that sit between the head and the inside of the cam cover: 
			
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Correct, but we see very few people that want to do their own due to having to remove the cam cover and not having the tools to do it with.
 
These also very rarely leak, unlike the removable plastic tubes.
		  
		
		
 
		
		
		
		
			
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