Need help diagnosing suspension clunk and steering wobble

[Gordons986]

Okay so in the meantime ive spent the last few hours looking at several site you guys have referred me to and made a chart so i can pick out the cheapest prices for the best products.
I also have to take into account american exchange rate; please inform me if one of the sites is non american and is euro or canadian.
First i called my local porsche dealer which of course was the highest prices i found. over 500 per coffin arm and over 300 per front trailing arm. i wont even get into the rest of the pricing.
I checked out suncoast, pelican, FCP and ECS tuning and found that each site got cheaper as i went in that order... for the same products (mostly TRW)

so i ended up at ECS tuning finding the coffin arms for $86 the front trailing arms for $129 drop links for $32 swaybar bushings for $32 koni shocks for $862 H&R coils for $300 new strut bearings $34 and strut mounts $34 and new bump stops for $10

Im considering dropping the money and ordering it all and doing it all at the same time my self. but im also considering just doing the drop links, coffin arms and front trailing/control arms to save some money until i can really decide what i want for new struts...

I know ill save myself an alignment if i do it all at the same time however...

what are your guys thoughts? and has anyone ever had any experience or heard anything about the stagg struts? I came across this brand as i was searching the internet for parts. they were listed on ebay.

[Racer Boy]

I hadn't heard of FCP when I was shopping for my parts, so I ended up just going to Pelican and ECS. It turned out that Pelican was slightly more expensive, but in the end was cheaper once you factored in the free shipping (once you spent over a certain amount). Just something to think about.

If you are going to take it far enough apart to get the coffin arms out, you may as well do everything else at the same time. As you mentioned, you'll only need to get an alignment done once, too.

Be aware that the H & R springs will drop your car about 40 mm (1 1/2 inches). That is pretty low for daily driving in my opinion.

[jakeru]

My local Firestone offered a "lifetime alignment" which applies to the vehicle as long as you keep owning it. Could be a good option for you to consider if you potentially see multiple suspension service jobs in your future.

I would stay away from any bargain brand (you can find on eBay, but also I seem to recall ECS sells one called "Hamburg technic", so specifically beware of that) on any rubber suspension components, (especially when you aren't sure that there's anything wrong with your current part - in which case your preventive maintenance could easily backfire and cause more problems than doing nothing).

IME with other bargain rubber parts (like aftermarket engine mounts purchased for other cars), they can look fine when you first get them, but self-destruct very shortly after installation.

I still personally believe your steering inconsistency could be caused by just a worn out trailing arm spherical bearing. My front bump stops on my '01 base with 110k were also obliterated before I did suspension service. If your suspension bottoms out frequently (mine did), replacing them will help improve that. Best to do bump stops at the same time as replacing the struts, though.

Trailing arms repair or replacement could easily be done as a standalone project. When you get to replacing struts, you have a much, much larger scope of project on your hands. Hope this helps and best of luck!

[Gordons986]

Originally Posted by Racer Boy

I hadn't heard of FCP when I was shopping for my parts, so I ended up just going to Pelican and ECS. It turned out that Pelican was slightly more expensive, but in the end was cheaper once you factored in the free shipping (once you spent over a certain amount). Just something to think about.

Do you know if the free shipping applies to canada? ive bought from them before but never over $100 so i dont know if that works but ill definitely check that out.

also yea i didnt know they would drop my car that much, where can i find the euro M030 ROW springs? or do they come in a set with struts? meaning i couldnt use the Konis?

Originally Posted by jakeru

My local Firestone offered a "lifetime alignment" which applies to the vehicle as long as you keep owning it. Could be a good option for you to consider if you potentially see multiple suspension service jobs in your future.

I would stay away from any bargain brand (you can find on eBay, but also I seem to recall ECS sells one called "Hamburg technic", so specifically beware of that) on any rubber suspension components, (especially when you aren't sure that there's anything wrong with your current part - in which case your preventive maintenance could easily backfire and cause more problems than doing nothing).

IME with other bargain rubber parts (like aftermarket engine mounts purchased for other cars), they can look fine when you first get them, but self-destruct very shortly after installation.

I still personally believe your steering inconsistency could be caused by just a worn out trailing arm spherical bearing. My front bump stops on my '01 base with 110k were also obliterated before I did suspension service. If your suspension bottoms out frequently (mine did), replacing them will help improve that. Best to do bump stops at the same time as replacing the struts, though.

Trailing arms repair or replacement could easily be done as a standalone project. When you get to replacing struts, you have a much, much larger scope of project on your hands. Hope this helps and best of luck!

Thanks! Im about 90% sure that it is one of the two ball joints/one of the two arms. so i think i will start with the trailing arm. is there a way to inspect the arm once its out? i wouldnt mind taking it out and inspecting it and putting it back if its really not in need of replacement. but i hear the TRW ones are a good upgrade.

definitly going to stick to TRW unless there is something that TRW dosent make then i will look for another reputable brand.

The other thing is that my suspension has only bottomed out a few times in potholes and pulling into some driveways with speed. when i push on the fender or jump in the trunk the suspension goes down and comes back up without ocilating. leading me to think the struts are good but may be in need of replacement. i am looking at doing autox events here want a slightly lower ride height but not too stiff because i do still daily the car

[Racer Boy]

I'd just go ahead and replace the trailing arms, because with that many miles on them, I'm sure they are worn out. When I replaced my rears which were clunking badly, I looked at the old ones, and they looked and felt fine. But of course they were shot, since the new ones fixed the clunking noises.

[Gordons986]

Originally Posted by Racer Boy

I'd just go ahead and replace the trailing arms, because with that many miles on them, I'm sure they are worn out. When I replaced my rears which were clunking badly, I looked at the old ones, and they looked and felt fine. But of course they were shot, since the new ones fixed the clunking noises.

Okay thanks for the help! ill order and replace the trailing arms and report back!

[Racer Boy]

Good luck! BTW, you shouldn't need an alignment if you only replace the trailing arms.

[Gordons986]

Originally Posted by Racer Boy

Good luck! BTW, you shouldn't need an alignment if you only replace the trailing arms.

yea this is the bonus! was just about to order the trailing arms from ECS but i found out while i was paying that they wont ship to PO boxes. I have a PO box in washington so i dont have to pay duty and still get free shipping. I emailed them and hoping they get back to me on monday

[jedblanks]

Any updates on this?

[Smallblock454]

Noise at 4:20. I would say engine mount.

Wobbling steering wheel: Tyre balance?

Car tries to drive to the left: wheel alignment? Not even worn tyres?

Pictures: you need to check all control arms for play. You can't see from that picture if something is worn.

Regards, Markus

[jedblanks]

Cliff Notes: Check the shock pinch bolt that the top of the drop links go through (63 fit lbs)

So I found this thread and a few others since march when I got my 2001 Boxster S with 58k miles . I had a some clunks and a wobble, wandering steering on bumps.



The very first service I did on the car was a oil change and a brake job - new pads and change fluid. Rotors looked on as far a thickness. Pretty much my standard items when getting a used car.

After a month or so I started to drive more with the top up and on the freeway and I noticed the clunks around town and the wobbly steering at speeds over 60 mph

The next item I replaced was inner and outer tie rods on both sides. This made almost no difference at all.

After a month or two of clunking over small bumps at low speed, I replaced was the front and rear track arms. New TRW units cost around $400 total from elephant racing (front) and summit racing (rear).

That pretty much solved the loud rhythmic clunks around town, but the wobbling steering and occasional random clunk when unloaded after a bump remained.

I had a rattling exhaust baffle, so I changed that out and wasn't sure if the clunking was related to new exhaust.

The next items I replaced were front sway bar bushings. I did a few adjustments to bring more toe-in on the front end alignment.

Random clunks remained around town 10- 20. Wobble/ unstable remained Especially over 60 on the freeway.

So I ordered new drop links all around, rear swaybar bushings and engine mount insert,.

I was beginning to think I would have to go all the way and replace coffin arms, shocks and rear toe links.

When I changed the droplinks on one side, there was no change.

A week later the parts for the other side and rear sway bushings came in.

This time I made sure that I torqued the top bolts on the sway bar drop links to 63 ft lbs and the bottom bolts to 37 ft lbs (~450 in lbs as my large torque wrench wouldn't fit).

I was "shocked" and how many turns I got on the top bolt after it was tight with a 15mm and a 17mm backup. When I finally got it to 63 ft lbs, I realized that the other side probably wasn't tight either.

I think this was the problem all along -- one stinkin' bolt not tight. Its the same bolt that pinches the bottom of the shock to the hub knuckle.

So for those reading this in the future:
1) check the pinch bolt for the bottom of the shock - torque it to 63 ft lbs
2) change the front and rear track control arms.

What a hassle this was to track down!

[paulofto]

Originally Posted by jedblanks

Cliff Notes: Check the shock pinch bolt that the top of the drop links go through (63 fit lbs)

+1 to jedblanks

Thank you. I read your post this morning and went out and checked all the suspension points you discussed and, lo and behold, the right rear drop link attachment at the 'pinch point' required re-torqueing to the tune of 3/4 turn.

I had been experiencing a 'clunking' or 'rattling' noise over expansion joints while driving slowly and i was convinced was from the front. I had replaced the sway bar bushings front and rear and although the noise was less pronounced it was still there.

This solution of ensuring the proper torque on the various bolts has done the trick. I was very close to pulling the trigger and buying new drop links all around but now i can put that off until they do start to fail.

Again, thank you.