12-17-2015, 04:14 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 128
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Well, you are in the same boat I was in a few days ago. Ultimately, I think you're two options are the HT brand or pay the extra and get the OEM Porsche parts. I went with HT and if you're willing to wait a few weeks, I'll let you know how they are!
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12-17-2015, 05:03 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: QC
Posts: 412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steved0x
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I went with these as the TRW were unubtainium at the time and appear to still be.
A little heavier than stock and I seem to have developed a sound when loading in either forward or backward, but may be my worn out lower control arm bushings... Still quiet in situations where the old shot ball joints would be making a racket so I guess I'm happy with them. If the noise isn't bothering you too much, I'd wait and see what the reviews are like on the other makers of the OEM style arms.
Of course if money is no object, those elephant racing arms are gorgeous
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12-17-2015, 06:11 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillH
Of course if money is no object, those elephant racing arms are gorgeous ![EEK!](http://www.986forum.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
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Yes they are!
I wonder why nobody makes a kit to refurbish the monoball/bushing, seems like it could be pressed in fairly easily. The rest of it is just a big solid metal piece with no moving parts...
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12-18-2015, 05:43 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: S. New Jersey
Posts: 1,239
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I watched for 5 - 6 month until some trw lower control arms became available
Now that i have an extra pair I could send them to vertex and have them rebuild
I thing it is going to get harder to get oem. Only the same part but 4x cost as origial porsche
That $2000 year maintenance may jump, a grand or 2 if you want to use oem parts
__________________
2002 S - old school third pedal
Seal Grey
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12-18-2015, 09:10 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steved0x
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Avoid these. Had them on my car and they're a) heavy b) can become noisy and c) the weld broke after I removed them and the next owner attempted to install them.
Top Speed makes these adjustable control arms for cars with coilovers to get them into factory alignment and they're cheap Chinese knock-offs, not good quality race parts that cost 2x what the OEM factory parts cost and are made with billet aluminum.
What I finally did was to buy low mileage ones from Woody (itsnotanova) for $25 each. If I have to swap them out in a year or two with other low mileage salvage parts I'm OK with that. Lord knows the new OEM factory ones might only last two years with the crappy rubber they use in the bushings, so what's the difference?
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12-18-2015, 11:59 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,144
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I found some for $130 each from... of all places... buried in with the dizzying array of bushings and high dollar motorsports items... Elephant Racing:
Elephant Racing | OEM Control Arms and Links | Porsche Boxster/Caymen
I just ordered them and they shipped out and should arrive 12/29.
I wonder who they are made by, I guess I will find out when they get here. I called and they said they were OEM Porsche, so $130 is a smoking deal if that is true.
Steve
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12-18-2015, 12:05 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour
What I finally did was to buy low mileage ones from Woody (itsnotanova) for $25 each. If I have to swap them out in a year or two with other low mileage salvage parts I'm OK with that.
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That sounds like a smart move, from what I understand they are not that hard to install.
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12-18-2015, 04:05 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: SE Ma
Posts: 261
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I have all 4 drop links from a low mileage '01 S model for $30. each plus shipping.
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12-19-2015, 02:25 AM
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#11
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Tyler
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: North Carolina -> New York -> Georgia
Posts: 52
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I replaced all four of mine (back then front) back in August. I did the TRW in the back, and ran into the same problem. I could not find TRW for the front. I did the EPS with Urethane bushings in the front. So far, so good. I don't drive my car a lot, and it is not a track car.
Couple of tips when replacing: I would recommend replacing the sway bar bushings when you are in there. I did OEM Porsche, and they are not that expensive. The back ones are extremely simple to replace (they don't require the control arms to be out), but the front ones I would definitely do when replacing the control arms.
Also, I put a jack under the wheel to raise it up and get the alignment for the control arm. When doing the front, I had to turn the wheels slightly to get the alignment.
I had the "tar strip" rumbling, and it went away 100%. Good luck.
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12-19-2015, 04:50 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbox986
Couple of tips when replacing: I would recommend replacing the sway bar bushings when you are in there. I did OEM Porsche, and they are not that expensive. The back ones are extremely simple to replace (they don't require the control arms to be out), but the front ones I would definitely do when replacing the control arms.
Also, I put a jack under the wheel to raise it up and get the alignment for the control arm. When doing the front, I had to turn the wheels slightly to get the alignment.
I had the "tar strip" rumbling, and it went away 100%. Good luck.
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I've got new bushings ready to go in the front, backs are already replaced but fronts looked like a hassle so I have been waiting... This will be the perfect time to do them
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12-19-2015, 02:54 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: toronto
Posts: 2,668
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Check out RSS.
__________________
986 00S
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12-19-2015, 03:25 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,934
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By any chance does someone have handy the torque value for the bolts for the lower control arm (2), and the control link [1]..?
Thank you!
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12-19-2015, 03:28 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilles
By any chance does someone have handy the torque value for the bolts for the lower control arm (2), and the control link [1]..?
Thank you!
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PS: 1) Lower control arm to frame (end bushing)
2) Lower Control arm to control link (center bushing)
3) Control Link to frame
Thanks again!
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12-19-2015, 05:29 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,144
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#1 lca to cross member (frame?) - 88 ft/lb
#2 caster/diagonal/trailing control arm to lca center bushing - 118 ft/lb , other end (to car) 88 ft/lb for front wheels, 118 ft/lb for rear wheels
Lca to wheel carrier - 75 ft/lb
Can you post a link to the auto Atlanta part diagram and we can map the torque values to the different ends of the parts to make sure I am giving the right values? In case we are talking different parts.
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12-20-2015, 10:43 AM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steved0x
#1 lca to cross member (frame?) - 88 ft/lb
#2 caster/diagonal/trailing control arm to lca center bushing - 118 ft/lb , other end (to car) 88 ft/lb for front wheels, 118 ft/lb for rear wheels
Lca to wheel carrier - 75 ft/lb
Can you post a link to the auto Atlanta part diagram and we can map the torque values to the different ends of the parts to make sure I am giving the right values? In case we are talking different parts.
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Thanks Steve!
That is exactly the information I was looking for (# 4, 7, & 11)
Sorry that I used the wrong terms you are correct stating the Sub Frame..
Last edited by Gilles; 12-20-2015 at 10:45 AM.
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12-20-2015, 12:43 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,144
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Cool those were the ones! They seem to be called different things based on there you read it.
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