Brake fluid change help please

[sickbananas]

Okay so Mr Lazy has been doing a little reading, I have a few questions now that I understand the process better

1. Would replacing the brake hoses with braided hoses be a worthwhile exercise to do while I am at it?

2. besides basic tools and fluid, does list look right in terms of what I need?
-Motive power bleeder
-speed bleeders (4x needed but these are optional)
-catchment bottles, they come in a pack of two, I assume I need 4x ?

3. Is a special spanner for the nipples worthwhile buying or not?

thanks guys!

[thstone]

Originally Posted by sickbananas

1. Would replacing the brake with braided hoses be a worthwhile exercise to do while I am at it?

Yes and no. They can help if your existing lines are old or in poor shape. If your hoses are in good shape you may not notice much of an improvement. But they aren't horribly expensive so this is probably a worthwhile upgrade.

Originally Posted by sickbananas

2. besides basic tools and fluid, does list look right in terms of what I need?
-Motive power bleeder
-speed bleeders (4x needed but these are optional)
-catchment bottles, they come in a pack of two, I assume I need 4x ?

The Motive power bleeder is the key component. I didn't use the speed bleeders and one catch bottle was fine since I did one caliper at a time.

Originally Posted by sickbananas

3. Is a special spanner for the nipples worthwhile buying or not?

I bought a closed end specialty wrench but then found that its stuck on there as long as the catch bottle tube is attached, so I ended up using a standard open end wrench anyway. Maybe there is a better approach or technique to avoid this issue?

[sickbananas]

Thank you for all the great advice and help. I have read the pelican parts instructions on how to do the process a few times and have just a few questions or rather observations I would like to confirm.

They talk about cars with traction control needs to use a different bleeding process (non traditional) I assume this does not apply to a 986 S that does have TC?

When using a power bleeder as I am planning to use, the speed bleeders are not necessary as far I can understand, they are only needed to make life simpler if you don't have a power bleeder and am I correct in saying, they replace the standard nipples, in other words they stay on the callipers once you are done, this is just as a matter of interest.

[Muskoka Minute]

They talk about cars with traction control needs to use a different bleeding process (non traditional) I assume this does not apply to a 986 S that does have TC?


Is there anything special that has to be done on car with Traction Control?
I have a 2004 SE.

Bart

[thstone]

Originally Posted by Muskoka Minute

They talk about cars with traction control needs to use a different bleeding process (non traditional) I assume this does not apply to a 986 S that does have TC?


Is there anything special that has to be done on car with Traction Control?
I have a 2004 SE.

Bart

Officially, the traction control system needs to be activated to open the valves to flush all of the old fluid. Normally, this will require a Porsche factory PST2 tool or equivalent.

Unofficially, I had never done this when I do the yearly brake flush on my Boxster with TC and never had any problems.

You can try doing it without exercising the TC system and if the pedal is firm when you're done, then everything is ok. If you do the flush but end up with a spongy brake pedal, then you'll probably have to take the car in to a shop that has the tool to exercise the TC system to get it fully bled.

The Pelican DIY instructions say the same thing (read down into the comments): Boxster Bleeding Brakes

[Burg Boxster]

Originally Posted by thstone

Officially, the traction control system needs to be activated to open the valves to flush all of the old fluid...

Yes, "officially". Then again checking tire pressure in all four wheels probably has allotted at least one hour of book time units.

Both my 997 and Macan have all the ABS, TC, PSM, & PASM electronic nannies and I have yet to ever exercise any when bleeding/flushing brakes. Same w/ my BMW SUV...

Just suck out most old fluid from reservoir (old turkey baster which now stays in garage permanently), refill reservoir w/ new fluid and connect Motive Power Bleeder (dry) and pressurize. Start at wheel furthest from reservoir and work back towards closest. DOUBLE CHECK reservoir level and pressure after each caliper - refilling as necessary.

Misc tips:

• wipe up any drops or spills of brake fluid ASAP - i.e. have rags on hand at each corner and reservoir before starting
• use a clear catch container or at least translucent one
• add graduated markings w/ a permanent marker to catch container if not already present (approx every 4 oz is good). After a few bleeds you'll become comfortable w/ what's coming out, when the line is clear/new fluid and also confident about not running reservoir dry.
• if catch container is not magnetic or doesn't have a hanger/retainer strap, get a bleed tube long enough to reach your container on ground (most any hardware store)
• use a 90 degree nipple on your bleeder tube - less dripping when removed
• when finished bleeding, adjust reservoir to proper level by adding fluid or if overfull by bleeding excess out at closest caliper as opposed to sucking out

Good luck

[Lew]

Anyone done this when bleeding their brakes? It's been said some Porsche owners with PSM (Porsche Stability Management) have been able to bleed the brakes without special tools. Instead, they have turned the ignition on, turned off PSM, then bled the brakes as normal.