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Old 03-21-2015, 09:43 PM   #1
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CV inner boot replacement in situ

Just completed my monthly inspections on my 2001 S only to find a small split in the L/H side inner drive shaft rubber boot. These were replaced by the OPC when I bought the car from them in 2008 and have only lasted 40,000km (25,000 miles).

I've checked Pelican Parts and can get a CV boot kit for less than $40 which is great - even with the extra $$ for transport to Australia.

Pelican also have a tutorial for removing & installing the inner CV joints / boots without disconnecting the outer end of the driveshaft. As I only want to replace the inner boots on both sides of the transmission, this would suit me but, my question is has anyone replaced the boots as Pelican describe ie undo the 6 x driveshaft securing bolts, remove the cap, lock ring & CV joint & slide off the split boot with the driveshaft still coupled up to the rear wheel carrier? I don't want to pull the drive shaft out completely (double the work) if I don't have to, as the outer boots are still in good condition.

Help appreciated as always....
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Old 03-22-2015, 02:11 AM   #2
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Hi,

i've replaced the boots at my 2003 S MT. I can not imagine that you can replace the inner boots while the driveshaft is in the car. Maybe it works for a 2.5, or AT. But not for a 3.2 MT.

If you want to do it while the axle is in the car on a 3.2 MT you have to remove the catalysator. Else you definetely won't have enough room to work and get the bearing out. I think it is easier to pull the complete driveshaft. But you'll need a torque wrench and nut that can handle 460 Nm for the central axle locking nut.

Also i would allways replace both driveshaft cv boots. And another tip: Don't use cheap CV boots. There is a difference in material thickness and quality beetween Porsche OEM parts and cheap after market quality parts. So if it lasts only 30-40.000 Km this was a cheap one and i definitively would replace both.
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Old 03-22-2015, 08:49 AM   #3
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Steve,
The 6 spd seems to have a shorter service life for the CV boots. I guess the steeper angle of the driveshafts compared to the 5 spd.
The PO of my car replaced the inner CV boots and now the outer boots are cracking .It seems prudent to do as Markus suggests -pull the drive shaft and do both ends.The Forums mention some issues with driveshaft bolts coming loose.Blue Loctite required ? Then you could post a Tutorial for us? Remember to get the correct CV grease-Pelican sells it.
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:39 AM   #4
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Concerning CV grease. Don't know about the CV grease Pelican sells. Porsche OEM CV grease is very expensive. For a Boxster you can also take Audi/VW grease for the CV. It will also work as well and it is less expensive. It is important to remove all old grease.

Loctite or an aquivalent screwlock product is a must for the drive shaft bolts.
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:41 AM   #5
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I did the inners and the outers no problem on my S. Take the Inner CV joint off, it's held on by a circlip. clean the axle off thoroughly, slide the outer boot all the way off over the axle, clean the grease out while it is still attached, then add new grease, slide the new boot all the way over the axle, then slide the boot for the inner, reinstall the inner CV joint (it's good to use new circlips) and re-attach to the transmission. I did all 4 boots on both sides in about 2 hrs...while I was home with the flu.

It is pretty much as easy as you described.
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Old 03-22-2015, 11:14 AM   #6
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@ Polaris: Do you have a stock exhaust system?
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Old 03-23-2015, 01:06 AM   #7
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Thanks everyone - I guess I'll be pulling the complete driveshafts out then.....

Smallblock = the current boots were installed by Porsche (under warranty) so I would assume genuine. As for grease, I'm using Castrol LLM which has a high molybdenum disulphide content.

I have just checked and my biggest torque wrench only goes up to 250 ft/lb, so I better break it to my wife that there's another purchase on the horizon - its her birthday next week, perhaps she would like a nice new 350 ft/b torque wrench,,,,,
There again, better not, I'm not in her good books at the moment !!
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:00 AM   #8
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Maybe this will help.

OEM Porsche CV boot for a 986S MT 2003 (NOT AT!). Also OEM manufacturer and part number.

928 parts were used for 986 S 2003.




Last edited by Smallblock454; 03-23-2015 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:47 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Tinker View Post
Thanks everyone - I guess I'll be pulling the complete driveshafts out then.....

Smallblock = the current boots were installed by Porsche (under warranty) so I would assume genuine. As for grease, I'm using Castrol LLM which has a high molybdenum disulphide content.

I have just checked and my biggest torque wrench only goes up to 250 ft/lb, so I better break it to my wife that there's another purchase on the horizon - its her birthday next week, perhaps she would like a nice new 350 ft/b torque wrench,,,,,
There again, better not, I'm not in her good books at the moment !!
While the purists won't like this, a reasonably accurate way to torque the axle nuts is to use your body weight and a breaker bar. For example, if you weigh 200 lbs and step on a breaker bar 18" from the bolt you are applying approximately 300 lb-ft to the nut.
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Old 03-23-2015, 11:06 AM   #10
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exactly - you are not going to accurately get to 360'#, so jumping on a breaker bar does the trick.

you can do the axles while still in the car, however you have to loosen (not remove) the mid pipes to get at them. note that the cv doesn't always slide off - sometimes it takes quite a bit of oophm to persuade it off (the cv wears a gouge in the splines) which is easier with the axle in a vise. my advice? try with them still in the car; if it doesn''t happen for you then remove them.

one bit thing is to make sure you clean all the grease of the bolts when you thread them into the transmission flanges. they can pick up grease when you slide them through the cv, so give those openings a good clean as well.
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Old 03-23-2015, 11:28 AM   #11
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Great info Markus.Interesting that the 928 parts bin was raided for the Boxster.
The usual variation in Porsche vs. generic.I found Victor Reinz CV boots for $11 and Porsche for $50.The "GKN" brand is even cheaper.
Porsche 911 Boxster CV Joint Boot GKN Loebro Brand New 928 332 293 02 | eBay
Steven -to solve your matrimonial issue, I suggest the $11 option :-).
New Porsche 911 Boxster CV Joint Boot 928 332 293 02 | eBay
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Old 03-23-2015, 12:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spendy View Post
While the purists won't like this, a reasonably accurate way to torque the axle nuts is to use your body weight and a breaker bar. For example, if you weigh 200 lbs and step on a breaker bar 18" from the bolt you are applying approximately 300 lb-ft to the nut.
Will work - at a truck for example. And i have to admit, that i'm also a fan of tricks like that. Also a fan of easy maths and physics.

But never do such things if the axle is not fixed. For example if you have on a lift this isn't a recommended way. Also if you under- or overtorque you'll have a problem soon. Also if you slip off.

So my recommendation is always a torque wrench. Especially for hobby car workers.

I went to a DIY workshop where i was able to lend all special tools for a very moderate price.

@ Gelbster / Steve Tinker:
LÖBRO is a sub brand of GKN. So they will be OK. If you'll buy on ebay i would ask the seller first if the product is an original LÖBRO/GKN part. On ebay you'll sometimes get fake parts. That's why i prefer to buy from automotive parts dealers. Also make shure that the shown part number is on the part. GKN does also universal parts that are a lot cheaper.

Infos on LÖBRO/GKN/Spidan:
Achsmanschetten - PKW - GKN Aftermarkets & Services

Regards
Markus

PS: The AT has different inner CV boots. The outer boots (wheel side) are the same.
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Old 03-23-2015, 01:01 PM   #13
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Markus,
Here we have Harbor Freight- thousands of retail stores selling very cheap (but O.K.) tools .Lots of discount coupons .So you can get a monster 3/4" drive torque wrench for $50.
3/4" Torque Wrench
I presume there is something similar in Germany?
Thanks for the confirmation about GKN. I am sure Steven's wife appreciates it too !
Steven a great tool to buy for your wife - I have just done this - a large ultra sonic cleaner .Yes it works well for fuel injectors but you can tell her it is for all the jewelery you'll be buying her in future? I tried it on both the injectors and the jewels - it works very well.
DSA70SE JY3 3L 3 17qt 70W 40KHZ Industrial Grade Ultrasonic Parts Cleaner Washer | eBay
I would like to replace the outer CV boots on my 2001 S 6 speed but the engine+trans is out now and I did not think to loosen the big nut on the hub first ! Just wondering if anyone has used a 3/4" air impact tool to remove the big nut? At 340NM++ I am worried I may break something.
http://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-professional-air-impact-wrench-68423.html

Last edited by Gelbster; 03-23-2015 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 03-23-2015, 01:57 PM   #14
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Yesterday I ordered the Pelican Parts boot "kit" which they say is manufactured by GKN - I don't think Pelican would sell el cheapo knockoff parts for Porsche....

I also went round to two tool supply stores yesterday and the CHEAPEST 350 ft/lb torque wrench I can buy in Australia was over $600 = $US500.... Admittedly both wrenches were good brands, but what can I say. Its stuff like this that makes maintaining your car SO expensive here in Oz - the parts cost less than $50 but to complete the job I have to invest 10 times that on a single wrench that I will only use every other blue moon....
I may just as well get the local shop to install - it will be cheaper than buying the damn torque wrench !!

Late Note.....
Just logged onto Harbour Freight & see they ship to Australia - I'll get a quote from them - thanks Gelbster....
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Old 03-23-2015, 02:00 PM   #15
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Just tighten the nut as best you can, drive gently to the nearest mechanic and slip him a few cold ones to torque your nuts?
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Old 03-23-2015, 02:28 PM   #16
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@Smallblock454

Yes, I have stock exhaust. It was not installed at the time I did the boots. It is not a very big job to remove the rear bumper and exhaust to access it all.
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Old 03-23-2015, 03:19 PM   #17
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@ Polaris,

OK, well that's the difference. I didn't touch the exhaust sytem. Job was done in 60 minutes. 15 minutes to get the axle out by removing the lower arm from the wheel carrier. 30 minutes to remove both boots, clean everything, fill in grease, install new boots and special clamps. 15 minutes to get the axle in and bolt everything to specs. In the moment getting the axle in and out you need another person, or better 2 persons because somebody has to pull the lower arm away while you handle the axle. So 2 axles complete within 2 hours.

If i wanted to deinstall my exhaust system that was there since 11 years last year i think it would have taken alone minimum 2 hours to get the exhaust system off the car. But if you are a daily exhaust modder and you exhaust system is without any rust, maybe you'll be faster.

As said, you have to remove the exhaust/catalysator, or you have to remove the lower arm from the wheel carrier. Else you won't be able to change cv boots on a 6 speed S.

Regards
Markus

Last edited by Smallblock454; 03-23-2015 at 09:56 PM.
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Old 06-09-2016, 10:25 AM   #18
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Well, after going against the mechanics advice and telling my garage the boots could be done with the axle in situ and as per the instructions in 101 Projects - I can confirm that is not possible on a 2003 Boxster S with the exhaust in place. Wasted 1.5 hours of labour charges and egg on my face!

To compound the problems they couldn't release / crack the lower arm ball joint to remove the axle the traditional way from the wheel hub end either and they didn't want to mess with the exhaust as it's a bit corroded and would need work on the fixings / sleeves afterwards.

Bit of a disaster of a day, and to think I was going to tackle it myself following 101 Projects method!

Back to the drawing board, it's either dropping the exhaust and possibly replacing parts or possibly having to replace a lower arm and ball joint when that is damaged as it is forcibly removed.
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Old 06-09-2016, 10:36 AM   #19
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I removed both my axles as part of a wheel bearing replacement and I didn't drop my exhaust, I removed the LCA. They were the original pieces on the car and I was replacing them anyway which was a good thing because they were on there TIGHT and I had to use a pickle fork on one which totally destroyed the boot.

Help, I can't get this blasted LCA ball joint loose

I replaced with Meyle brand LCA, in my opinion a good brand and the parts appeared to be very high quality, they were around $100'ish each I believe.
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Old 06-09-2016, 11:53 AM   #20
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Drop the exhaust, it takes 15min maximum Replace the rusted bolts, it costs only few $$ with new gaskets.

I did both inner and outer cv boots on mine (though a base 2.7, not a S), on a lift it took me about 3hrs (taking my time to clean the cv joints well and regrease everything, while showing the job to my classmates).

Get yourself a set of long hex bits, and long hex bit with ball ends, it will save you some cursing to put the inner cv joints back (don't torque the bolts with the ball end!).

Good luck
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