Is it possible to get 330 HP from a 2003 3.2L Engine?

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by JAAY

14.6:1 is normal for cruise and idle. That number bounces around a bit but is fine. I use an aem uego wideband gauge and sensor to tune up my car along with a piggybacked air flow manipulator. I use an old apexi afc select. I believe any newer one would also work. I dont have logging software but just do it the old school way. Either on a dyno or a good old stretch of road and 4th gear.

I read your thread on this, pretty slick.

So there is no way for me to get the AFR at WOT, except to change the O2 Sensors (not sure if I'm correct on that) or take it to a dyno?

[The Radium King]

not change - add - a wideband o2 sensor. it's pretty standard tuner kit - sends signal to an afr gauge, datalogger, etc. typically use bosch units so threads are universal - check you exhaust for a spare bung (preferably before the cat). if not a permanent install you could probably just install in place of a post-cat o2 sensor and put up with an emissions code for a while. plx devices also make a unit that has a narrow band output so that you should be able to install in place of an oem 02 sensor.

this will give you wot afrs. however, if your trims aren't too out of whack when running closed loop then it is a safe assumption that you're ok open loop.

[WillH]

Not to high jack but is there a "power commander V" with wideband sensors and auto tune style piggy back for the ECU that is available? I see we don't have a TuneECU freeware or of the like for the home tuner.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

not change - add - a wideband o2 sensor. it's pretty standard tuner kit - sends signal to an afr gauge, datalogger, etc. typically use bosch units so threads are universal - check you exhaust for a spare bung (preferably before the cat). if not a permanent install you could probably just install in place of a post-cat o2 sensor and put up with an emissions code for a while. plx devices also make a unit that has a narrow band output so that you should be able to install in place of an oem 02 sensor.

this will give you wot afrs. however, if your trims aren't too out of whack when running closed loop then it is a safe assumption that you're ok open loop.

Very nice, thank you.

Originally Posted by The Radium King

did a bit of searching for you and the rkat is high. did you reset the ecu? otherwise perhaps check for air leak. a small leak has more effect at idle than it does at part or full throttle.

I did a vacuum leak test today. I did a very thorough check and the only place I would get a stumble at idle was at this port valve circled in red. Had my daughter run the engine up to 2k RPM and no stumble at that port valve.

[KRAM36]

I also rechecked the KRAT numbers, they have changed, but still way off. Possible the Porsche Fualt Code 45 Cat Conv. Efficiency Bank 2 could be causing this high number on bank 2?

[KRAM36]

Just went out and checked some numbers this morning.

[edc]

Here's an AFR plot from a dyno for comparison. 4th gear WOT.

[KRAM36]

Where would I look for to fix the fuel tank ventilation?

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

Yes. The tip will handle more power than a manual.

That's nice to know, thanks.

After the intake upgrade, I'm not sure if I would want 400HP lol. The car is getting down the road is a massive hurry right now and I still have the headers, cat delete pipes and Borla exhaust to do. Also thinking of opening up the intake pipe some more along with a tune.

I was looking at 330HP to put the car on par with the new 2015 Mustang GT hp to weight ratio. I think my car would actually need 343HP to achieve that.

EDIT: Side note: I am looking at some light weight wheels right now and the exhaust change should lighten the car up a bit.


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[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by KRAM36

Where would I look for to fix the fuel tank ventilation?

Fuel ventilation is the EVAP system.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Fuel ventilation is the EVAP system.

Thanks JFP in PA. I looked at this article on Pelican.

Pelican Porsche Tech Article - Replacing Your 996 Fuel Line Vent Valve / Bleeder Valve - Porsche 911 Carrera & 986 Boxster - Porsche 996 Carrera (1998-2005)

I do not get any of these symptoms and never had a fault code show up on the Durametric from it.

If you are having trouble filling up your car with gas, your check engine light keeps coming on, your car will not enter a “ready state” for a smog test, or you hear a howling sound like someone is blowing across the top of a Coca-Cola bottle you may have a faulty fuel line vent valve.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by KRAM36

Thanks JFP in PA. I looked at this article on Pelican.

Pelican Porsche Tech Article - Replacing Your 996 Fuel Line Vent Valve / Bleeder Valve - Porsche 911 Carrera & 986 Boxster - Porsche 996 Carrera (1998-2005)

I do not get any of these symptoms and never had a fault code show up on the Durametric from it.

The system in your car is a little more complicated than just the one valve that was covered in that article:

[KRAM36]

I'm not sure where to go from here. It seems if you have a EVAP issue your car will throw a fault code. I also read it could be the gas cap or from over filling the tank. When I fill up with gas I stop when the gas handle clicks off.

EDIT: Just went out and looked at my gas cap. The seal ring has several cracks in it, a couple of them at least 2mm wide.


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[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by KRAM36

I'm not sure where to go from here. It seems if you have a EVAP issue your car will throw a fault code. I also read it could be the gas cap or from over filling the tank. When I fill up with gas I stop when the gas handle clicks off.

EDIT: Just went out and looked at my gas cap. The seal ring has several cracks in it, a couple of them at least 2mm wide.


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EVAP systems can remain is the "fail" or "not ready" state for prolonged periods after code resets, battery swaps, etc. without registering a hard code or a MIL. If you do a search on the subject of getting the DME to reset itself before going to emissions inspection, you will find that some people had to drive the car for several or even many driving cycles and miles before everything reset to "ready"; during which time the car registered "fail" on the readiness test, but threw no codes, so do not expect the car to quickly clear itself if it is something as simple as a gas cap.

[KRAM36]

Roger that. Thanks!

EDIT: JFP if I still have your attention, what do you make of the RKAT numbers being so far off? I checked for air leaks and only found that one port valve that would stumble the idle.

Also Duramtric shows misfires in cylinder 3. I changed the coil and plug, but still get the misfires at idel. It's not throwing a code for the misfires and on the highway it never showed a misfire for about a 25 min drive, could it be the fuel injector?


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