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Old 10-21-2014, 09:13 AM   #1
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P1341 - Looking for NE Atlanta area indy and/or advice

I've been 'fighting' (clearing) this code on my '01 (5-spd) for months. I'll clear everything, make a few 5-10 mile drives, then the same code throws again. I've done some reading around and I see the diagnosis is "Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 Below Limit". I talked to my local big shop yesterday and was told this is likely either the Cam Position Sensor (~$500 job) or VarioCam unit (~$2500 job )...both a little pricey on a college budget, a VarioCam diagnosis would likely require me to sell the car or some body organs, neither of which I want to do, especially selling the car!!

I wanted to check here and see if you all had any suggestions for anything else I can look at to be sure I'm not just throwing away money. I don't have Durametric, but was also curious if there was any way I could diagnose this with other tools (I have basic code scanner, multi-meter, standard tools, etc.). I consider myself pretty mechanically savvy, just not sure what I'd be looking for on this one.

Let me know if you all can think of anything else I can look at before I take this to a shop for the Durametric testing...also, looking for any suggestions for Atlanta area shops or indys that anyone could suggest for a job like this.

Things I have tried as suggested here: cleaned MAF, changed oil, cleaned terminals on Cam Sensor.

Last edited by halffast986; 10-21-2014 at 09:15 AM. Reason: title change
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:55 AM   #2
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P1341
No triggering of the actuator, active position nevertheless.
Short to ground
Actuator faulty
Triggering of the actuator, no active position Open circuit in triggering wire
Open circuit in B+ supply
Actuator faulty
No active or passive position is detected
Actuator faulty

Comes down to wiring or actuator.
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Old 10-21-2014, 12:12 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefocke View Post
P1341
No triggering of the actuator, active position nevertheless.
– Short to ground
– Actuator faulty
Triggering of the actuator, no active position – Open circuit in triggering wire
– Open circuit in B+ supply
– Actuator faulty
No active or passive position is detected
– Actuator faulty

Comes down to wiring or actuator.
So could this be the Cam Position Sensor itself? Not possible, not likely? Would that be throwing a separate/additional code if so, or would that just fall under the "Open circuit in triggering wire" part of the 1341 code?

Thanks a lot for the reply Mike, I've used your site many many times BTW!!

Last edited by halffast986; 10-22-2014 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 10-23-2014, 06:15 PM   #4
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Update

Just wanted to share this update for anyone else who may be researching this issue. I've taken the car to a local shop and received the following diagnosis:

"Tech states that camshafts on bank are adjusting, at 3000 RPM there is 10 degree difference in cam timing between bank one and two. Oil filter contains traces of trash/debris, possible timing chain issue. Will need to remove oil sump cover and cam covers to inspect timing chains"
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Old 10-24-2014, 02:53 AM   #5
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What shop is doing the analysis ?
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Old 10-24-2014, 03:26 AM   #6
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I hate to say this but these are signs of failing IMS. Bank 1 adjusts off IMS end of shaft. Looseness in the bearing will cause this deviation. Wear in the bearing will cause the debris in filter. The main chain can also get loose and transmit some timing error to Bank 2 but it will be less.

I haven't seen the car so get another opinion. Removing the pan will give a better idea of how much debris is in the motor and what type. Pull the scavenge pump bank 1 and move the cam manually back and forth to check play in the chains.
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Old 10-24-2014, 05:43 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc View Post
What shop is doing the analysis ?
The car was taken to European Motor Cars in Duluth. Have you heard of them? They have a few locations in N. Atlanta area. I wasn't sure where to take it but I've gotten parts from them in the past and they seemed knowledgeable both times.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jsceash View Post
I hate to say this but these are signs of failing IMS. Bank 1 adjusts off IMS end of shaft. Looseness in the bearing will cause this deviation. Wear in the bearing will cause the debris in filter. The main chain can also get loose and transmit some timing error to Bank 2 but it will be less.

I haven't seen the car so get another opinion. Removing the pan will give a better idea of how much debris is in the motor and what type. Pull the scavenge pump bank 1 and move the cam manually back and forth to check play in the chains.
Thanks for the good info. The mechanic mentioned IMS too when I picked it up, that must have been what he was getting at. I see the relation now. The car has always had a little rattle but I figured it was exhaust shields, could an IMS rattle for 50k miles without exploding?

At this point, I've parked the car and have listed it for sale (is $4500 a fair price?). Regardless of the diagnosis, I don't have the budget for repairs and need a car ASAP.
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Old 10-24-2014, 06:39 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by halffast986 View Post
The car was taken to European Motor Cars in Duluth. Have you heard of them? They have a few locations in N. Atlanta area. I wasn't sure where to take it but I've gotten parts from them in the past and they seemed knowledgeable both times.



Thanks for the good info. The mechanic mentioned IMS too when I picked it up, that must have been what he was getting at. I see the relation now. The car has always had a little rattle but I figured it was exhaust shields, could an IMS rattle for 50k miles without exploding?

At this point, I've parked the car and have listed it for sale (is $4500 a fair price?). Regardless of the diagnosis, I don't have the budget for repairs and need a car ASAP.
I have not heard of them but that doesn't mean anything. You are going to disclose to potential buyers that there are issues correct ?
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:45 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc View Post
...You are going to disclose to potential buyers that there are issues correct ?
Absolutely, letting them know everything I do, including this thread. I'm also hearing <$4000 is more in line with reasonable pricing for a model in this condition. I paid $12.5k for the car 3 years ago


Sale listing is here if anyone might be interested. - SOLD, thanks for the help and advice over the many years guys, hope to be back sooner or later!!

Last edited by halffast986; 10-26-2014 at 05:39 PM.
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