How to diagnose and resolve engine issues using Durametric.

[Reebuck1]

Maybe the DME hit it's learning time set and brought the car back to the original programing. Not sure of the time frames for each or all the adjustments. Have had problems that were corrected during an extended test drive as the computer learns and adjusts the cars program.

[jb92563]

Originally Posted by Reebuck1

Maybe the DME hit it's learning time set and brought the car back to the original programing. Not sure of the time frames for each or all the adjustments. Have had problems that were corrected during an extended test drive as the computer learns and adjusts the cars program.

I'll try putting some miles on it and see what happens. My new Triple A card just arrived, it must be a sign from the Porsche Gods to just go for it!

[Melb boy]

Hi Guys
I just came across this and thought,are these fly by wire gas pedals,ie: No throttle cable,if so maybe it's something to do with the operation of that,connection,wear etc as it is in a position that gets dirty and used all the time,and just thinking that there are mods available to plug into electronic gas pedals to increase response so maybe that's a possibility

[wawa]

Hi

I dont have my 986 anymore, sold it for a brand new 981. But related to the egaz, my mechanic had change the tb to check for faulty egaz, but no change. But your problem really look like mine. You have done about everything
Il had try. I really hope you'll find out whats wrong.

Later

Wawa

[jb92563]

I did take apart the Throttle plate actuator and spray electronic contact cleaner on the wipers and there was no change.

I think I'll take the car for a spin tonight and go get some fresh fuel.

I can start driving it to work and see if the situation improves with the new battery and the computer relearning after resetting everything.

As I mentioned I was idling in the driveway looking at the Durametric data on the laptop when suddenly it started running consistent again. Perhaps the DME made a correction?

If it was the egas I would think that the problem would be consistent and not wandering idle and then suddently steady again.

However, problems do love to hide right under your nose in the most unexpected places and often the last thing you think it could be is precisely what it is.

[jb92563]

Update -

So since the last time the car shut down it was running perfectly.

I startup and everything runs perfect still, so I go to the gas station and fill the tank.

Upon restarting, it quickly stalls and then I try again and it starts but now its running horrible again with the wandering idle and hessitation when accelerating and just coasting along. No check engine lights and probably the same codes as before but I will check tonight.

I get a block from home at a light and it stalls.

My first attempt to restart and I get nothing when I turn the key, no clicks or starter turning...nothing.
Then I take a breath, wait a couple seconds and try again and it starts and runs perfectly again all the way home.

WTF is going on I'm in the pulling hair out realm now....damm F$%#@!*&^%$#%)%##

Any suggestions, I'm running out of ideas, or do I just give up and take it to an Indie at this point and hope they can figure it out?
Anyone know of an excellent shop that does Boxster work in my area?

Is my computer going bad? Is there a way to test it?

[jb92563]

Trying to apply logic which never seems to work with car problems like this:

The Facts:
Car runs perfectly at times and then suddenly it runs like crap with wandering idle, hesitation on acceleration, stalling at idle.
It seems that after it stalls and restarts it could go either way running good or crap again.

No Engine light is triggered.
Codes thrown are; P0102 MAF Low Input (connections/supply?),
P0507 Idle Speed too high (Wandering idle?).
P1571 Immobilizer - Open Circuit / No Signal

Since its my second new MAF I think I can rule out a faulty MAF as the source of the problem,

A faulty ground on the MAF or electrical is still a possibility but a low probability based on common issues I read here. Also I drive over some pretty bumpy roads and the faults do NOT correspond with vibrations making/breaking electrical conductivity so I'll rule that out as well for now.

Replaced AOS which had died and perhaps precipitated these issues?

Replaced Pre CAT sensors but no change there.

New Spark plugs and Coils look good and would be causing missfires if damaged and I am not getting misfires so cross the ignition section off the list.

New Fuel Filter, Checked Fuel pressure in the shop but not while driving and experiencing the hessitation so Fuel Pump is still a possibility.
The Fuel Pump relay can also be added to the potentials list since it is related.
Fuel flow is also good in the garage so that eliminates obstructed fuel lines and filters.

New Air Filter, better check the duct work for any obstructions just in case.
I have heard that turbulence at the MAF can cause problems and is why EVO intake folks sometimes experience MAF problems.

The battery had died while in the garage so it might have been weak, but its replaced now.

The computer ECU seems to work fine in every respect and the car still starts so the Computer is not fried,
however cold solder joints in the computer or loose ground connections to sensors is still possible but a low probability.
I did jiggle all the connectors leading into it and no changes were evident.

Vacuum leaks and smoke testing did not reveal any obvious leaks but that does not mean there is not a crack that could open up under real driving conditions and pressure, however nothing blatant was revealed as it was smoked from the intake side and through the Oil filler side with no leaks showing up under a few psi of pressure.

The only high probability items I can think of is the Fuel Pump and Ignition switch as many folks have done it from what I have read.

Those items don't seem to be monitored by any fault codes either so perhaps those should be my next efforts.

I have read that ignition switches going bad can produce all manner of strange issues but have absolutely no evidence or history pointing to the switch as suspect.

I have found a diagram showing the MAF pin-outs so I think I'll check that before buying more parts just in case its a faulty sensor ground connection or an out of spec supply voltage.



Looks like I'll have my 90,000 (Its only 72k on my odometer) mile service done by the time I replace all the wear and tear parts !
Should be good for another 10 years if the engine holds out.

[wawa]

I had change the fuel pump without any change. I had been told it usualy is not faulty, but I didnt want to take the chance.

You could try passing a second ground wire and run it for a time to see if it still happen?

Later

Wawa

[NewArt]

Yes!
Betcha it feels good to finally see positive results!

[jb92563]

Thanks for the support guys.

Its a great relief to have cleared that major hurdle without spending much $$$.

Now I'm reading about the Door lock issue and have found several tricks and background info on what that could be.

Apparently the Key FOB can loose its programming/sync at several levels and there are several ways to restore it.

Since I kept my original Key, but replaced the donor RFID pill and transmitter part I did not think there should be any issue like this.

It is possible that the button on the FOB may be faulty by one description that I read, and the donor car did crash so...

I'll document what I find here and especially if one of the DIY methods work.

Just an FYI, the Mileage on the car remained the same when I replaced the computer ECU. That info must be stored in the instrument clusters memory.

However all the other info like revs in various ranges, total hours, the VIN paint codes, options and other stuff are from the ECU.

I suppose I could get all that changed at the dealer but since Im not thinking of selling its of no consequence at this point. I'll add all that info to my documentation file though just in case its ever needed.

[jb92563]

Update: I have been having codes come up again P1133, P1126, P0507, P0420, P0102.

And its been running rough with hunting idle again. Other times it seems to run perfect and the codes go away.

So I suspected the MAF again although its only 6 months old and a couple hundred miles.

I opened the filter and looked inside and found bits dark schredded of paper/foil near the drain hole in the airbox on the clean side of the filter. I have no idea how that got in there but it may have fouled the MAF.

I sprayed the MAF with MAF Cleaner and also the plug contacts on the MAF and the Harness side.

I cleared the codes and now it runs perfect again with no codes. Hurray!
I hate that stupid MAF, its so temperamental.

Perhaps I need to buy one from a dealer next time as there are suggestions out there that the dealers get the better quality MAF's.
Seems implausible that the same SKU product comes in different grades. I'd be interested in the QC test parameters so we can measure for ourselves
to verify the unit is up to Porsche specs, what ever that may be.