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Old 12-01-2005, 06:40 AM   #1
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boots

I recommend pulling the axle and replacing both boots. That is what I did with mine. It looks like a big job at first, but it really is quite easy. I found it very helpful to remove the bolts from the exhaust header flange to exhaust pipe (3 each side) and swing the exhaust system out of the way. This afforded clearance to remove the shaft. Much easier to work with it on the bench. The torque spec on the axle is 320 ft/lbs. For removal I used a Snap-on breaker bar that I stood on. I borrowed a large torque wrench from a friend who works on trucks.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gharari
This is just awesome! Very much appreciated! Are you sure it's the same for the boxster though? I read somewhere that you have to unbolt the strut top.


Pics would be great. If you would prefer, you can email them to me.

A few questions...

is a 12 point hex tool necessary? I read something about that. I think on pelicanparts.com.

What is the torque spec on the inner allen bolts that bolt to the diff? Is a 3/8 inch hex socket the tool to use? Is there enough clearance to use that tool?
I recommend pulling the axle and replacing both boots. That is what I did with mine. It looks like a big job at first, but it really is quite easy. I found it very helpful to remove the bolts from the exhaust header flange to exhaust pipe (3 each side) and swing the exhaust system out of the way. This afforded clearance to remove the shaft. Much easier to work with it on the bench. The torque spec on the axle is 320 ft/lbs. For removal I used a Snap-on breaker bar that I stood on. I borrowed a large torque wrench from a friend who works on trucks.
If I only do inner, I don't need to remove the axle? If so, how do I get the joint off the axle to put the boot on?

What is the torque spec on the big axle bolts?

What tool should I use to losen the big axle bolts? big socket?

Is there a special method for packing the grease?

I thought I read something somewhere about a 350 lb/ torque spec on something. that right? I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high. who does????

does the diagonal strut need to be removed to get to the axel? Seems like it is in the way.

Does anyone have a manual that could fax/scan/email me a few pages?
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Old 12-01-2005, 08:33 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dklumb
The torque spec on the axle is 320 ft/lbs.
dklumb
This is for the large (30mmm?) nut accessible through the wheel center caps right?

I'm going to attempt this on Friday morning. There will be a lot of pressure on me to finish the job on Friday and get it right because we are auto-crossing the car Saturday (school) and Sunday (event).

deliriousga or dklumb: Would you be willing to be available by phone if I get stuck?
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Last edited by gharari; 12-01-2005 at 09:20 AM.
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Old 12-01-2005, 10:58 AM   #3
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I decided to start right now! Working on it...
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Old 12-01-2005, 11:09 AM   #4
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Just said a little prayer for you. I'm sure you'll get it done fast and right! Hope you took pix for posting for the rest of us!
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Old 12-01-2005, 11:42 AM   #5
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My cheapie impact wrench broke. Otherwise, going smoothly. I will take some pics.
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Old 12-01-2005, 04:08 PM   #6
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I finally got the right axel out. I spent a lot of time going back and forth to autozone (closest place) getting tools: impact wrench (mine broke), axel puller that was too small for the hub, then the right axel puller.

I ended up not having enough clearance to get the axel out of the hub and remove it. After trying various things, what ended up working was to remove several of the bolts from the rear skidplate and bending it down a few inches. This allowed for the inside CV joint to come down below the transmission and the axle to clear the hub. It was a major PITA.

Hopefully the left side will be easier.

I didn't see how moving the exhaust would have helped. It wasn't really in the way. If I could easily get that skidplate off this would be a much easier job. Porsche really made it difficult here. They sandwiched the skidplate between the chassis and the diagonal strut.

I'd better get to the office now. I am about 4-1/2 hours late! I'm off tomorrow so hopefully I can finish it up.
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Last edited by gharari; 12-01-2005 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 12-02-2005, 06:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gharari
I finally got the right axel out. I spent a lot of time going back and forth to autozone (closest place) getting tools: impact wrench (mine broke), axel puller that was too small for the hub, then the right axel puller.

I ended up not having enough clearance to get the axel out of the hub and remove it. After trying various things, what ended up working was to remove several of the bolts from the rear skidplate and bending it down a few inches. This allowed for the inside CV joint to come down below the transmission and the axle to clear the hub. It was a major PITA.

Hopefully the left side will be easier.

I didn't see how moving the exhaust would have helped. It wasn't really in the way. If I could easily get that skidplate off this would be a much easier job. Porsche really made it difficult here. They sandwiched the skidplate between the chassis and the diagonal strut.

I'd better get to the office now. I am about 4-1/2 hours late! I'm off tomorrow so hopefully I can finish it up.
Sorry, I have been extremely busy at work and unable to get back here. I will have ours up in the air tomorrow so I can take a look and compare it to the 928. It's easy to remove the skid plate. There are only about 8 bolts holding it on (all 15mm IIRC). If you have it on stands, just remove all of the bolts from the plate then loosen the two on the front end of each cross brace that is bolted on top of the plate so it can come out. Those braces are for on-road structural integrity so it's ok to take them off when it's up on stands. When you put it back on, make sure you torque the bolts down properly. I can't remember off-hand, but I'll look up the torque for 15mm bolts and post it in the morning.
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Old 12-01-2005, 08:32 PM   #8
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Bump! Any more tips for me? I'm having trouble with this job.
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