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Old 11-30-2005, 04:01 PM   #1
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CV joints and axles

Anyone know how to replace the inside CV boots? I need to do this and am debating on whether or not to attempt this myself. My mechanic wants $450 including parts. I am told the parts are $90 for two CV boots.

If anyone has instructions, photos, or diagrams, and is willing to email them to me, that would be much appreciated!

gharari@cox.net

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Old 11-30-2005, 04:42 PM   #2
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gharari, here is good info about the CV Boots from the PCA Tech site:


"The replacement would depend on what the definition of leaking is. Should the boot become completely compromised allowing the grease to be expelled from the CV then it should be replaced. The boot not only retains the grease in the CV but it also keeps out foreign material such as dirt and sand. The dirt and sand mixed in the grease can be as devastating as it being un-lubricated.
The boot can also leak from the ends by the clamps. Under a condition such as this would not require a full replacement. The reason being is that the CV has not been exposed to the outside elements or suffered substantial grease loss.


Scott Slauson - PCA WebSite - 11/17/2004"


gharari, are your boots just leaking? Or is the joint exposed??
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Old 11-30-2005, 04:46 PM   #3
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gharari, here is another thing to consider:


"The outer joints are not to be removed. You can clean and grease them on the shaft. Should an outer CV joint go bad you will have to replace the entire axle.

Scott Slauson - PCA WebSite - 6/25/2004"
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Old 11-30-2005, 04:52 PM   #4
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I need new inside boots (outsides look fine). The inside boots are broken and the joint is exposed. I need instructions for disconnecting the joint, cleaning it , replacing the boot, and repacking the grease. Additionally I need to know what needs to be removed in order to get to it, what tools are required, and how long it is expected to take. I also understand that one side is a lot harder to get to than the other, although at first glance, both look difficult.

So, if anyone has some instructions, please email them to me. Email address is in my original post. Thanks everyone!
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Old 11-30-2005, 06:34 PM   #5
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gharari, maybe the $450 price from your mechanic is a good deal. Your time is worth a lot too. Maybe you can save a little by providing your own parts, through Suncoast for example, if your mechanic would allow this.
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Old 11-30-2005, 06:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmussatti
gharari, maybe the $450 price from your mechanic is a good deal. Your time is worth a lot too. Maybe you can save a little by providing your own parts, through Suncoast for example, if your mechanic would allow this.
That's no fun!
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Old 11-30-2005, 07:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gharari
Anyone know how to replace the inside CV boots? I need to do this and am debating on whether or not to attempt this myself. My mechanic wants $450 including parts. I am told the parts are $90 for two CV boots.

If anyone has instructions, photos, or diagrams, and is willing to email them to me, that would be much appreciated!

gharari@cox.net
It's easy to do and takes about 1 1/2 hours per side.

One thing to consider WYAIT. Though it can be done, it's really difficult to replace the boot while you're laying under the car so it's better to just take the axel off. While it's off, go ahead and do the outside so you don't have to go through it all over again in a few thousand miles.

Parts:
1) Boot kit (should have boots, clamps, circlip and grease packets). Check with http://www.sunsetporsche.com for a much better price than local dealers.
2) Moly grease (dealer has it for $25. It's a small tube, but it will last you a life time.
3) Several cans of brake or parts cleaner.

Tools:
1) Allen socket set and allen wrench set.
2) 3/4" ratchet or breaker bar and large axle socket. You can rent these for free at AutoZone and they can look up the exact socket size there.
3) Brass punch set ($15 at Northern Tools) and hammer (mini sledge is best for weight and balance).


How to replace the boots:
If you plan to replace the inner and outer, go to step 2 first, then return to 1.

1) It's easier to do if you lift the car enough to get under it on a creeper. The inner axle is held on by 6-8 allen bolts (I believe they're 8mm). Lock the wheels with the parking brake and put it in 5th gear then remove the bolts.

2) The outer axle is held on with a single, large nut (30mm+). If you're doing both sides, make sure you loosen both rear axle nuts before lifting the car. It's easiest and safer for the tranny to take the center cap off of the wheel and leave the car on the ground when you take that nut off. Once the nut's off, and the inner jont is unbolted, you can push the axel toward the inside through the hub. A brass punch ($15 at norther tool for a set) can be used on the center of the axle to break it loose if it's stuck.

3) Once the axle is off, you need to remove the inner joint. There's a circlip holding it on that needs to be removed first. After that, pop the clips off the boot and slide it toward the middle of the axle a little. Next, you'll probably need to put the axle in a table vice (with soft jaws so you don't tear up the axel) and use a brass punch to knock the joint off the end. Make sure you put the joint as close to the axle as possible to keep from hitting one of the large ball bearings and damaging it. It can take some force, so don't be surprised with that. Also, be careful once the joint is off. If you turn the inside of the joint about 60 degrees, the bearings can fall out and you have to figure out how to put them back in correctly.

4) Once the inner joint is off the axle, you can slide the inner boot off. Next, if you're doing the outer joint, remove the clips for the outer joint and slide the boot off the inner axel. You don't have to remove the outer joint.

5) Clean the joints well. You can use brake cleaner to do this (with rubber gloves) or get a can of parts cleaner. There are no rubber parts left on the axle so you won't damage anything. Let everything dry completely before you put it all back together.

6) Slide the new outer boot on if replacing it, then put the grease in the boot and seal it up according to the instructions. You'll need a set of clamping pliers for the metal clamp that holds the boots on if you don't have one.

7) For the inner boot, slide the boot on first. Take an old toothbrush and put a thin layer of the moly grease on the splines where the inner joint goes back on the axle. Put the inner joint back on (you may need to put the axle back in the vice and use a large socket to pop it all the way on). Make sure whatever you use to pop it back on is centered. Otherwise the joint will go on a little crooked and be difficult to get all the way on.

8) Once it's on, fill the boot and joint with grease and seal the boot onto the joint according to the directions.

9) Before putting the axle back on, put some moly grease on the outer splines. The axle will most likely slide into the hub easily, then you can put the bolts back into the inner joint. Put the axle nut on and tighten it down to about 100 ft lbs. Put the tires back on, but not the center caps, lower the car and tighten the axle nut all the way. Drive around a couple of miles, then tighten the axle nut again and you're done.

I have pictures from when I did this on the 928 if you want them. It's the same procedure, just looks different underneath.

Please chime in if I left anything out or there are any short cuts I don't know about.

Hope it helps.
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Old 11-30-2005, 09:07 PM   #8
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This is just awesome! Very much appreciated! Are you sure it's the same for the boxster though? I read somewhere that you have to unbolt the strut top.


Pics would be great. If you would prefer, you can email them to me.

A few questions...

is a 12 point hex tool necessary? I read something about that. I think on pelicanparts.com.

What is the torque spec on the inner allen bolts that bolt to the diff? Is a 3/8 inch hex socket the tool to use? Is there enough clearance to use that tool?

If I only do inner, I don't need to remove the axle? If so, how do I get the joint off the axle to put the boot on?

What is the torque spec on the big axle bolts?

What tool should I use to losen the big axle bolts? big socket?

Is there a special method for packing the grease?

I thought I read something somewhere about a 350 lb/ torque spec on something. that right? I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high. who does????

does the diagonal strut need to be removed to get to the axel? Seems like it is in the way.

Does anyone have a manual that could fax/scan/email me a few pages?
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Old 12-01-2005, 05:40 AM   #9
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boots

I recommend pulling the axle and replacing both boots. That is what I did with mine. It looks like a big job at first, but it really is quite easy. I found it very helpful to remove the bolts from the exhaust header flange to exhaust pipe (3 each side) and swing the exhaust system out of the way. This afforded clearance to remove the shaft. Much easier to work with it on the bench. The torque spec on the axle is 320 ft/lbs. For removal I used a Snap-on breaker bar that I stood on. I borrowed a large torque wrench from a friend who works on trucks.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gharari
This is just awesome! Very much appreciated! Are you sure it's the same for the boxster though? I read somewhere that you have to unbolt the strut top.


Pics would be great. If you would prefer, you can email them to me.

A few questions...

is a 12 point hex tool necessary? I read something about that. I think on pelicanparts.com.

What is the torque spec on the inner allen bolts that bolt to the diff? Is a 3/8 inch hex socket the tool to use? Is there enough clearance to use that tool?
I recommend pulling the axle and replacing both boots. That is what I did with mine. It looks like a big job at first, but it really is quite easy. I found it very helpful to remove the bolts from the exhaust header flange to exhaust pipe (3 each side) and swing the exhaust system out of the way. This afforded clearance to remove the shaft. Much easier to work with it on the bench. The torque spec on the axle is 320 ft/lbs. For removal I used a Snap-on breaker bar that I stood on. I borrowed a large torque wrench from a friend who works on trucks.
If I only do inner, I don't need to remove the axle? If so, how do I get the joint off the axle to put the boot on?

What is the torque spec on the big axle bolts?

What tool should I use to losen the big axle bolts? big socket?

Is there a special method for packing the grease?

I thought I read something somewhere about a 350 lb/ torque spec on something. that right? I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high. who does????

does the diagonal strut need to be removed to get to the axel? Seems like it is in the way.

Does anyone have a manual that could fax/scan/email me a few pages?
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Old 12-01-2005, 07:33 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dklumb
The torque spec on the axle is 320 ft/lbs.
dklumb
This is for the large (30mmm?) nut accessible through the wheel center caps right?

I'm going to attempt this on Friday morning. There will be a lot of pressure on me to finish the job on Friday and get it right because we are auto-crossing the car Saturday (school) and Sunday (event).

deliriousga or dklumb: Would you be willing to be available by phone if I get stuck?
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Last edited by gharari; 12-01-2005 at 08:20 AM.
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Old 12-01-2005, 09:58 AM   #11
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I decided to start right now! Working on it...
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Old 12-01-2005, 10:09 AM   #12
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Just said a little prayer for you. I'm sure you'll get it done fast and right! Hope you took pix for posting for the rest of us!
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Old 12-01-2005, 10:42 AM   #13
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My cheapie impact wrench broke. Otherwise, going smoothly. I will take some pics.
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Old 12-01-2005, 03:08 PM   #14
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I finally got the right axel out. I spent a lot of time going back and forth to autozone (closest place) getting tools: impact wrench (mine broke), axel puller that was too small for the hub, then the right axel puller.

I ended up not having enough clearance to get the axel out of the hub and remove it. After trying various things, what ended up working was to remove several of the bolts from the rear skidplate and bending it down a few inches. This allowed for the inside CV joint to come down below the transmission and the axle to clear the hub. It was a major PITA.

Hopefully the left side will be easier.

I didn't see how moving the exhaust would have helped. It wasn't really in the way. If I could easily get that skidplate off this would be a much easier job. Porsche really made it difficult here. They sandwiched the skidplate between the chassis and the diagonal strut.

I'd better get to the office now. I am about 4-1/2 hours late! I'm off tomorrow so hopefully I can finish it up.
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Last edited by gharari; 12-01-2005 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 12-01-2005, 07:32 PM   #15
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Bump! Any more tips for me? I'm having trouble with this job.
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Old 12-02-2005, 05:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gharari
I finally got the right axel out. I spent a lot of time going back and forth to autozone (closest place) getting tools: impact wrench (mine broke), axel puller that was too small for the hub, then the right axel puller.

I ended up not having enough clearance to get the axel out of the hub and remove it. After trying various things, what ended up working was to remove several of the bolts from the rear skidplate and bending it down a few inches. This allowed for the inside CV joint to come down below the transmission and the axle to clear the hub. It was a major PITA.

Hopefully the left side will be easier.

I didn't see how moving the exhaust would have helped. It wasn't really in the way. If I could easily get that skidplate off this would be a much easier job. Porsche really made it difficult here. They sandwiched the skidplate between the chassis and the diagonal strut.

I'd better get to the office now. I am about 4-1/2 hours late! I'm off tomorrow so hopefully I can finish it up.
Sorry, I have been extremely busy at work and unable to get back here. I will have ours up in the air tomorrow so I can take a look and compare it to the 928. It's easy to remove the skid plate. There are only about 8 bolts holding it on (all 15mm IIRC). If you have it on stands, just remove all of the bolts from the plate then loosen the two on the front end of each cross brace that is bolted on top of the plate so it can come out. Those braces are for on-road structural integrity so it's ok to take them off when it's up on stands. When you put it back on, make sure you torque the bolts down properly. I can't remember off-hand, but I'll look up the torque for 15mm bolts and post it in the morning.
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Old 12-03-2005, 01:18 PM   #17
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The job's done. I used the same technique (bending the skid plate down) for the right side as well. The left side required ubolting the exhaust header flange so that the exhaust could drop down an inch to clear the axel.

I tried ubolting the cross brace where it was bolted to the skid plate and banging the studs out, but the studs wouldn't budge. I was hoping to bang those studs out and slide the skid plate out from between the cross brace and chasis. No go.

Out of frustration and worry that I wouldn't get the job done in time for today's Auto-x driving school, I failed to take pictures. I inended to write up instructions with pics.

I still may do that using pics the next time I change oil.

If anyone needs help with this job, feel free to PM me.
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Old 12-03-2005, 04:52 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gharari
I tried ubolting the cross brace where it was bolted to the skid plate and banging the studs out, but the studs wouldn't budge. I was hoping to bang those studs out and slide the skid plate out from between the cross brace and chasis. No go.
If you remove the cross braces completely then you can get the plate out by prying with a large screwdriver. Be careful not to bend it as the plate is part of the structural reinforcement.

Glad to hear you got it done. Congrats!
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Old 12-03-2005, 04:55 PM   #19
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If you remove the cross braces completely then you can get the plate out by prying with a large screwdriver.
Glad to hear you got it done. Congrats!
Thanks for the congrats. How should the cross braces be removed? Is that safe to do when the car is on jackstands? Will that cause anything else to move out of place? IS there a write-up somewhere on how to do that?
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Old 12-03-2005, 08:29 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gharari
Thanks for the congrats. How should the cross braces be removed? Is that safe to do when the car is on jackstands? Will that cause anything else to move out of place? IS there a write-up somewhere on how to do that?
I'll have to take pics of the cross braces I'm talking about to make sure we're looking at the same ones before I say yes. I have removed the ones that make a "V" and bolt over the front of the skid plate with no problems and nothing moving. AllData says it's ok to remove those braces with the car on stands under the normal jacking points. Those braces keep the differential from shifting right and left as you are driving. There is no write-up that I know of, but if you just remove the 5 bolts on each of the braces and the two nuts holding the skid plate, then you can use a large, flat head screwdriver under the lip of the skid plate to pop it off. Once it's off, drill slightly larger holes where the two original holes are that go on the studs and it will be easier to put it on and take it off later.

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