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Old 11-20-2012, 02:29 PM   #1
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Oh, what about the waterpump? General consensus is to replace it every 5 years, 50k miles or so as a wear item. Once you have the motor mount out, the access to the WP is a breeze and makes it a really easy job.
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:06 PM   #2
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Hi San.
Water pump was replaced last summer (2K miles ago), along with all rear water hoses, screws, guskets, and LN low temp thermostat.
Also flashed the system, and filled it with the new red coolant.
Smart thought though. Shuld have done the engine mount back then, but I was still a nooby.
As for the 2X4. It might work, but for the price of the support bar, I might just do it the right way.

Thanks.

Last edited by Meir; 11-20-2012 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:09 AM   #3
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The Aluminum scissor jack the car came with is free and should make an excellent support as long as the car isn't too high off the ground to use it.
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:49 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostrider 310 View Post
The Aluminum scissor jack the car came with is free and should make an excellent support as long as the car isn't too high off the ground to use it.
yes.
but this is what my wife bought me as Christmas gift (well, Hanuka in my case ):










Last edited by Meir; 11-21-2012 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:37 AM   #5
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Wow that's pretty sick, you might as well spring for the inside the engine bay support then.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:54 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Ghostrider 310 View Post
Wow that's pretty sick, you might as well spring for the inside the engine bay support then.
ya. got a 15% coupon from Harbor fright. gonna drive there now.
should be less then 50$ with the coupon.
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Old 11-22-2012, 07:53 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meir View Post
yes.
but this is what my wife bought me as Christmas gift (well, Hanuka in my case ):









Must be nice! That's pretty sweet!
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:10 PM   #8
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There are two things I truly hate doing on my car.
Jacking it up, and washing it.
One problem is solved. Now need to think of a solution for the other one.
@ Kenny. I was dreaming of buying this thing for over a year now.
Did a very thorough research. Found the HF one to be most bang or the money.
They usually sale them for 1400$ + 90$ shipping. They drop the price at labor day by 200$. I found a 20% coupon online, and got it for 1100$ shipped.
It's not perfect, but with some medications it will be ( the story of my life)
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Old 11-23-2012, 01:55 PM   #9
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Be careful with the Loctite on the oil pan. If you put too much on it and it squeezes off inside the sump it can get sucked up into the engine, you will blow the motor. Also, make sure you torque the nuts down according to specs.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:51 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by navyc130fe View Post
Be careful with the Loctite on the oil pan. If you put too much on it and it squeezes off inside the sump it can get sucked up into the engine, you will blow the motor. Also, make sure you torque the nuts down according to specs.
Advise taken.
Thanks.
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Old 12-03-2012, 10:08 AM   #11
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so as the temperatures drooped and i can stay in my garage over an hour without the fear of dehydration, i decided to start my winter project this Sunday.
started by removing rear wheels, under body plastic covers,and the top clam shell (or whatever its called) also removed all trunk trim, and toke the opportunity to channel some wires from the driver compartment to the trunk (for a different project).
some pics:






the reason from removing the clam shell, is to provide me with enough space to mount the engine support bar.
i started buy putting the clam shell in the full service mode, but then found out it might hit the garage door opener mechanistic when i lift the car up
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Old 12-03-2012, 10:31 AM   #12
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just for future reference, if someone need to channel wires from the driver compartment to the trunk, here is the process.
1. remove side cover behind driver seat (next to seat belt) by removing one Phillips screw, and pulling up.
2. disconnect defroster wires, and set aside the panel.
3. use a flexible plastic rod and channel it from the top of the main wire harness.
you will have to move the isolation foam aside to get to the passage.





4. to "fish" the plastic rod on the other side, you will have to put the top in service mode, carefully remove the foam on the driver side rear corner.



as you can see from the pic, there are two layers of foam needed to be moved.

5. place the wires under the foam, and put it back in place.

6. channel the wires to the trunk.







i think this procedure can also be very helpful for someone who wants to install the IMS guardian.
once you are in the trunk, there are several OEM rubber grommet , that can help to channel the wires to the oil drain plug.
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