Top Speed Bypass pipes initial impression

[shadrach74]

I installed my bypass pipes yesterday. The good news is that I was able to get them installed, but it required loosening all of the exhaust joints between the muffler and the bypass pipes. The bad news is that the bends are not the exact proper angles for my stock exhaust. I do not like the amount of stress on the system to "make" it fit. I really had to manhandle the muffler pipes to get the slip joints in place and that was with the flange bolts completely loose. The gaps at the flange befor tightening were big! Further more, I have a slight leak that is very perceptible at idle. This gives it a bit of a "fart can" civic sound which I dislike. In terms of power, it's hard to tell. It's been pouring here so I can't really get my foot in it without breaking the ass end loose. I will report more on it this week as I decide whether to keep them or take them off...

[BTEMY]

I have a m2 headers and exhaust, planning to install them this weekend. Looking to buy the midpipes for the whole exhaust installation.

Where should I purchase them? How much should I expect to pay?

Any points on my upcoming installation?

thanks

[shadrach74]

BTEMY,

If you have existing aftermarket exhaust pieces, I think you should purchase all additional parts form the same vendor if possible. It's hard enough to ensure a good fit without throwing multiple manufacturers into the mix.

First, spray penetrating lubricant on all fasteners the night before. PB Blaster will work, but it's at the bottom of the quality spectrum of penetrating oils though a bit better than WD40. I use Mouse Milk or Kroil, which are both very high quality aviation grade products that out perform the other stuff on the market by a large margin. A 1 to 1 mix of ATF and Acetone is about as good a penetrant as anything.

As far as disassembly, I would suggest separating all "slip joints" (between midpipe and muffler) and thoroughly cleaning them with a brass brush (a brass wire wheel on a drill is the way to go). Make sure you have some high temp anti-seize on hand and coat the mating surfaces of the slip joints generously.

If you do the above, it will make articulating the slip joints much easier and help to ensure that everything can move as you position the exhaust.

Fit everything loosely and the start tightening at the parting flange where the header meets the mid-pipe and move aft doing your best to make sure that the pipes are not binding (some of the connections may be slightly stressed, but try to keep it to a minimum).

Good luck!

[woodsman]

Just finished the install on otherwise stock exhaust. I had the muffler out already so I used 80 grit sandpaper to sand all joints smooth. Assembled complete, without tightening and was surprised when it all came together- the pipes weren't bent perfectly but eventually they fit. Snugged everything evenly all round until tight. There's a very slight leak on either side due to the slots cut into each bypass pipe and the failure of the supplied clamps to cover them completely but I can't hear any noise from them.
After 3 days of driving, the results are significant. The sound is deeper and slightly louder-perfect for me! For the little money spent, I feel very happy with the outcome. Time will tell if the poor fit causes any damage- I don't expect it too though.