Top Speed Bypass pipes initial impression

[shadrach74]

Originally Posted by 2000boxster986

For anyone interested that's been following this thread. I plugged the Pedro mod exhaust tubes with super results. Now the TS bypass pipes are doing their job. Sound is nice and crisp without that straight pipe blow. Running the car up to about 4k makes a very sweet purr that a sports car should. Thanks Andy and Shadrach, you guys were right on.

Glad it worked out! Incidently, what method did you employ for blocking tubes?

[Homeboy981]

If you put on headers….are you still going to use those cats?

Don't most all aftermarket headers employ an O2 sensor fix that takes the sensor "out of the exhaust stream" in other words, doesn't it require an O2 sensor extension adapter?

And do these adapters throw a CEL? I was told they would not but I want the headers, not the CEL. I don't care about passing inspection - since they do not check it in my county. Will it work? Has someone done it here? Also, will it affect the computer by dumping more gas or leaning it out because of the reading the O2 sensors are now getting? Someone who has headers, can you ring in?

[2000boxster986]

Shadrach, I wanted to be able to undo the mod if needed. I built two plugs out of copper pipe and caps. Spun them down on the lathe to fit the holes and then used pop rivets to hold them in place (although they did fit pretty tight). I haven't as yet but will shoot them with a little black header paint and they won't been seen. Pic attached isn't great but shows the caps.

Homeboy, I'm running stock exhaust manifold. Headers may come later. I have a 2000 so the post cats do not have O2 bungs. With the TS pipes added the car does breathe much better. Throttle response is really nice. So far there have been no codes.

[shadrach74]

Originally Posted by 2000boxster986

Shadrach, I wanted to be able to undo the mod if needed. I built two plugs out of copper pipe and caps. Spun them down on the lathe to fit the holes and then used pop rivets to hold them in place (although they did fit pretty tight). I haven't as yet but will shoot them with a little black header paint and they won't been seen. Pic attached isn't great but shows the caps.

Homeboy, I'm running stock exhaust manifold. Headers may come later. I have a 2000 so the post cats do not have O2 bungs. With the TS pipes added the car does breathe much better. Throttle response is really nice. So far there have been no codes.

The workmanship looks nice!

However, I would be concerned about galvanic corrosion. I'm not sure what Pedro's pipes are made of, but it's likely to be on the anodic side of copper. Steam on those early morning start ups will make a nice if not slightly acidic electrolyte...

[2000boxster986]

I agree, copper doesn't play well with some metals. The straight pipe tubes appear to be stainless. They were difficult to drill into. The actual plan here is to get an exhaust I'm happy with. Using the bypass pipe plugs and stock muffler is more of an exercise toward this goal. I just had so much blow by with the straight pipe mod and the bypass pipes it wasn't funny. This copper plug mods appears to be working so I'll likely fab some steel plugs in the near future. Copper was easy to work with so I figured I'd paint em black and run with them awhile. I've also been playing with a Stebro sport exhaust but since my car is a daily driver I didn't like the drone. So I removed the Stebro. I did put on dead pipes to try and overcome the drone but I don't think they're long or wide enough. So I'll either mod it again or sell it. Still on the fence on that one. Thanks for your input. I do agree.

[Autocrosser#73]

Originally Posted by 2000boxster986

Received a left and right pipes from Top-Speed with no issues. Overall quality appears to be good. However like others mine did not fit as well as I was hoping. I had to do some mods. Some of the proper fitment was hampered by the exhaust modes already done to the car before I bought it. I think it's called a Pedro exhaust mod etc... The Pedro mod has the 1" pipes welded to the U tubes and not the muffler inlet. So, they were unmovable, otherwise I might have been able to tilt the U tubes down for a better fit with the hardware received in the pipe kit.
I wound up using 1 3/4" ID x 2" OD reducers and 2" stainless flexible muffler pipe to get everything to work and to assure nothing was overstressed. I don't particularly like muffler clamps and bendable pipe for exhaust mods but check out the pics below. It's a solid fit and there are no leaks. I'm running stock manifolds with pre-cats.
I don't have the car off the rack as yet but did start it up and it sounds good.

Very nice photos...thanks for sharing your installation process with us! Where did you buy those flex pipes? I may need a pair too for my upcoming installation.

[shadrach74]

Steve,

I have 2 sets of TS test pipes at home waiting to be installed. The second set is slightly different from the first. I hope to install this weekend. I am hoping that I can make some combination of what I have work properly. I will post pics this weekend and send the unused pipes back to Che.

[jovie]

Are these test pipes will pass EMISION TEST (smog test)? does it create CEL? Does it sound better or it needs the whole catback exhaust? I just want to make sure I don't encounter minor erritating issues when I purchase and install it.

[Homeboy981]

Originally Posted by shadrach74

I have 2 sets of TS test pipes at home waiting to be installed. The second set is slightly different from the first. I hope to install this weekend. I am hoping that I can make some combination of what I have work properly. I will post pics this weekend and send the unused pipes back to Che.

Hi Shad,

Make sure the ones you put in look like this when you lay them out BEFORE installation. (they are laid out backwards in the photo FYI)

You should be able to do this with ONE SIDE to ensure you have the correct bends…


See how the FLANGE IS DIFFERENT? That IS PROOF POSITIVE you have the CORRECT PAIRS.

Good luck with the install. The best way to not have a problem with fitment is to mount loosely and then, once everything is "in the air" torque it down good and tight. Drive it long enough to warm up and then re-check tightness.

There will be some added sound and low end torque increase but your car will definutely 'breathe easier'. So will you!

Enjoy!

[shadrach74]

Hey Homie,

I definitely have 2 sets of left and right pipes. The Flanges are oriented correctly, but the bends vary somewhat from pipe to pipe...

Originally Posted by Homeboy981

Hi Shad,

Make sure the ones you put in look like this when you lay them out BEFORE installation. (they are laid out backwards in the photo FYI)

You should be able to do this with ONE SIDE to ensure you have the correct bends…


See how the FLANGE IS DIFFERENT? That IS PROOF POSITIVE you have the CORRECT PAIRS.

Good luck with the install. The best way to not have a problem with fitment is to mount loosely and then, once everything is "in the air" torque it down good and tight. Drive it long enough to warm up and then re-check tightness.

There will be some added sound and low end torque increase but your car will definutely 'breathe easier'. So will you!

Enjoy!

[shadrach74]

Originally Posted by jovie

Are these test pipes will pass EMISION TEST (smog test)? does it create CEL? Does it sound better or it needs the whole catback exhaust? I just want to make sure I don't encounter minor erritating issues when I purchase and install it.

The emissions issue will depend on how it is tested. If it's a simple OBD plug in test, than passing should be no sweat. If the emissions testing is done with a sniffer, then passing will depend upon state standards. I don't know how much work the secondary catalyst is actually doing, but I would expect to see some increase of unburned hydrocarbons (I doubt it's a significant increase) as a result of removing the secondary cat.

Mid pipes should not cause a CEL as the secondary cats they replace are unmetered.

WRT fitment issues, I would not expect any aftermarket part to fit perfectly without some degree of fettling. Sometimes things fit perfectly, sometimes not so much...

[jovie]

chad,

thanks.

[Homeboy981]

No CELs here and I have been running with the TS Bypass pipes for a few months and several thousand miles now. The secondary cats just seemed to be necessary in CA. I have not noticed any difference….except in PERFORMANCE from NOT HAVING them STRANGLE MY EXHAUST! The Cat Backs make the system IMHO.

The fitment was a little struggle, long since forgotten. "Fettling" would be a good word to describe it. However, if you have seen muffler shops install pipes they move 'em around quite a bit!

[shadrach74]

I installed my bypass pipes yesterday. The good news is that I was able to get them installed, but it required loosening all of the exhaust joints between the muffler and the bypass pipes. The bad news is that the bends are not the exact proper angles for my stock exhaust. I do not like the amount of stress on the system to "make" it fit. I really had to manhandle the muffler pipes to get the slip joints in place and that was with the flange bolts completely loose. The gaps at the flange befor tightening were big! Further more, I have a slight leak that is very perceptible at idle. This gives it a bit of a "fart can" civic sound which I dislike. In terms of power, it's hard to tell. It's been pouring here so I can't really get my foot in it without breaking the ass end loose. I will report more on it this week as I decide whether to keep them or take them off...

[BTEMY]

I have a m2 headers and exhaust, planning to install them this weekend. Looking to buy the midpipes for the whole exhaust installation.

Where should I purchase them? How much should I expect to pay?

Any points on my upcoming installation?

thanks

[shadrach74]

BTEMY,

If you have existing aftermarket exhaust pieces, I think you should purchase all additional parts form the same vendor if possible. It's hard enough to ensure a good fit without throwing multiple manufacturers into the mix.

First, spray penetrating lubricant on all fasteners the night before. PB Blaster will work, but it's at the bottom of the quality spectrum of penetrating oils though a bit better than WD40. I use Mouse Milk or Kroil, which are both very high quality aviation grade products that out perform the other stuff on the market by a large margin. A 1 to 1 mix of ATF and Acetone is about as good a penetrant as anything.

As far as disassembly, I would suggest separating all "slip joints" (between midpipe and muffler) and thoroughly cleaning them with a brass brush (a brass wire wheel on a drill is the way to go). Make sure you have some high temp anti-seize on hand and coat the mating surfaces of the slip joints generously.

If you do the above, it will make articulating the slip joints much easier and help to ensure that everything can move as you position the exhaust.

Fit everything loosely and the start tightening at the parting flange where the header meets the mid-pipe and move aft doing your best to make sure that the pipes are not binding (some of the connections may be slightly stressed, but try to keep it to a minimum).

Good luck!

[woodsman]

Just finished the install on otherwise stock exhaust. I had the muffler out already so I used 80 grit sandpaper to sand all joints smooth. Assembled complete, without tightening and was surprised when it all came together- the pipes weren't bent perfectly but eventually they fit. Snugged everything evenly all round until tight. There's a very slight leak on either side due to the slots cut into each bypass pipe and the failure of the supplied clamps to cover them completely but I can't hear any noise from them.
After 3 days of driving, the results are significant. The sound is deeper and slightly louder-perfect for me! For the little money spent, I feel very happy with the outcome. Time will tell if the poor fit causes any damage- I don't expect it too though.

[BruceH]

Try these clamps. They will seal that leak and slightly improve the sound

Here is where I found them:

EasySeal Exhaust Clamps: Torca EasySeal Clamps in Stainless Steel for Lap Joint Connections

[Van914]

Bought the clamps at O'Rilleys Autopatrs Store. $11 each.
Van914

[woodsman]

so you don't even have to remove the piping to install the clamps- excellent

thanks guys