CEL/Maf Cured

[walt2810]

Originally Posted by Johnny Danger

I'm not an expert, but typically when the MAF sensor has failed, it will trigger a CEL. That's not to say that a failing sensor will always immediately trigger a CEL. In any case, sometimes when a sensor has failed it will cause the ECU to put the vehicle in "limp" mode. Hopefully others who are more knowledgeable than me will chime in.

JD, thank you for all your input. "limp" mode is what it appears to be. Hope others can chime in, thanks for all your assistance

[mikefocke]

You could disconnect the MAF and still run at 70. Dirty but still run.

Once you disconnect the battery, you aren't running with learned long term trims but in a basic mode and it isn't unusual to have to go through days worth of runs before the ECU gets smart again.

You need to get the car read by an OBD2 reader and see if you can figure out the causes.

[walt2810]

Thanks for everyone's advice & knowledge on this MAF subject. Finally recevied a new Bosch MAF with 996.123 part # & new air filter (threw out the K&N). The car runs great now, haven't had performance like this in over 3 months. I guess the MAF must of been malfuntioning and causing the loss of power and rough idle.

The codes on the CEL were 1123, 1125, 1128, & 1130.

Also when comparing the old & new MAF, the old unit had a curved wire before the resistor? while the new unit has a perfectly straight wire.

[Bala]

Originally Posted by walt2810

Thanks for everyone's advice & knowledge on this MAF subject. Finally recevied a new Bosch MAF with 996.123 part # & new air filter (threw out the K&N). The car runs great now, haven't had performance like this in over 3 months. I guess the MAF must of been malfuntioning and causing the loss of power and rough idle.

The codes on the CEL were 1123, 1125, 1128, & 1130.

Also when comparing the old & new MAF, the old unit had a curved wire before the resistor? while the new unit has a perfectly straight wire.

I didn't pay attention to the wire but you should make sure the housing is exactly the same. Mine was different. Even though initially I thought the car ran fine, a few days later i realized it was lacking the power and very sluggish. Turned out they sent me the wrong MAF. New one is in and running good so far.

[walt2810]

Originally Posted by Bala

I didn't pay attention to the wire but you should make sure the housing is exactly the same. Mine was different. Even though initially I thought the car ran fine, a few days later i realized it was lacking the power and very sluggish. Turned out they sent me the wrong MAF. New one is in and running good so far.

The new MAF looked exactly like the old one & had the 123 part# for the 99 w/o egas so hope it stays working. The Bocsh MAF comes wrapped in a yellow box with the hologram sealed sticker to ensure it is an authetic part. part # on the box 0 208 217 007

keeping my fingers crossed

[58ceramicgreen]

Since this thread was just brought back up...I'll add to it, I'm about 1500 kms in on my $49 eBay MAF and the car is still running perfectly.