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Old 11-30-2010, 12:16 PM   #1
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Location: Freeport, New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insite
okay, update time! let's dive right in. when last i posted, i had an issue with some broken head studs. let's start there. these things were completely welded in place; no way to extract other than to drill.
....

this obviously took awhile. FYI, helicoils are awesome. they come in 1/2" deep inserts, but you can stack two, which is what i did in this case.
Insite:

Really, really excellent photos!

I went through something similar when installing headers in place of the stock exhaust manifold on a 10 year old Boxster. 4 of the 6 exhaust manifold bolts on the passenger side sheared off, the rest of them came out in one piece. I was able to drill in the center of each bolt until there were just threads left, at which point I was able to back some of them out and tap out the others.

Have you thought about installing studs onto the cylinder heads, instead of using bolts? After less than a year, the factory bolts that I used to install the new headers on my Boxster are already rusting, so I have sourced coated studs, phosphor bronze lock washers and brass nuts. I plan to replace the bolts with studs in the spring.

Thanks for taking the time to document your project so thoroughly!

Regards, Maurice.
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Old 11-30-2010, 12:48 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schoir
Have you thought about installing studs onto the cylinder heads, instead of using bolts? After less than a year, the factory bolts that I used to install the new headers on my Boxster are already rusting, so I have sourced coated studs, phosphor bronze lock washers and brass nuts. I plan to replace the bolts with studs in the spring.
i did think about using studs. i opted for ample amounts of anti-seize w/ the factory bolts. this has worked well for me in the past.

these particular bolts were by far the worst i've ever had to work. the bolts really somehow became part of the aluminum head. glad that's over.....
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'99 Boxster
3.4L Conversion

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/KMTGPR-1.jpg
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Old 11-30-2010, 01:18 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insite
i did think about using studs. i opted for ample amounts of anti-seize w/ the factory bolts. this has worked well for me in the past.

these particular bolts were by far the worst i've ever had to work. the bolts really somehow became part of the aluminum head. glad that's over.....
Insite:

I did the same with my new bolts... I actually think that I have more anti-seize compound than bolts in there at this time! LOL!

I hope I don't have a problem when I go to remove those then 1 1/2 year old bolts in the Spring. I don't want to go through that experience again!

Again, thanks for the excellent documentation and photos you are providing to the community.

Regards, Maurice.

Last edited by schoir; 11-30-2010 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 11-30-2010, 01:21 PM   #4
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i used anti-seize w/ my other motor with very good results. they backed out easily even after some corrosion.

this replacement motor was particularly bad; i think they degreased it & then didn't rinse off all the degreaser. it then sat on a shelf in a warehouse for EIGHT years....PLENTY of time for nastiness to ensue.
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