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Old 09-30-2010, 06:00 AM   #1
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How far from the bolt did you hold the nozzle? IIRC you need to be 6" (or was it 12" ?) from the part for it to work properly. I have no first-hand knowledge though.
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Old 09-30-2010, 06:03 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen wilson
How far from the bolt did you hold the nozzle? IIRC you need to be 6" (or was it 12" ?) from the part for it to work properly. I have no first-hand knowledge though.


it comes with a straw & says to use the straw and hold it 'close to the part'. i tried holding it right next to the part & also 6" away. no real difference.
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Old 09-30-2010, 06:06 AM   #3
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More good data, insite. Thank you.
Interesting that the canned duster works for that. I've heard of people using dry ice to pull out door dings. I wonder if an upside duster can could work for that, too.
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Old 09-30-2010, 06:11 AM   #4
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More good data, insite. Thank you.
Interesting that the canned duster works for that. I've heard of people using dry ice to pull out door dings. I wonder if an upside duster can could work for that, too.


gotta love thermodynamics. a phase change is always the best way to move heat. it's how air conditioners work. it's also why a steam burn is so much worse than a liquid burn. when you flip the duster can upside down, the liquid layer rather than the gas layer comes out of the nozzle. when it turns to gas, it sucks the heat out of whatever it came into contact with.

incidentally, you can remove warts with this stuff. flip the can upside down, spray a q-tip for 10 seconds, and put the q-tip on the wart for 10 seconds. repeat once. no more wart, & no visit to the doc.
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:10 AM   #5
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I havent used the crc stuff but the loctite version is great. Maybe they cheaped out on the crc stuff?
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:54 AM   #6
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well, you know that anytime you need to dig out the '**************** we'd better not need', it's either gonna be a really good day, or a really bad one.....





started off welding nuts to the exhaust studs; no good. the metal is REALLY soft, so looks like drilling is the way to go.

they, i decided to put the oil pump back on . well, the flange wasn't lined up. i set TDC & removed the tensioner. still wouldn't line up. unfortunately, it was stuck between teeth on the timing chain. i finally got it aligned, but i'm pretty sure it jumped a tooth.

i called ProFormance Place & they don't have the tools. i called the dealer & they told me that it would be $1,700 to re-time ONE SIDE with the engine removed! ha! i called flat6 & they'll do it for @85/hr; it would probably be fairly reasonable.

so, my choices are: rent/borrow a pick-up (mine is an SUV; getting the motor in & out is probably not gonna happen) & drive it up to cleavland, ga (1.5hrs) or buy the timing tools ($485).

that, or maybe someone here will loan / rent them to me? argh!


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Old 10-01-2010, 11:06 AM   #7
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That sucks. Thats great that you are so close to flat6. I think its time well spent to borrow a truck and get the motor to them for re-timing just to be safe. Hope it goes well, im watching your progress!
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:16 AM   #8
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SUV as parts hauler

[QUOTE=insite] so, my choices are: rent/borrow a pick-up (mine is an SUV; getting the motor in & out is probably not gonna happen) & drive it up to cleavland, ga (1.5hrs)

Insite: I had used my wife's Volvo V70 (wagon) 'with tan interior', one time to transport a V6 Alfa engine, thereafter an Alfa transaxle..
I folded the rear seats and used plastic lining to protect the carpet (the ones you use for painting the house) and heavy, thick cardbox to protect the plastic, the engine was heavy enough so no shifting occurred and no stain damage to the tan interior, of course taking the turns slowly...


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