30K mile service???????

[myfirstporsche]

Is the 30K mile service something special? I see the main difference from the annual is the changing of the fluids and filters. The cost that I have been quoted is $1300. The oil has been changed at the dealer every year regardless of mileage.... Do most Boxster owners go with the complete 30K service or just parts of it?

[ekam]

I don't follow those 30K or 45K service... they're designed for the dealer to make money.

What is on the 30K service anyway? I can't imagine anything more than wheel alignment, oil change, check coolant level, check brake fluid level, etc etc.....

[schnellman]

Seems like the 30K is change the oil and check everything else. The dealer here in Dayton wants $650. I took the Boxster to Ed Pimm in Plain City and had a half dozen little problems solved along with the oil change for $500. I know Plain City is a ways from Medina, but it's worth the trip, believe me.

[Topless]

The 30K service means change fluids, spark plugs, filters, and a thorough inspection. My car was at 75K. I recently had EZ lube change my oil ($100), I changed the filters($60), and my trusted Indy shop bled the brakes and performed a 4 hr thorough inspection for $350. He didn't charge enough.

Here is the 30k checklist:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?autocom=maint&code=maint_box_us_mj_04

[drem914]

topless, how was ez-lube to change your oil? Don't know if i trust them to do the right thing or not. Have you had them do it several times for you and have you had any problems?

[Jaxonalden]

Yo, it's an oil change! For God's sake you don't need a degree in astrophysics to accomplish that. Drain oil, replace filter, fill oil.

[Adam]

The 30k service is nothing more than a glorified oil change. If you are capable of bleeding your brakes, changing your oil, and changing your air and cabin filter then you are good. The spark plugs only need to be changed every 60k miles on anything newer than a 99. If you have a 2.5L engine then they call for every 30k miles. Even those aren't that bad at all. The rest of the 30k service is basically visual checks underneath to make sure nothing is damaged or missing and other visual checks like PS fluid level, coolant level, washer fluid level, checking the pressure in the spare and making sure the horn still honks. Basically 2-3 hours of work tops and a couple hundred in parts. Definately not worth $1,300.

[timothy]

I'll do it for a grand

[ohioboxster]

If your in Medina call Laylands in N. Canton. I do all my maintenance for the most part but if I ever run into trouble again, I would take my car there in a minute.


1132 30th St NE
Canton, OH 44714
(330) 455-8841‎

Originally Posted by ekam

I don't follow those 30K or 45K service... they're designed for the dealer to make money.

What is on the 30K service anyway? I can't imagine anything more than wheel alignment, oil change, check coolant level, check brake fluid level, etc etc.....

You are going to wish you did, one day, when you go to sell your car. You drive and own a performance sports car, but you don't know the maintenance requirements. Seems kind of silly to me.

There is so much information here, to be unknowledgeable about such an important subject is irresponsible.

[ekam]

I think everyone said everything needed to say... 30K service is simply a glorified oil change.

I follow my own intervals for spark plugs (60k), oil change (6k), brake fluid (2 yrs), alignment (1 yr), air/cabin filter (30k), coolant (5 yrs).

I don't need a stealer to tell me I need new rotors or brake pads because "they're almost done" without telling you the actual thickness of the rotors & pads. They're hurting and will try to make you buy unnecessary replacement parts just because.

Pay $1300 if you sleep better letting some trainee at the dealer do these basic visual "inspections" for you. I certainly would spend the money somewhere else.

[Jaxonalden]

As you can see, if you’re capable of looking under your car and identifying leaks and changing the obvious consumables that you'll be fine. I'm not going to give a dealership my money to do what I should be doing anyway. Preventive maintenance is part of car ownership; it's also one way to bond with the one that's slinging your ass around at 110mph.

$1000 to do these things? Please.

Boxster (986) Maintenance Schedules - Major Maintenance US (from MY04)
Major maintenance after: 30,000, 60,000, 90,000, 120,000 miles etc. (48,000, 96,000, 144,000, 192,000 km etc.) OK
Diagnosis system: Read out fault memory
Polyrib belt: Check condition
Change the engine oil and oil filter
Replace the spark plugs
Vehicle underside and engine compartment: Visual inspection for leaks (oils and fluids) and abrasion (lines and hoses)
Underbody panels: visual inspection for completeness, installation and damage
Coolant hoses: Check condition;
Radiators and air inlets at front: Visual inspection for external contamination and blockage;
Coolant: Check the level and antifreeze protection
Air cleaner: Replace the filter element
Particle filter: Replace the filter element
Fuel system: Visual inspection for damage, routing and secure fit of line connections
Power steering: Check the fluid level and bellows
Parking brake: Checking the free play of the parking brake lever
Brake system: Visual inspection of the brake pads and brake discs for wear
Brake hoses and lines: Visual inspection for damage, routing and corrosion. Checking the brake fluid level
Clutch: Check the play and pedal end position
Steering gear: Visually inspect the bellows for damage
Tie rod joints: Check the play and dust bellows
Axle joints: Check play, visual inspection of dust bellows for damage, check screw connections of running gear adjustment facility, front and rear, for secure fit
Drive shafts: Perform a visual inspection of the boots for leaks and damage
Exhaust system: Visual inspection for leaks and damage, check suspension
Tires and spare wheel (collapsible wheel): Check the condition and the tire pressure
Check the door locks, lid locks and safety hooks of the front lid to ensure that they are secure and functioning properly:
Check lid lock, front and rear; Check safety hook, front lid; Function test, check door lock; Check door and lid tightening torques
Seat belts: Check function and condition
Vehicle lighting: Check function; All headlights: Check adjustment; Horn: Check operation.
Windscreen wiper/washer system, headlight washer: Check fluid level and nozzle settings, pay attention to antifreeze protection in the winter months.
Electrical equipment as well as warning and indicator lights: Check operation.
Test drive:
Remote control, front seats, foot and parking brakes (also actuation travel), engine, clutch, steering, transmission, ParkAssist, automatic speed control, TC/PSM switch, heating, air-conditioning system and instruments: Check operation.
Oils, fluids: Visual inspection for leaks

[Topless]

Originally Posted by drem914

topless, how was ez-lube to change your oil? Don't know if i trust them to do the right thing or not. Have you had them do it several times for you and have you had any problems?

They do lots of German cars so they are already in the ballpark. I supply the oil, filter and crush ring $80ish. I bring a DIY checklist which lists specialty tools, explains the need for long drain time, and has torque settings, and the need to only refill with 8.5qts today. I will top off tomorrow. I spend two minutes with the tech and explain that an oil change on a Boxster is easy but it is a little different, and gently walk him through the list. He understood, did nice work, and charged $20 labor.

[FTD]

Originally Posted by Topless

They do lots of German cars so they are already in the ballpark. I supply the oil, filter and crush ring $80ish. I bring a DIY checklist which lists specialty tools, explains the need for long drain time, and has torque settings, and the need to only refill with 8.5qts today. I will top off tomorrow. I spend two minutes with the tech and explain that an oil change on a Boxster is easy but it is a little different, and gently walk him through the list. He understood, did nice work, and charged $20 labor.

I did the same thing last week. I was having issues getting my Honda on ramps and eventually became unsettled about it. [twenty years of doing this and suddenly nothing is going well]. I took the Honda and oil/filter to my independent mechanic. I told them about the ramp stress and asked if they would change the Porsche oil for me also. No problem. I brought the oil, filter, and crush ring and reviewed the oil change with them; requesting an hour drain time and why, fitting the O-ring on the filter housing and the 8.5 torque for the filter. They charged me $20. At this price and considering it was somewhat of a convenience, I think I will sell my ramps. I always thought it was easier to do this at home rather than sit around reading boring magazines or arranging for drop off and pick up. I have changed my mind.

[gRed04]

Originally Posted by bmussatti

You are going to wish you did, one day, when you go to sell your car. You drive and own a performance sports car, but you don't know the maintenance requirements. Seems kind of silly to me.

There is so much information here, to be unknowledgeable about such an important subject is irresponsible.

I agree, you wont be able to get 15k for your car and will have to settle for 14.5k.

Really all that is needed is oil and filters change. You want to pay a dealer 1k additional to visually inspect about 20 items then that is your choice.

[geetee]

Originally Posted by schnellman

Seems like the 30K is change the oil and check everything else. The dealer here in Dayton wants $650. I took the Boxster to Ed Pimm in Plain City and had a half dozen little problems solved along with the oil change for $500. I know Plain City is a ways from Medina, but it's worth the trip, believe me.

I'm in Chillicothe and trying to find a good Indy. Do you have any info on Ed Pimm? Any other good/honest indy's?
Thanks.

[JTP]

If you know someone in the military who will take you on post with them, most bases will have an Auto Skills Center. They are setup just like a dealer's shop, several bays with lifts, air, wash bays and a tool shop to lend most any tool you'll need. My base charges $4/hr for lift and access to all the tools. Also ASE mechs on hand to give any assistance.

[alphaboy1]

I have noticed both my front Shock Dust bellows have dry rotted. It is a 2002 Boxster S with 45,000 miles on it. Can I get mechanic to replace just this? How much will I most likey spend to replace the bellows approx?

Thanks
Paul

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by ohioboxster

If your in Medina call Laylands in N. Canton. I do all my maintenance for the most part but if I ever run into trouble again, I would take my car there in a minute.


1132 30th St NE
Canton, OH 44714
(330) 455-8841‎

I concur.

Had to replace axle boots on both sides. He ('Rick') at Laylands quoted prices to either repair the originals or to totally replace the axles, the replacement cost actually being less than the repair cost. Seemed like a no-brainer, I opted to replace.

Then I started asking questions I should have asked right off the bat, especially who manufactured the axles. Needless to say, it wasn't Porsche. It was some Chinese company--Rick told me he had had good luck with them for years, but I was uncomfortable with the idea of giving up the OEM Porsche axles for those, but by now they had already been ordered and had arrived. I expressed my concern and offered to pay shipping to send the Chinese ones back, but he said "Nope, don't worry about it." I really expected him to give me a hard time about changing my mind at that point. He didn't, not at all.

They did a good job at a reasonable rate. I recommend them.

[Kerry]

I have a 07 base that just hit 20K. Here's what worked for me:
I used a local Goodyear shop that I have trusted with all my American sedans for 15 years to change the oil and replace the brake fluid at about 15K miles. I bring in all the parts and he charges me very modest labor ($20 oil change, $75 brake fluid change).
I replaced the cabin and air filters myself at about 15K miles.
At 20K miles I took the car to a local indy (Fischer in Barrington) who did the rest (road test, read out fault memory, all the visual checks) for about an hour of labor time. Rick Fischer was a great guy who gave me several suggestions regarding brake and tire wear without any big sales pitch.
Total cost was about $350 all parts and labor. Dealership wanted $900