30K mile service???????
Is the 30K mile service something special? I see the main difference from the annual is the changing of the fluids and filters. The cost that I have been quoted is $1300. The oil has been changed at the dealer every year regardless of mileage.... Do most Boxster owners go with the complete 30K service or just parts of it?
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I don't follow those 30K or 45K service... they're designed for the dealer to make money.
What is on the 30K service anyway? I can't imagine anything more than wheel alignment, oil change, check coolant level, check brake fluid level, etc etc..... |
Seems like the 30K is change the oil and check everything else. The dealer here in Dayton wants $650. I took the Boxster to Ed Pimm in Plain City and had a half dozen little problems solved along with the oil change for $500. I know Plain City is a ways from Medina, but it's worth the trip, believe me.
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The 30K service means change fluids, spark plugs, filters, and a thorough inspection. My car was at 75K. I recently had EZ lube change my oil ($100), I changed the filters($60), and my trusted Indy shop bled the brakes and performed a 4 hr thorough inspection for $350. He didn't charge enough.
Here is the 30k checklist: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?autocom=maint&code=maint_box_us_mj_04 |
topless, how was ez-lube to change your oil? Don't know if i trust them to do the right thing or not. Have you had them do it several times for you and have you had any problems?
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Yo, it's an oil change! For God's sake you don't need a degree in astrophysics to accomplish that. Drain oil, replace filter, fill oil.
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The 30k service is nothing more than a glorified oil change. If you are capable of bleeding your brakes, changing your oil, and changing your air and cabin filter then you are good. The spark plugs only need to be changed every 60k miles on anything newer than a 99. If you have a 2.5L engine then they call for every 30k miles. Even those aren't that bad at all. The rest of the 30k service is basically visual checks underneath to make sure nothing is damaged or missing and other visual checks like PS fluid level, coolant level, washer fluid level, checking the pressure in the spare and making sure the horn still honks. Basically 2-3 hours of work tops and a couple hundred in parts. Definately not worth $1,300. :eek:
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I'll do it for a grand :D
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If your in Medina call Laylands in N. Canton. I do all my maintenance for the most part but if I ever run into trouble again, I would take my car there in a minute.
1132 30th St NE Canton, OH 44714 (330) 455-8841 |
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There is so much information here, to be unknowledgeable about such an important subject is irresponsible. |
I think everyone said everything needed to say... 30K service is simply a glorified oil change.
I follow my own intervals for spark plugs (60k), oil change (6k), brake fluid (2 yrs), alignment (1 yr), air/cabin filter (30k), coolant (5 yrs). I don't need a stealer to tell me I need new rotors or brake pads because "they're almost done" without telling you the actual thickness of the rotors & pads. They're hurting and will try to make you buy unnecessary replacement parts just because. Pay $1300 if you sleep better letting some trainee at the dealer do these basic visual "inspections" for you. I certainly would spend the money somewhere else. |
As you can see, if you’re capable of looking under your car and identifying leaks and changing the obvious consumables that you'll be fine. I'm not going to give a dealership my money to do what I should be doing anyway. Preventive maintenance is part of car ownership; it's also one way to bond with the one that's slinging your ass around at 110mph.
$1000 to do these things? Please. Boxster (986) Maintenance Schedules - Major Maintenance US (from MY04) Major maintenance after: 30,000, 60,000, 90,000, 120,000 miles etc. (48,000, 96,000, 144,000, 192,000 km etc.) OK Diagnosis system: Read out fault memory Polyrib belt: Check condition Change the engine oil and oil filter Replace the spark plugs Vehicle underside and engine compartment: Visual inspection for leaks (oils and fluids) and abrasion (lines and hoses) Underbody panels: visual inspection for completeness, installation and damage Coolant hoses: Check condition; Radiators and air inlets at front: Visual inspection for external contamination and blockage; Coolant: Check the level and antifreeze protection Air cleaner: Replace the filter element Particle filter: Replace the filter element Fuel system: Visual inspection for damage, routing and secure fit of line connections Power steering: Check the fluid level and bellows Parking brake: Checking the free play of the parking brake lever Brake system: Visual inspection of the brake pads and brake discs for wear Brake hoses and lines: Visual inspection for damage, routing and corrosion. Checking the brake fluid level Clutch: Check the play and pedal end position Steering gear: Visually inspect the bellows for damage Tie rod joints: Check the play and dust bellows Axle joints: Check play, visual inspection of dust bellows for damage, check screw connections of running gear adjustment facility, front and rear, for secure fit Drive shafts: Perform a visual inspection of the boots for leaks and damage Exhaust system: Visual inspection for leaks and damage, check suspension Tires and spare wheel (collapsible wheel): Check the condition and the tire pressure Check the door locks, lid locks and safety hooks of the front lid to ensure that they are secure and functioning properly: Check lid lock, front and rear; Check safety hook, front lid; Function test, check door lock; Check door and lid tightening torques Seat belts: Check function and condition Vehicle lighting: Check function; All headlights: Check adjustment; Horn: Check operation. Windscreen wiper/washer system, headlight washer: Check fluid level and nozzle settings, pay attention to antifreeze protection in the winter months. Electrical equipment as well as warning and indicator lights: Check operation. Test drive: Remote control, front seats, foot and parking brakes (also actuation travel), engine, clutch, steering, transmission, ParkAssist, automatic speed control, TC/PSM switch, heating, air-conditioning system and instruments: Check operation. Oils, fluids: Visual inspection for leaks |
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Really all that is needed is oil and filters change. You want to pay a dealer 1k additional to visually inspect about 20 items then that is your choice. |
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Thanks. |
If you know someone in the military who will take you on post with them, most bases will have an Auto Skills Center. They are setup just like a dealer's shop, several bays with lifts, air, wash bays and a tool shop to lend most any tool you'll need. My base charges $4/hr for lift and access to all the tools. Also ASE mechs on hand to give any assistance.
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Shock Dust Bellows
I have noticed both my front Shock Dust bellows have dry rotted. It is a 2002 Boxster S with 45,000 miles on it. Can I get mechanic to replace just this? How much will I most likey spend to replace the bellows approx?
Thanks Paul |
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I concur. Had to replace axle boots on both sides. He ('Rick') at Laylands quoted prices to either repair the originals or to totally replace the axles, the replacement cost actually being less than the repair cost. Seemed like a no-brainer, I opted to replace. Then I started asking questions I should have asked right off the bat, especially who manufactured the axles. Needless to say, it wasn't Porsche. It was some Chinese company--Rick told me he had had good luck with them for years, but I was uncomfortable with the idea of giving up the OEM Porsche axles for those, but by now they had already been ordered and had arrived. I expressed my concern and offered to pay shipping to send the Chinese ones back, but he said "Nope, don't worry about it." I really expected him to give me a hard time about changing my mind at that point. He didn't, not at all. They did a good job at a reasonable rate. I recommend them. |
I have a 07 base that just hit 20K. Here's what worked for me:
I used a local Goodyear shop that I have trusted with all my American sedans for 15 years to change the oil and replace the brake fluid at about 15K miles. I bring in all the parts and he charges me very modest labor ($20 oil change, $75 brake fluid change). I replaced the cabin and air filters myself at about 15K miles. At 20K miles I took the car to a local indy (Fischer in Barrington) who did the rest (road test, read out fault memory, all the visual checks) for about an hour of labor time. Rick Fischer was a great guy who gave me several suggestions regarding brake and tire wear without any big sales pitch. Total cost was about $350 all parts and labor. Dealership wanted $900 |
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