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Old 07-29-2008, 07:11 PM   #1
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Originally Posted by j.fro
One thing that I'm thinking of doing is enlarging openings on the strut towers above the adjustments. Right now, to change the camber settings, you have to remove the wheel and bottom out the spring and drop the top mount on the strut to make the change. The stock holes are too small to get to all of the allen bolts.
i'd thought about that. what i'll probably do is adjust the camber plates so that i'm at -1.2 deg camber with the struts pressed all the way inboard in the factory slots. that should give me around -1.8 at street height and -2.0 at track height. still, modifying the top mount to allow access to the set screws would be nice...
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Old 07-29-2008, 11:02 PM   #2
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Excellent write up. Its post like these that adds value to the board. Bravo.

If you can, please post up your impression of them after initial drive or month or two after ownership with the settings that you decided to use.

Couple more questions though.

Also, did you order directly from KSport for the $1000 shipped price ? Its lower than prices I see on Ebay.

Did you end up with the Control / GT Pro / or RR version of the coilover ?

What made you pick it over the other two version ?

Last edited by nefarious986; 07-30-2008 at 04:01 AM.
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Old 07-30-2008, 12:11 AM   #3
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Gary in BR has/had them on his ride. I'm not sure what spring rate he is using but he said they are way too stiff for him and he's removing them.

What model K-Sport coilover did you buy? How in the world did you get them for $1k?
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Old 07-30-2008, 02:44 AM   #4
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Hey, how were you able to adjust the ride height independent of the spring perch?
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Old 07-30-2008, 04:18 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by j.fro
Hey, how were you able to adjust the ride height independent of the spring perch?
below the spring perch where the coilover is inserted into the wheel knuckles, there is a locking collar (on the front wheels, there is a locking collar on the very bottom of the strut, too). loosen the locking collars. then, twist the WHOLE strut. it will thread in and out of the wheel knuckle, making the entire strut shorter or longer. finally, tighten the locking collars. they need to be TIGHT; use a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to do this. BTW, if your struts make a knocking sound, these locking collars are loose.
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Old 07-30-2008, 07:05 AM   #6
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how much better are these setups than M030?

how do they stack up against M030 from a bang/buck standpoint?

for spirited street driving - i would assume these coilover systems are overkill??
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Old 07-30-2008, 07:51 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by 23109VC
how much better are these setups than M030?

how do they stack up against M030 from a bang/buck standpoint?

for spirited street driving - i would assume these coilover systems are overkill??
'better' has to consider application. for spirited street driving, the RoW M030 is perfect, IMO. it's even great for autocross and some track duty.

the reason i'm stepping up to a full coilover system is that i'm now able to drive beyond the capabilty of the M030 on track; the car doesn't react as fast as i can input steering corrections. additionally, this full coilover type of setup gives me more adjustability so i can dial in one setup for the street and a much more aggressive setup for the track.

it all boils down to rate of weight transfer. the M030 transfers weight in a nice progressive fashion; it's quick enough to allow a nice, sporty feel but compliant enough to really soak up bumps and irregularities in the road. the real difference with the KSports come from the increased spring rate and corresponding increase in compression and rebound damping rates.

spring rates are generally noted in force / distance. let's say i hit a bump in the road that causes a 1G force on the front left spring / damper. let's say that the static weight on that corner is 800 lb and that the bump causes an additional 800 lb force on that wheel. if my spring rate is 200 lb / in, that corner will compress by four inches. the damper will control that rate of compression and corresponding rebound. 4" is a lot of distance and will allow slower accel / decel as the chassis reacts to the bump. this is comfy. now say i double my spring rate. now, the same bump will be soaked up by only 2" of travel. if the dampers are valved in an equivalent manner for the spring rates, then the time used to accel / decel the damper is cut roughly in half. this means that the damper will feel as if it absorbs less of the bump and translates more of it to the chassis / passenger compartment. remember that in physics, 'impact' is defined as a change in momentum over a change in time. since we're halving the time, we're doubling the impact. quality dampers can mute the effect on the passenger compartment, but this will still certainly be less comfortable.

at the track, though, if i enter a corner with the stiffer springs, i get less motion, less body roll and a faster reaction time from the chassis. since the grip available on a tire's contact patch is proportional to the weight on the tire, i will have more time at peak grip in that corner (since the weight transfered there sooner) & the car will set faster, preparing to receive the next driver input earlier.

it's all about trade-offs. ultimately, my personal preference at this point is to increase the on-track capabilty of my car at the expense of street comfort. a compromise between the KSport and M030 would be the PSS9. they use progressive rate springs & lower absolute spring and damping rates. they are still great on track, but much more comfortable on the street. my personal preference here, though, was to surpass the PSS9 in spring rate & valving. additionally, progressive rate springs are nice for the road, but they translate into inconsistent handling at the track. a linear spring rate is more ideal in that setting.

man, i'm long winded today......
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Old 07-30-2008, 04:15 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by nefarious986
If you can, please post up your impression of them after initial drive or month or two after ownership with the settings that you decided to use.
i'll post install notes / picks, setup notes, street impressions, & race track impressions / results.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nefarious986
Also, did you order directly from KSport for the $1000 shipped price ? Its lower than prices I see on Ebay.
i got them for $1,088 shipped from TCS Motorsports on EBay. this price INCLUDES the custom spring rates.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nefarious986
Did you end up with the Control / GT Pro / or RR version of the coilover ?

What made you pick it over the other two version ?


i went with the control. the RR version is just the control w/ different spring rates & valving. since you can get different spring rates for free and since the control version is already heavily damped, that's what i did. i think the RR version would be way to stiff. the GT Pro version has an inverted damper design similar to the PSS9's. i didn't go with this because i think it will be easier to adjust the damping in the trunk and under the clamshell rather than behind the wheels.
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