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Old 08-17-2019, 07:19 PM   #1
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Wheel stud conversion

Hey y'all. How many of you have converted to studs? What brand did you use? And did you use a length that allows for various spacers, or?

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Old 08-17-2019, 08:11 PM   #2
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I went with 90 mm.
Better to be long than short
I bought them on amazon or ebay. Have had zero problems in almost 3 years
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Old 08-18-2019, 12:07 AM   #3
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https://www.race-studs.com/collections/wheel-studs/products/bullet-nose-race-stud?variant=1106029360
I went 80 front 90 rear.
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Old 08-18-2019, 07:50 AM   #4
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Same for me, went 90mm all around.
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Old 08-18-2019, 08:18 AM   #5
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I can't remember how long the studs I purchased are, but they are long enough that the front studs stick out beyond the wheels (Turbo Twists). I got them from ECS, they have really nice kits with the studs and spacers (20mm) that are high quality. I later purchased another pair of spacers (15mm) off of eBay, and they quality wasn't nearly as good as the ECS parts.
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Old 08-18-2019, 08:54 AM   #6
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Same for me, went 90mm all around.
Y'all with 90's, you feel like you've enough stud for 20mm spacers?

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Old 08-18-2019, 09:55 AM   #7
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Same, 92mm from Tarrett.

986 Wheel Studs

I took a quick look and I don't think that you could add 20mm spacers and still have the lug nut fully engaged on the threads. 10mm might be ok but I'd have to pull a wheel and take a measurement to be sure.
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Old 08-18-2019, 02:39 PM   #8
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Same, 92mm from Tarrett.

986 Wheel Studs

I took a quick look and I don't think that you could add 20mm spacers and still have the lug nut fully engaged on the threads. 10mm might be ok but I'd have to pull a wheel and take a measurement to be sure.
Thanks. I'ma do some math, too. But "math is hard" for me, hahaha.

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Old 08-18-2019, 04:07 PM   #9
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I run 25mm spaces on 90 mm studs and there are a few threads showing after the lug nut is torqued.
If you track your car, many clubs want to see at least 1/2 the stud diameter showing past the lug nut
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Old 08-18-2019, 04:32 PM   #10
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When you're saying 90mm, are you talking overall length, like in this diagram?

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Old 08-19-2019, 05:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
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When you're saying 90mm, are you talking overall length, like in this diagram?

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Yes, 90mm is entire length
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Old 08-19-2019, 05:53 AM   #12
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Also, the instalation instructions on some say to use red locktite. I used blue and have not had any issues. Red is considered "permenant" and probubly will require heating with a torch to remove.
Blue will hold them in, but you can break one loose if you have to with wrenches

If you track or AX your car, once you try studs, you won't want to go back to lugbolts. Makes tire changing super easy and fast.
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Old 08-19-2019, 06:22 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Also, the instal;ation instructions on some say to use red locktite. I used blue and have not had any issues. Red is considered "permenant" and probubly will require heating with a torch to remove.
Blue will hold them in, but you can break one loose if you have to with wrenches

If you track or AX your car, once you try studs, you won't want to go back to lugbolts. Makes tire changing super easy and fast.
Sure hope you are using the high heat locktite as regular blue or red will turn to liquid with enough heat and the studs will back out.
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Old 08-19-2019, 07:04 AM   #14
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Sure hope you are using the high heat locktite as regular blue or red will turn to liquid with enough heat and the studs will back out.
Studs shouldn't back out spontaneously regardless of loctite use or no, if the nuts are torqued properly. the only time studs without loctite should be able to "walk" out is during wheel-changing / nut-removal.

A properly torqued nut on a stud is at the same risk of coming-loose as a properly torqued bolt is.
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Old 08-19-2019, 09:16 AM   #15
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Studs shouldn't back out spontaneously regardless of loctite use or no, if the nuts are torqued properly. the only time studs without loctite should be able to "walk" out is during wheel-changing / nut-removal.

A properly torqued nut on a stud is at the same risk of coming-loose as a properly torqued bolt is.
Well - I've seen it happen. Everything torqued properly - but used regular blue loctite. Notes vibration on track, comes in all the studs on the right side are loose. I've run studs on my cars for many years, never used loctite, never needed to.
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Old 08-19-2019, 12:02 PM   #16
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I've run studs on my cars for many years, never used loctite, never needed to.
Same.

I've BROKEN plenty of studs, before we knew the benefits of hub-centric, hahaha. But I've never had one come loose / un-torqued on me.
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Old 08-20-2019, 06:53 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maytag View Post
Studs shouldn't back out spontaneously regardless of loctite use or no, if the nuts are torqued properly. the only time studs without loctite should be able to "walk" out is during wheel-changing / nut-removal.

A properly torqued nut on a stud is at the same risk of coming-loose as a properly torqued bolt is.
Yup. They won't back out by theselves if they are tourqued.
In 3 years and countless wheel changes I have not had one loosen at all with blue locktite.

If you use red, and somhow break a stud, good luck getting it out. You may have to replace the hub
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Old 08-20-2019, 06:55 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maytag View Post
Studs shouldn't back out spontaneously regardless of loctite use or no, if the nuts are torqued properly. the only time studs without loctite should be able to "walk" out is during wheel-changing / nut-removal.

A properly torqued nut on a stud is at the same risk of coming-loose as a properly torqued bolt is.
Yup. They won't back out by theselves if they are tourqued.
In 3 years and countless wheel changes I have not had one loosen at all with blue locktite.

If you use red, and somehow break a stud, good luck getting it out. You may have to replace the hub
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Old 08-20-2019, 01:32 PM   #19
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Same for me.
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Old 08-21-2019, 08:09 AM   #20
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If you use red, and somehow break a stud, good luck getting it out. You may have to replace the hub
not even close. a propane torch and about 5 minutes and it will spin right out.
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