What front anti-roll bar do I want for Track Work?

[MaxD]

Originally Posted by maytag

You're saying GT3 Factory, right? Not 986 Factory? Right?

Yup - 996 GT3 arms

[MaxD]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

compression strength won't be much different than tension strength, hey? presume more than adequate for the application (threaded fasteners are designed for tension). i'd be more worried about the shear strength, however not much opportunity for a shear load in the application.

Once you have threaded that arm out 20mm for your -4 degrees of camber your presumption of adequate is just that.

I'll stick with something proven to stand up to the abuse we all dish out. A 20mm shim.

[The Radium King]

Originally Posted by MaxD

Once you have threaded that arm out 20mm for your -4 degrees of camber your presumption of adequate is just that.

I'll stick with something proven to stand up to the abuse we all dish out. A 20mm shim.

so you know how much thread remains engaged at a 20 mm extension? i'd suggest that you are the one making presumptions?

btw, max shim is 16mm and thats another $32 per side. ps, i've seen a car go into the wall when the shim popped out of his rear lower control arm. it was a lambo, though.

[steved0x]

Many aftermarket toe arms use threaded rod adjusters as do our front tie rods, so i would feel fine running the elephant lca, which do not require a camber plate btw. I tell you what though, the 20% black Friday sale that RSS had was sure tempting... If i ever got another car i would probably go with their stuff, fully rebuildable, and although for some reason they don't sell the ball joint kit anymore, i bet it is just a standard spherical bearing, and i like the way they do their pins. I'd set it up with my top mounts in the middle, giving me some flexibility to tweak camber with out fiddling with the shims which a hassle.

[Quadcammer]

I run tarrett pro series tubular control arms will all heim joints and they are fantastic. The loads our cars put on these joints and fittings comes nowhwre close to their max loads

[rastta]

Originally Posted by MaxD

Once you have threaded that arm out 20mm for your -4 degrees of camber your presumption of adequate is just that.

I'll stick with something proven to stand up to the abuse we all dish out. A 20mm shim.

I think your making some pretty big assumptions. The extension of the arm is minimal at 3.5 degrees of camber, in fact there is barely any thread showing. It could easily go 4+ without much more extension.

To each his own I guess, I didn't want to bother with shims or throw out $1000 dollars worth of arms when the ball joint goes or I tear the boot removing them to replace a wheel bearing. I prefer stuff that is easily user serviceable with replaceable parts.

[P_Carfahrer]

Shims? Did someone say shims?



I also thought they were a bit ridiculously priced so I drew them up and had my friend make just a few on his water jet. Additional sizes next week. Anodization to follow.

If anyone needs shims cheap in the foreseeable future I have them.

Aren’t the holed ears on the stock shims for safety wire to keep them from ever bouncing out if the nuts loosen for whatever reason?

[thstone]

Originally Posted by P_Carfahrer

That is about $10,000 worth of shims! Nice job.