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Old 10-02-2013, 09:02 AM   #1
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which kill switch to buy?

any recommandation?

where to buy?
where to install?

for a 2004 boxster S

thanks
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:50 AM   #2
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What are you trying to accomplish?
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Old 10-02-2013, 10:06 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Paseb View Post
any recommandation?

where to buy?
where to install?

for a 2004 boxster S

thanks
You need a 6 pole switch, wired like this:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/4430WiringInstructions.pdf

I wired mine so that it killed the ECU instead of the ignition. Cant remember which wire it was - I chased it back from the fuse box, but it kills the engine dead.

I bought mine from OGracing:

BATTERY KILLSWITCH KIT FOR PORSCHES

but you can probably do it cheaper if you DIY rather than buy the kit.

Mine was installed on the RHS of the battery, with the pull wire coming across the frunk and exiting beneath the drivers side windshield.
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Old 10-02-2013, 10:09 AM   #4
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its for a race car guys

thanks for the og racing link, not cheap !!!
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:47 PM   #5
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its for a race car guys

thanks for the og racing link, not cheap !!!
They do sell the switch on its own:

BATTERY 6-POLE KILLSWITCH

but you have to mess around with your own pull cable, bracket, etc.
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:09 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by gavinyuill View Post
I wired mine so that it killed the ECU instead of the ignition. Cant remember which wire it was - I chased it back from the fuse box, but it kills the engine dead.
I have the same switch in my Spec Boxster.

Wiring the power cutoff switch direct to the ECU is important because this is the only way to be sure that the fuel pump will immediately be turned off. Turning off the engine but leaving power to the ECU will leave the fuel pump powered and pumping - not a good thing in an emergency situation.
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Old 10-07-2013, 03:00 PM   #7
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You can do it with a two pole switch. I have the main power distribution, which is under the dash, lead on one side of the switch and the battery on the other. Kills the power to everything.
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:42 AM   #8
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My SPB also has a 2 pole switch. It is mounted near the battery and opens the ground connection from the battery to the chassis - so everything is killed. It has pull wires going to the dash and the cowling in front of the windshield.

Correction: I took a closer look at the switch and see an addition pair of contacts with small wires attached that go inside the car, so mine is not a 2 pole. Sorry for the mistake.

Last edited by spendy; 10-14-2013 at 09:25 AM. Reason: correction
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Old 10-11-2013, 02:25 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by bam914 View Post
You can do it with a two pole switch. I have the main power distribution, which is under the dash, lead on one side of the switch and the battery on the other. Kills the power to everything.
No it doesn't. As long as the motor is still spinning the alternator is still producing power and the motor will run indefinately. You need a six pole so that you can ground out the alternator as well as kill the power supply to the motor (there is a relay in the rear that you can switch the power to and kill all motor function as well as the output of the battery. Two pole will not kill a modern car.

For those with two pole switches try the following- rev engine to 2500rpm and pull kill switch. Does your engine stop?
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Old 10-20-2013, 05:04 PM   #10
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How ever your wire it, test that it kills the motor and the fuel pump.
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:02 AM   #11
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Two pole works fine

The alternator chargeback wire: take it to the battery side of the cutoff switch (this happens to be the starter wire also)

Does it leave the big black heavy wire "hot" running through the car AFTER you cut the switch? Yes, but all else is cut.

Super simple to wire it this way, I use the Cup car style electric cut. ZERO failures in 10 years of use. Easy to wire a switch for the driver and button for the outside of the car.

The "twist" style cutoff SUCKS to run two cables. One for driver and external pull

B
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:23 PM   #12
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Don't listen to anything Brad says - man is an idiot! Not really, but as my inclination I'm going to question him here. I tried it with a simple break in the earth side of the battery and my car failed the PCA test which is rev engine to 2500rpm, pull the switch and see if car dies. In my case it kept on running. What are you doing that is different - I'm not quite getting your explanation.
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