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Old 12-30-2018, 07:14 PM   #41
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Going to try for a smog cert tomorrow....





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I'm betting that goes without a hitch! Good luck! Let us know?

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Old 12-30-2018, 07:57 PM   #42
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Wow! Great work! Impressive to say the least!
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Old 12-30-2018, 10:14 PM   #43
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Thanks for the props!

Still chasing some stuff....I have a coolant drip.

Anyone know the coolant plug torque value?
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Old 01-04-2019, 06:34 PM   #44
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Well I cant get it smogged because the Secondary Air System is showing 'Fail' status.

I thought maybe I bolted the pump up and connected the hose but maybe forgot to plug the darn thing in?
So this morning I started it up and drove it down to the shop. I retracted the top into service mode, undid all the layers of access (cue Get Smart theme music) and finally could get to the pump. Sure enough, the plug was not plugged in.

Doh!

Ok...I plugged it in and drove it....but the system is still showing 'Fail'.

I thought it must be due to the car already being warm and therefore the SAI pump was not being told by the ECU to turn on for a 'cold start'.

so, I parked it and put a fan on the engine bay for a couple of hours.

Now, I can activate the pump with the Durametric when the engine is not running so I know the pump is good.

After waiting a couple of hours with the fan cooling, I started her up and sure enough, the Secondary Air Pump activated for @ 1 minute and then shut off.

But, alas, the system is still showing 'fail'....even after driving it for @ 30 miles.

I HAVE NO C.E.L.!

I am wondering if maybe I need to disconnect the battery and reboot the whole system? The SA pump was not plugged in when I brought it on-line after the engine repair.

...but I dont want to have to reboot everything if I dont have to. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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Old 01-04-2019, 07:25 PM   #45
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Search will be your friend here....these cars have to go through a number of specific drive cycles for all the systems to reset to ready. Somewhere, there's a thread that will describe what the drive cycles are. It requires more than just driving it for a number of miles. If you reset everything, then you'll have to start the drive cycle thing over.

Look at the picture in post #1 in the following thread...the may work if everything else is OK. Did you ever figure out what was causing P1341. This usually means the variocam is suspect or its solenoid is going bad. This will affect the timing advance...not sure of its impact on smog.


BTW: Car need to be a full operating temp for accurate deviation readings...+/- 6 are within spec. When numbers get outside of this range, something is wearing and needs replacement. IIRC, CEL pops on at around 9.
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Old 01-04-2019, 08:01 PM   #46
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Thanks...I see from searching this is a fairly common issue.

I think I will try the 2800 rpm rev up start in the morning.

https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/49155-secondary-air-test-readiness-monitor-incomplete/

Maybe just a couple more cold start cycles is all I need...

the p1341 appears to be from the cam deviations. It has not triggered in quite a while. The cams are showing
Cam 1 -0.75
Cam 2 1.28
and have been for 100+miles. From what I have read these are well within spec. The car is running great.

Last edited by Ottomotion; 01-04-2019 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 01-05-2019, 02:41 AM   #47
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Your camshaft deviations are completely normal and did not cause the P1341 code. If anything, the vatiocam on one side failed to advance the timing as the engine spun up through the 2000-5000 rpm range.

The way to examine this issue involves several steps. First, bring the car up to operating temperature and measure the actual camshaft angles. This is another selection on your Durametric.

It's possible you'll see the angle on one side either not jumping up or jumping up slowly compared to the other side as you hit the rpm value that triggers the variocam to expand. When this happens, P1341 results. I believe the below limit means the actual angle was too small when the variocam should have activated. See this thread: https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/26617-p1341-what-could-this-be/ and how to check.

If so, there are several possible causes. One, the variocam solenoid could be toast or in the process of failing. This is a relatively low cost easy fix. Or this may be the case of the variocam itself. If one side lags and then increases, it's possible this is due to a weak solenoid.

Hope this helps. I saw this same condition in my 01S. Haven't fixed it b/c I also saw internal chain rail debris in the sump and don't have the ability to replace this internal part myself.
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Old 01-05-2019, 01:39 PM   #48
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Here is a copy of the drive cycle instructions I have used to set the car for CA smog checks. I think it came from this forum.

Below we outline the driving pattern you'll need to perform in order to get your Porsche's OBD-II emission monitors to become READY or COMPLETE. Perform the entire drive cycle. Completing only one portion of the drive cycle will not make the particular monitor which you're trying to make READY complete. The entire drive cycle must be performed every time you attempt the set any of the monitors.

Porsche 911 Drive Cycle - OBDII Emission Monitor Reset Procedure

Prior to starting the driving cycle ensure your Porsche's fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full. Also do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph during any portion of the drive cycle. Take extra caution when perform the Porsche drive cycle on public roadways. if you think you will be unable to safely perform the drive cycle please seek assistance from an experienced Porsche mechanic or smog check repair center.

A. Start your Porsche 911 and let it idle for approximately 2 1/2 minutes. This will allow the ECU to diagnose oxygen sensor aging; meaning the computer will be monitoring the oxygen sensor warm-up period and reaction to rising exhaust temperatures. During this period the ECU is also testing the Secondary Air Injection system.

B. Begin driving. Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain your speed for 3 1/2 minutes. The ECU will be testing catalytic converter efficiency.

C. Next, accelerate to 40-60 MPH. Once again maintain steady speed, this time for approximately 15 minutes. The EVAP system is now being tested along with adaptation range (2) and the oxygen sensor (switching).

D. Decelerate and come to a complete stop. If equipped with a manual transmission, idle in neutral for 3 minutes. If equipped with an automatic Tiptronic transmission, idle in drive (D) for 3 minutes. Adaptation range (2) is now being tested.

E. Repeat steps B through D. Drive cycle complete.

I followed the instructions provided by the San Diego PCA Tech Advisor and it worked

Drive in 10 minute cycles 1400-2800 Rpm in 5-6 gear as slow as you can drive in light traffic.
If you stop or go out of RPM range the cycle resets the timer.
After 5-6 cycles you will probably have it.
For evap you must have 1/3-2/3 of a tank of fuel.
Start the car cold and let it idle for 10 minutes with lots of accessories on. (lights, A/C or heater)
Do the same at the end of the drive cycle.

It took 3 cycles of slow freeway driving to get it reset
I drove in 6th at around 58 MPH
People were looking at me oddly driving a Porsche so slow!
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Old 01-05-2019, 07:16 PM   #49
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Thanks for all the info.

Might be a silly question, but what if my neighborhood exit route prevents me from following those instructions to a T?

As for the the p1341, I have not seen that since the first day start up. I am showing a p1325, however. Bank # 2 intake cam.

Still no CEL.
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Old 01-06-2019, 07:04 AM   #50
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See this thread...

https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/49783-cel-p1325-camshaft-adjustment-bank-1/

It may have been a temporary blockage or not.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:15 AM   #51
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I would try to follow it as close as possible and see how you make out. I have an inexpensive OBD scanner and was able to verify that all of the systems checked set and ready for the test.

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Might be a silly question, but what if my neighborhood exit route prevents me from following those instructions to a T?
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Old 01-26-2019, 08:51 PM   #52
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Well, I am still trying to get to the smog station. The car has yet to throw a CEL, but refuses to give a PASS reading for the SAI system. I have driven it over 600 miles and still in FAIL mode.
I have tried numerous times to follow the prescribed 'drive cycle' instructions. I have also tried the 2700-3000rpm cold start numerous times....

Still in FAIL for SAI.

P0491 and p0492 showing on the Durametric.

The SAI pump is doing its thing on start up for @ 50 seconds so I know it is working properly....

I am really focusing in on vacuum. If the valve at the end of the big hose coming from the SAI pump is not opening, then that could be the root of the problem. There is a vacuum line that connects to it that operates it.

I have checked all the little lines that cross the motor, control the tip-trans coolant line, connect to all the switches, etc and they all look good. I think i had some disconnected on the bank 2 switch...but now they are good.

FINALLY, tonight, I hooked up a vacuum pump to the reservoir and sure enough, it will not hold vacuum. It will pump up a little, but pretty quickly releases vacuum.

So, I pulled the alternator and accessed the screw that holds it in place and pulled it out.

New one on order and also looking into the SAI disable kit.

Maybe related is the transmission shifting too soon...especially 4-5. Can bad vacuum mess with this as well?

Really enjoying the car otherwise....

Finally...getting a fuel smell from passenger side front fender well. Been reading up and it looks like a fuel tank bleeder valve project is in my future...

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Old 01-27-2019, 02:08 AM   #53
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Old 02-02-2019, 03:31 PM   #54
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After replacing the vacuum reservoir, I am still waiting for the SAI system to go 'pass'.

In the meantime, I got my hardtop back from paint. I was concerned that since they broke the glass they might try and charge me more than the agreed upon price, but that ended up not happening. Not only did they stay with the original quoted price, they painted the clam shell I left them for paint-reference purposes for free. Both turned out very nice.
I really like the appearance of a hardtop on the Boxsters and how it lends to the flexibility of the car's looks.


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Old 02-02-2019, 04:15 PM   #55
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You know, my gut says yes. Heck, I am inclined to try just lapping in a replacement valve and spring and call it good.
...but I get to reading about the 03-04's having lifter problems and being prone to breaking springs....etc
I have almost talked myself into a new set of springs and lifters for the head and 'might as well' pick up a replacement lifter carrier....
Those heads can have loose fitting valve seats check that too.


edit: sorry didn't see this thread had multiple pages
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