I have two enging codes. What to check

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by Jamesp

What year car is this for? I've heard some of the codes can differ between different DME revisions.

Not these codes.

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Not these codes.

Yup - pulled out my DME 7.8 book and there they were.

[Jamesp]

Fuzzuki - Here's what I did to kill the dreaded SAI code.

Need Professional Help Diagnosing with Durametric Data

To cut to the chase on the thread, the SAI comes down to a blower moving air through the heads directly into the exhaust manifold ahead of the cats.

If the air does not appear on cue, you get the codes.

This occurs at a cold start when the temp is below about 70F, but it also occurs while you are stopped idling after going down the road as part of a drive cycle check. Sneaky.

So, what to check?

Vacuum leak as already noted. The valves are driven by vacuum, lose that, and you get the codes

The valves may not be operating - change them - it's a booger.

Under the rear trunk liner that covers the left rear fender there's a big honking green fuse . Check that fuse. If it is blown there's likely a vacuum problem that helped it blow, the blower fan was dead headed. Mine was blown because my changeover valve was not opening due to lack of vacuum - all that is in the string above.

There are also computer wires that run the solenoid valve for the changeover valve - if they are damaged then the system will fail, but that does not seem likely.

Best of luck!

[Fuzzuki]

That fuse was good.
Will check further into this issue on the weekend.

[Fuzzuki]

I checked. My blower motor is not running.

I just put a glass window top on.
Its really hard to get the top into the correct position to gain access to the motor??

Is there an optimal position for this?

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by Fuzzuki

I checked. My blower motor is not running.

I just put a glass window top on.
Its really hard to get the top into the correct position to gain access to the motor??

Is there an optimal position for this?

I just replaced my stock roof with a glass window with a replacement roof with a glass window. The new window is a little bigger and I have no idea how I'll get at the engine now. Access is cut in half with the new top when in the service position. Oh well, I just hope things hold together.

You can power your blower motor directly off the battery by pulling the fuse and running a large gauge wire from your battery positive to the fuse holder I pulled the fuse and made the connection at the back of the fuse holder. I did not want to power the upstream part of the circuit even though it would be open, just didn't know what I might be sending power to.

If the fan runs at that point you just eliminated that part of the system (fan and associated power wiring) from the fault tree.