Appropriate size Jack Stands?

[BoomerRoadie]

Hello all and thanks for the info.

I'm starting to recognize a pattern with you guys. Every time I ask a question and give you a choice between Option A and Option B....I end up with both!!!

But this has been very helpful as always. I was trying to minimize the gear but maybe that's not a good idea here. Shoot!!

[Gelbster]

a cheap,simple alternative -one of which is on casters !:
Wooden Car Stands? Where to buy/ How to make?
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/wood-cribbing-block-diy-for-raising-the-car-in-addition-to-jack-stands/

[cas951]

This is actually a great idea if you need the height of a lift. Very stable. The next problem would be a jack that can lift high enough.

[rick3000]

Originally Posted by BoomerRoadie

I'm starting to recognize a pattern with you guys. Every time I ask a question and give you a choice between Option A and Option B....I end up with both!!!

Haha, there are no simple answers, and you have to keep in mind most of the people on this forum are enthusiasts not mechanics so you will need to evaluate the information/opinions you get for yourself and determine what you think is the best/right way to do things. That said, there are a lot of super knowledgeable people on this forum!


Those Lift Bars look great, but they are model specific and $275 shipped, a bit pricey in my opinion. The problem with that Harbor Freight attempt at a lift bar is that it doesn't have a place to put the jack stands once you get the car into the air, since the bar is already using/covering the jack points.

+1 for the Harbor Freight Long/Low Jack Gelbster mentioned. That is what I use and it works great, and can reach the back of the engine cover/plate to lift both rear wheels at once.

My Esco stands have a minimum height of 13", which is doable, but getting the car onto the stands is somewhat terrifying. I think 15" minimum height is too high, without using a crib or some cut up 2x10" to get the car a bit higher when you start. I will be building a 2 or 3 stage wooden crib in 4" high sections before my next oil change.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by rick3000

Haha, there are no simple answers, and you have to keep in mind most of the people on this forum are enthusiasts not mechanics so you will need to evaluate the information/opinions you get for yourself and determine what you think is the best/right way to do things. That said, there are a lot of super knowledgeable people on this forum!


Those Lift Bars look great, but they are model specific and $275 shipped, a bit pricey in my opinion. The problem with that Harbor Freight attempt at a lift bar is that it doesn't have a place to put the jack stands once you get the car into the air, since the bar is already using/covering the jack points.

+1 for the Harbor Freight Long/Low Jack Gelbster mentioned. That is what I use and it works great, and can reach the back of the engine cover/plate to lift both rear wheels at once.

My Esco stands have a minimum height of 13", which is doable, but getting the car onto the stands is somewhat terrifying. I think 15" minimum height is too high, without using a crib or some cut up 2x10" to get the car a bit higher when you start. I will be building a 2 or 3 stage wooden crib in 4" high sections before my next oil change.

If you saw the lift bars, you would understand why they are worth the money; they are incredibly well made and very strong. A car up on them is both high and very stable, even at heights above 20 inches. We have a couple of sets and used them both in the shop and at the track. I would highly recommend them to anyone working on jack stands.

[BoomerRoadie]

I can't even remember what this post was about, but this cross beam thin from HF g is interesting.

I remember reading someone posted that when the HF ones are used you cannot inset the jack stands in position because the cross bar occupies the space you need to properly place them.

Is this true?

Is there another way around this problem?

Thx!!