Remapping ECU

[Boxtaboy]

Problem is 16" wheels don't look good no matter how light they are. 18" OZ Allegererita HLTs are only 17.4 lbs front / 18.8 rears, and look pretty decent.

[bwdz]

Originally Posted by Boxtaboy

Problem is 16" wheels don't look good no matter how light they are. 18" OZ Allegererita HLTs are only 17.4 lbs front / 18.8 rears, and look pretty decent.

I wasn't implying to go 16s just citing how light they were, going with lightweight in whatever size you chose is the recommendation I was implying. Yours sound really light and I have had OZ wheels before and they held up decent albeit not great on Michigan roads (I bent them in a couple seasons)

[Boxtaboy]

Originally Posted by bwdz

I wasn't implying to go 16s just citing how light they were, going with lightweight in whatever size you chose is the recommendation I was implying. Yours sound really light and I have had OZ wheels before and they held up decent albeit not great on Michigan roads (I bent them in a couple seasons)

Oh I know you weren't suggesting we go to 16s. You make a good point. It's an easy way to gain performance. I don't have the OZs right now (have SSR 3-piece forged wheels currently), but even those aren't that light (24lbs)...will be switching to those OZs if I ever need to replace the SSRs.

[bwdz]

Originally Posted by Boxtaboy

Oh I know you weren't suggesting we go to 16s. You make a good point. It's an easy way to gain performance. I don't have the OZs right now (have SSR 3-piece forged wheels currently), but even those aren't that light (24lbs)...will be switching to those OZs if I ever need to replace the SSRs.

LOL, you know we're picky when we know the exact weight of our wheels. Just another reminder of how important rotating weight is, why do you think the high end cars have cross drilled brake rotors, the answer of course is to save a few ounces of rotating weight as they are really just prone to cracking that way but rotating weight is that important.