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Old 10-30-2016, 05:51 PM   #1
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Minteanace question

Hello All,
Am a brand new owner - just picked it up two days ago. First thing I wanted to do was an oil change. Not very difficult. Youtube had some great help on that. My question and possible concern is that I believe I was supposed to change the 'crush washer' on the oil pan bolt. There was no washer on the bolt when i took it off and when I tried to buy a crush washer, they could bot find out what it even was. So I put the drain plug back in with no washer at all.
Is that an issue or not?

Second thing was that the temperature during my first and only drive so far stayed just over 180 degrees but if I sat for a bit, it started to climb. And the litle red light just to the right of the 240 degree mark kept blinking. So i took off the bumper (thanks again to Youtube) and cleaned the radiators. See attached photos. Did not check the fan motors themselves but will do so before reattaching everything. Will take a couple of days to do that as I will be repairing the plastic vents first (a lot of cracks). Am thinking of fiberglass for the vent repair.
Suggestions.

And, the passenger window does not work. So i opened the door and found the cable was broken. Looks like the motor works. So, I can change the cable system. But the window is all the way up. how do I lower it (since the cable is broken) so I can loosen the connections and change the part.

That was my day. But I had fun. looking forward to getting Bertha (that's right) roadworthy. Thanks in advance for the advice.


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Old 11-01-2016, 03:58 PM   #2
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I would think it has a crush washer for a reason. Go to local dealer and get one, if there not too much get more for future oil changes. If price is high add some if you had to order parts. I think your talking about the "window regulator" check out these links. Hope this helps and get you going down the right path.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swh72qx4-sg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VbJoSuWncQ

Porsche Boxster Window Regulator Replacement / Window Switch Replacement / Window Motor Replacement - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article
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Old 11-01-2016, 05:06 PM   #3
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The drain plug is harder steal than the aluminum pan and so tightening the plug too much can strip the threads in the pan. $$$! The crush washer is softer copper. It deforms a bit and seals without over tightening. Fanatics use a torque wrench.

Common practice on VWs, Subarus, etc.

I used to have a spare drain plug and washer I somehow acquired and when I went to my local quick oil place (gasp!) I'd take em a nice clean set and make sure my baggie got the old set and I'd clean it for the next time.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-porsche-parts/copper-crush-washer-priced-each/n0138083/?utm_source=eBayCommerce&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=US.ShoppingFeed

Pelican

Or one of the dealers that sells online.
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Old 11-01-2016, 05:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fanguy View Post
... I think your talking about the "window regulator" check out these links. Hope this helps and get you going down the right path.
...Porsche Boxster Window Regulator Replacement / Window Switch Replacement / Window Motor Replacement - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article
You actually want to have the window up to remove it. In that link fanguy posted, figure #3 shows a green arrow. -Remove the plug at the green arrow, then Loosen (just enough to make it slack, it holds a clamp) the screw marked by the yellow arrow. One front and one rear, that's all that holds the window.

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Old 11-01-2016, 05:18 PM   #5
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In a pinch, wipe the old one clean and reuse it.

Next time you are at the dealer or are putting in an online order (through a company like Pelican), add half a dozen of them to your order.

The last time I ordered them from Pelican they were $0.50 each. Part number 900-123-106-30-M131. (note: M131 is Pelican's supplier code - leave off if ordering from someplace else). If you can't wait, I'm sure the washers can't cost much more than that from your local dealer.

You should be ok to reuse the old one as long as you are using the stock (steel) drain plug. If you switch to the LN magnetic (aluminum) drain plug it will be more critical because you won't be able to torque it down as tight (only 19 ft. lbs). The washer is just soft aluminum. When you tighten the drain plug it digs into the washer to form a tight seal. As long as the washer isn't horribly gouged, you should be able to get a good seal with a reused washer.

Again though, the washers are super cheap, so there's really no good reason not to use a new one (if you have one). I would refrain from reinstalling the drain plug without a washer as the drain plug could cut into the lower sump cover (oil pan) which is cast aluminum.

(just my 2 cents)...

UPDATE: Just saw MikeFocke's post and I will defer to his advice! I've been using aluminum washers ordered from Pelican, but if there are also copper ones, use what he recommends (Mike is the man!) - Thanks
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Last edited by BirdDog; 11-01-2016 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:49 PM   #6
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FYI, your coolant light blinking has different meanings... a slow blink (1/ sec IIRC) is an indication of being low on coolant. check your coolant tank in the trunk when car is cold. Do not fill to the top (full line). 2/3 of the way up is fine.

A quicker blink is an indication of coolant approaching overheating range. Light on solid and you're overheating.

I may not have this stuff exactly right so search to be certain.
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Old 11-02-2016, 03:56 AM   #7
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You can go here ******************************** and buy that crush ring your looking for and it costs next to nothing to purchase it.

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