09-16-2016, 04:04 AM
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#21
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Scituate MA
Posts: 870
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My mechanic recommended putting a ratchet stap on the two wheels and pulling them together. Do I put the strap through the rims and torque away? How much can I torque? Suggestions?
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09-16-2016, 05:20 AM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWBOX2000
My mechanic recommended putting a ratchet stap on the two wheels and pulling them together. Do I put the strap through the rims and torque away? How much can I torque? Suggestions?
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Until the bolt moves Shouldn't be much.
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09-16-2016, 05:25 AM
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#23
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Motorist & Coffee Drinker
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWBOX2000
My mechanic recommended putting a ratchet stap on the two wheels and pulling them together. Do I put the strap through the rims and torque away? How much can I torque? Suggestions?
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Your mechanic may be the best one to ask. I'd say, Just enough to move it unless it doesn't move with 'moderate' force.
Looking at the rear frame structure, the lower end of the 'side section bracket' is the part that you are going to be moving. The front part of it is bolted to the crossmember and will not move much. The aft lower part of the bracket is most likely the part that needs to be adjusted and it should move without a lot of force. With the diagonal brace and sheet metal plate off, the only thing providing stiffness to it is the connection to the stabilizer bar (through a rubber bushing).
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I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
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09-16-2016, 06:02 AM
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#24
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Certified Boxster Addict
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 7,669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWBOX2000
My mechanic recommended putting a ratchet stap on the two wheels and pulling them together. Do I put the strap through the rims and torque away? How much can I torque? Suggestions?
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When I did this, I did not pull on the wheels, that would seem to place a lot of stress on a lot of components that I didn't want to stress. Instead, I put the ratchet strap on the rear suspension brackets. Also, have the wheel alignment checked when you're done.
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1999 996 C2 - sold - bought back - sold for more
1997 Spec Boxster BSR #254
1979 911 SC
POC Licensed DE/TT Instructor
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09-16-2016, 06:57 AM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Scituate MA
Posts: 870
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Thanks guys. I was just out there (day off after 9/15 tax deadline) and decided to throw the towel in. There are too many things that could go wrong. My mechanic is going to come down next week and help me out. He was able to get it on before with straps. Bummed I didn't cross the finish line. It would have been my biggest automotive feat to date.
Thanks everyone for all your help.
David
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09-16-2016, 11:02 AM
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#26
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Scituate MA
Posts: 870
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That picture is very helpful 78f350. Thanks.
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09-16-2016, 04:07 PM
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#27
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,143
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Look at how much you did! You got a little help at the end, no worries Still you biggest automotive feat!
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09-17-2016, 03:34 PM
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#28
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelbster
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Hello Gelbster.
did someone exact measurements for a Ernie / Pedos solution?
I'm asking because today i did a little tour with some Porsche friends in the Black Forest. Mostly cars with a little more power than mine. And my problem besides a failing front brake (by fading) was a not very unstable rear. Not shure if all motor / transmission mounts are OK (will check that too). But it seems that the rear was kind of unstable at narrow high speed corners on the brake and with strong acceleration. No so much a problem when corner were protracted and speed was higher > 100 Km/h and above.
So i think an additional lower stabilizer bar might be a good idea. Also did order new Brembo HP 2000 brake pads some days ago and will also do a brakefluid change. Did a change last year, but not shure about the brakefluid used. Seems the right front brake has a problem. Will also replace all stabilizer rubbers.
Regards, Markus
PS:
This car did also attend. Technically it's a 993 chassis with a 300 HP engine. Very fast car. because it weights less than 1.300 KG.
Last edited by Smallblock454; 09-17-2016 at 03:43 PM.
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09-19-2016, 03:09 PM
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#29
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Scituate MA
Posts: 870
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I'm currently on my own again. Front to back I can get the first two bolts to line up in the brace. The next two I can see 1/2 the bolt end when looking up and through, so it is close. It is clear, the two bolts are bent a smudge towards the right tire. Can I put a nut on bolt and try to bend back with a hammer? How about just making the holes a little bigger. Laying on my back, I am not in a good position to whack the brace because of its location. Desperation has set in.
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09-19-2016, 03:19 PM
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#30
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Scituate MA
Posts: 870
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Or a block of wood and whack?
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09-19-2016, 03:39 PM
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#31
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: S.California
Posts: 2,027
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Desperation +Hammer+ confined space is not a good combo.
Suggest you wait for a few comments to help avert a disaster.
What happened to the ratchet strap idea?They are cheap ,safe and controllable.Harbor Freight has them, less tan $20 with your 10% off coupon:
3300 lb. Capacity 2 in. x 27 ft. Heavy Duty Ratcheting Tie Down 1 Pc
Get the free mini flashlight while you are there. It fits in your mouth (!) so you have both hands free while you are crawling around under the car like a lizard.
Take your time & be safe !
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09-19-2016, 03:50 PM
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#32
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Scituate MA
Posts: 870
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I tried the straps. First, not a good place to grab. They slide to the good area. Second, the brace twists as pressure is put on it. It does not stay flat.
Thanks for responding.
I have light and I have two large wood blocks next to me at all times so the car can't not fall on me.
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09-20-2016, 02:00 AM
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#33
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,456
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Hello DWBOX2000,
don't widen the holes. That is a very bad idea, because you ruin the geometry. This brace is a big stabilizer for the rear axle construction.
Is it too wide or too tight?
Where exactly is it too wide or too tight? Direction front of car or rear of the car?
Where exactly did you put the strap and did you use 2 straps (front / rear)?
Regards, Markus
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09-20-2016, 03:09 AM
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#34
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Scituate MA
Posts: 870
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The strap I put on was connected to the brace on both ends of the strap. I looped through the tire and started pulling. The two bolts that do line up were held in place with the car jack.
As mentioned, I can see 1/2 of the bolts when I look up through the holes so I am close. I will try and post pictures later.
Thanks.
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09-20-2016, 04:15 AM
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#35
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Scituate MA
Posts: 870
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09-20-2016, 04:18 AM
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#36
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Scituate MA
Posts: 870
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It is the two closet bolts in the picture that are not lining up. Both bolts curve towards the right wheel. Can I put a block of wood on the two bolts and whack them back to line up? This a bad idea?
Thanks,
David
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09-20-2016, 04:20 AM
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#37
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bastrop, Tx
Posts: 2,643
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For as much effort as you're putting into trying to get the holes to line up, you might as well go ahead and replace that bent cross member along with the correct rear subframe.
__________________
Woody
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09-20-2016, 04:26 AM
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#38
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Motorist & Coffee Drinker
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWBOX2000
It is the two closet bolts in the picture that are not lining up. Both bolts curve towards the right wheel. Can I put a block of wood on the two bolts and whack them back to line up? This a bad idea?
Thanks,
David
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If I was going to whack something to get those bolts in the holes it would be the free end of the diagonal brace with a rubber mallet.
__________________
I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
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09-20-2016, 04:32 AM
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#39
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,456
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Ah, OK, i thought you'd have problems to get the aluminium brace in. See picture attached.
Where the bolts marked green and yellow in general don't make any problems, but the bots marked red can make problems to fit to the aluminium brace.
I'm not shure if all bolts are in one line. If they are and it is only a problem to get the 2 bolts on the red arrows side in line with the aluminium brace, this could easliy corrected with a ratched strap.
If the bolts are not in line on one side, this cross member has to be replaced.
Regards, Markus
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09-20-2016, 04:51 AM
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#40
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Motorist & Coffee Drinker
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallblock454
Ah, OK, i thought you'd have problems to get the aluminium brace in. See picture attached.
Where the bolts marked green and yellow in general don't make any problems, but the bots marked red can make problems to fit to the aluminium brace.
I'm not shure if all bolts are in one line. If they are and it is only a problem to get the 2 bolts on the red arrows side in line with the aluminium brace, this could easliy corrected with a ratched strap.
If the bolts are not in line on one side, this cross member has to be replaced.
Regards, Markus
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I don't disagree with Markus and Woody, but also not sure I totally understand the issue. If I understand the problem correctly, you are trying to get the two right rear bolts to line up. Try using the strap on the mounting point for the stabilizer bar brackets.
__________________
I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
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