Aluminum diagonal brace
 

My right side diagonal brace does not want to go on. It was tough to get off so I was expecting this. My mechanic had mentioned it was tough to put back on when he did some work a few months ago. The car drives straight as an arrow. Are the four bolts in a straight line. The one third from the front doesn't seem in line with the other three. Not sure if it's that or the brace is bent.
Any suggestions?

Are you referring to the diamond shaped plate under the transmission?
When you say it won't go back on, are you having trouble getting one of the bolts in, or all of them?

If you can get most of the bolts in, I would take it to an alignment shop and have them reinstall the final bolt, and check the alignment, which can get thrown off by removing the brace.

Here is some more info on dealing with it:
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/56230-rear-diagonal-brace-removal-question.html
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/53796-can-not-get-transmission-cover-back.html

I just put a straight edge against the side. It is not straight. The other side (left) is straight. Are they both suppose to be straight?
I did not remove the chassis reinforcement plate. I just took off the four nuts back to front and loosen the nuts under the sill. I had to wrestle off. Left side came right off and went back on. I guess I start there.

I'll check again tomorrow with more light. Thanks for the response.

Hello DWBOX2000,

are the rear wheels mounted on the car? Remove them. They pull the axles down.

Also you can support the axles a little bit. The brace should than move in / out without force.

Regards, Markus

Wheel is off. I'll try a little pressure tonight.
Thank you,
David

Some folks have had to put a ratchet strap on the structure and pull those two bolts together. Or if you have a rear suspension support bar, like the techno brace, this provides additional support and keeps those two points together. You probably don't want to spend any more $$$, but this would be the perfect time to install one. I've got one, and the last time I had the sheet metal brace off it went back on easy :) The first time I had the brace off it was pretty tough to get back on... I had to use a rubber mallet.

Porsche Boxster Rear Suspension Support and Pedro Bar - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article

Well I talked to my mechanic. I was told I should not have lowered the left (all done) without the right support on. It could warp the suspension. I did not see any mention of this in the instructions I used. I could have missed. I thought I was helping since the car had been on jacks for 2 weeks. I thought it would relieve some stress. Ughhh.

It was a bear to get off. Left came right off and went back on without a hitch.

Thanks.

If the car is up on 4 jack stands while the work is done, I don't see how this could affect anything.

I don't think you are supposed to put the car down on 4 wheels with those diagonal braces and sheet metal brace off though (although with a quick search I can't find my reference for that). Did you do the work by jacking up a corner at a time? If not you should be OK. Even if so, you probably would just need an alignment, which you need anyway due to the new lowered springs.

Thanks Steve.

I had the front on the ground at all time.

I raised the whole back and then proceeded with the steps. I got all the way with both except connecting the axles and braces while the entire rear was in the air. I connected the left axle and brace and lowered. Actually lI connected the left brace before doing the left axle if it matters. Immediately moved onto right. Connected axle and then tried to put on brace. Brace wont go on.

As I mention, it was a bear to get off.

Not sure it would matter but when the IMS was done (500 miles ago), the mechanic left a few nuts and a bolt off that I realized at home. I think a nut was missing on the brace, one on the mount that supports the tranny (At rear of car - hangs down) and some other bolt I didn't realize. I noticed at home after 500 miles or so and drove back to shop which the nuts were then added.

So what is the consensus on the Pedro Bar mentioned by Steve ?
Has anyone made their own diy version ?
This type of mod is common on many other cars - Miata ,S2000, BMW.

Porsche Boxster Rear Suspension Support and Pedro Bar - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article[/QUOTE]

Insite & other well respected members had some great ideas:
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/10817-driving-impressions-lower-stress-bar.html
http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/12915-diy-rear-suspension-brace.html
This looks simple?
http://www.cheetahonline.com/products-page/porsche/porsche-rear-suspension-brace-3/
This link above loads slowly -be patient.

Several folks have made their own a while back, there is a thread here somewhere about it (oh it looks like you kinked it with your edit). I think a few other vendors, rennline might be one, that sell a version of this bar.

I just put one of mine back together yesterday. Some of this may be helpful.
http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/63154-replacing-rear-suspension-bracket.html#post510170

I made one back when it first appeared on 986forum, very simple, cost about $12, versus Pedro's expensive, albeit shiny bar.
More info here: :cheers:
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/10817-driving-impressions-lower-stress-bar.html

You just have to push and pull. I used ratchet straps, as Steve mentioned. Alignment may or may not be necessary, but it never hurts (when all the work is done).

Some of the links and photos have 'died' in this old thread.
rbcbearing.com has a good pdf showing the solid rod ends available
Here is a current Speedway Motors link for tube and joints:
for example a 1" o.d. x 18"x 3/4"-16 tube(measure yourself!!) is here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speedway-IMCA-Approved-3-4-Thread-Swedged-Steel-Tube-18-Inches-Long-/261872099895?hash=item3cf8cb2237:g:HuMAAOSwBLlVQsx B&vxp=mtr
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Swedged-Steel-Tube-3-4-Inch-Thread,2091.html
cheap solid rod end LH:
Standard Steel Heim Joint Rod Ends, 3/4-16 LH Male
You would need RH and the correct bore size for the bolt (7/16" = 0.4375")

Gelbster, I have a folder in my 986 archive with all the original pictures from the 'Driving Impressions' thread. If you PM your email, I will send it over. :cheers:

Hello Gelbster,

the good idea of the Pedros / Ernie design is that you fix the head of the bolt with the bar itself. There is not much / no room to access it, if you want to mount it above.

Shure, you can also mount it below and use the parts you've mentioned. I personally would always prefer the above solution.

In general i think the products are overpriced, because they are not too complicate to fabricate.

There is also a triangular solution. Don't know how good product quality is: PORSCHE BOXSTER 986 ULTRA RACING 4-point Rear Lower Bar UR-RL4-1105

Because it seems to be jammed on the connection points, i think it's not as stable as the Pedros / Ernie design.

Regards, Markus

Going back and forth with Woody, the car was hit on the right side right where the brace attaches next to the jacking point. Woody was able to know the mounts from my pictures weren't correct for the car. Applying magnet to sheet metal confirms bondo as well. That bolt seemed to float a bit compared to left side.
Car drove great before so goal for now is to get the brace on. I will eventually need to go to body shop and have them fix everything correctly. That's a ways away unfortunately.😢
David

That is a great deal at $107 ! From Malaysia !