10-03-2015, 01:30 PM
			
			
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			#1
			
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				Anyone familiar with manual transmission leaks?
			 
			 
			
		
		
		
			Mine seems to be leaking from the levers that the cables snap on to.  Any ideas?
 
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			10-03-2015, 01:47 PM
			
			
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			#2
			
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			There is a bronze bushing where the shift lever enters the case that is not available by itself. You can buy a new tailshaft housing or just make a replacement bushing.  Might want to make several & sell here.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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						Last edited by BYprodriver; 10-03-2015 at 01:53 PM.
					
					
				
			
		
		
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			10-03-2015, 02:35 PM
			
			
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			#3
			
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			 I am my own mechanic.... 
			
			
			
				
			
			
				 
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			Hey! I just had my shift lever bushing machined out and a roller bearing pressed in and a new seal installed. Trans comes off and gear box cover comes off. I can easily walk you through this process. Otherwise, it's a new gearbox cover, about $900.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			10-04-2015, 05:41 PM
			
			
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			#4
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
		
			
				
					Originally Posted by  Timco
					 
				 
				Hey! I just had my shift lever bushing machined out and a roller bearing pressed in and a new seal installed. Trans comes off and gear box cover comes off. I can easily walk you through this process. Otherwise, it's a new gearbox cover, about $900. 
			
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$900 or a meaningless leak...  Let me think...
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			10-04-2015, 05:45 PM
			
			
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			#5
			
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			 I am my own mechanic.... 
			
			
			
				
			
			
				 
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	Quote: 
	
	
		
			
				
					Originally Posted by  Jamesp
					 
				 
				$900 or a meaningless leak...  Let me think... 
			
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It got to where I was leaving 3-4 drops in every driveway. Not cool. Then I was low on oil. Super glad it's fixed now. It's going to get worse. 
 
Do that fix when you're rebuilding the rear end and a clutch. Trans has to come out.
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			10-04-2015, 05:49 PM
			
			
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			#6
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
		
			
				
					Originally Posted by  Timco
					 
				 
				It got to where I was leaving 3-4 drops in every driveway. Not cool. Then I was low on oil. Super glad it's fixed now. It's going to get worse.  
 
Do that fix when you're rebuilding the rear end and a clutch. Trans has to come out. 
			
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Ok ok.  I admit it's killing me, but a $900 fix?  My car needs a diaper.
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			10-04-2015, 06:04 PM
			
			
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			#7
			
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			I think he's saying his solution avoids the $900 but the trans has to come out to do it. It sounds like it has to come out for the $900 way too.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			10-05-2015, 09:23 AM
			
			
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			#8
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
		
			
				
					Originally Posted by  BYprodriver
					 
				 
				There is a bronze bushing where the shift lever enters the case that is not available by itself. You can buy a new tailshaft housing or just make a replacement bushing.  Might want to make several & sell here. 
			
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Also install a CA Motorsports billet shift arrester for the best shifting possible if using oe lube.
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			10-05-2015, 01:06 PM
			
			
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			#9
			
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			Lol...wrap it in a plastic bag and put some rubber bands around it. Fill and inspect every other three months or so; if you're good, you can get to the fill plug without removing anything!
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			10-05-2015, 02:54 PM
			
			
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			#10
			
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			 I am my own mechanic.... 
			
			
			
				
			
			
				 
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	Quote: 
	
	
		
			
				
					Originally Posted by  steved0x
					 
				 
				I think he's saying his solution avoids the $900 but the trans has to come out to do it. It sounds like it has to come out for the $900 way too. 
			
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Yes. This. 
 
Because I was finally doing my clutch anyway, it was easy to get the gear box cover off. The shift lever is held on by a simple clip inside. I had the old bushing machined out and a roller bearing pressed in. The real problem is the final outer seal. If there's wobble in the lever arm, it will leak again fast. If not much play, then you just need that outer seal. 
  
 
 
 
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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						Last edited by Timco; 10-05-2015 at 02:57 PM.
					
					
				
			
		
		
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			04-13-2017, 09:26 AM
			
			
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			#11
			
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			Timco, 
Thank you for explaining this modification.Seems like a good "while you are already in there " job. 
Do you have a recommendation for  which specific bearing to use to replace the bronze bushing ? s you mentioned, the best possible oil seal is the trick. 
As BYP suggested the CMS Motorsports Shift Arrester is another good upgrade - assuming the 2nd gear inspection passes.
 https://californiamotorsports.net/products/cms-996-shift-arrester
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			04-13-2017, 03:17 PM
			
			
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			#12
			
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			 I am my own mechanic.... 
			
			
			
				
			
			
				 
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			You know, I'd have to call and ask what they used. Pretty sure they just used a roller type that has the proper shaft and outer diameters. They wanted to stay away from the friction bearing that went out of round in the first place. For a machine guy doesn't seem hard. Seal must still fit.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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'13 F150 Super Crew long bed 4x4 w/ Ego Boost
			 
		
		
		
		
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			04-13-2017, 06:10 PM
			
			
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			#13
			
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			Thanks Tim. It seems like you are the guinea pig for this mod so very interested to know what your Machinist chose. It seems like a perfect accompaniment to Ben's ball bearing shifter upgrade if you are familiar with that.Never too late to add more "greased for life" bearings to a Boxster !
		 
		
		
 
		
		
		
		
		
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