I screwed up while bleeding my brakes

[texomawaves]

I'm dying to know your trick. I have lost faith in the Durametric for this procedure.

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by texomawaves

Is it possible you are drawing air bubbles thru the threads in the bleeder nipple?

I have definitely done this before, open the threads too much and you get a steady stream of bubbles coming in through the threads.

I am curious to see what the results are; I bled the brakes on my FJ and I have never been 100% satisfied; they did not get rock hard like the brakes on my tacomas after I bled them.

[Ckrikos]

I haven't yet bled my brakes as i usually make every mistake one can make when wrenching. I will usually never get it wrong again though. A motiv bleeder is on my list as i want to replace my brake lines. Good luck!

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[Timco]

OK. With the power bleeder up to 25, open a valve with the clear tubing running up and over a spring, then down to the floor to the reservoir. Use a high-power flashlight and look through the tubing. There are micro bubbles streaming out. This is not from the bleeder screw threads, since the power bleeder is making positive pressure and fluid is weeping from those threads, hence the rag needed to catch that. After 10 brake pumps, the bubbles stop, but only because they are very fast now and they make a cloud. The bubbles slow down half way through the tube and you can see them line up on the top of the tubing. After 20-30 min of this, the micro bubbles stop or slow. Then you know that line is done. Sometimes a cloud of bubbles came through, then a large bubble, then trails of small micro bubbles.

If you re-use fluid from the reservoir, it has to sit 5 min to let it de-gas after pouring it back into the power bleeder.

I did this to my rears first. Pedal came right back, felt fine. Drove around the belt route. Got back, noticed rears wearing fine but fronts still had L & R stamps on the rotor surface...no grip from fronts at all! Got 4-6 large bubble equivalents out and they bite now, but I am still going to have Porsche bleed them tomorrow to be done with it.

[texomawaves]

It's time for me to let the professionals handle it, so I got a flat bed on the way to pick her up. I was hoping there was a simple solution, and Durametric wasn't it.

[rp17]

Originally Posted by texomawaves

It's time for me to let the professionals handle it, so I got a flat bed on the way to pick her up. I was hoping there was a simple solution, and Durametric wasn't it.

Sorry this didnt work out for you. A group of guys on this forum met up a year or so ago at Top Speed where we used two motive bleeders and we did about three or four boxsters. Kenny Boxster might correct me if Im wrong but what we did was suction out as much fluid out of the resovoir, then refilled mine with Atf blue. Placed power bleeder on battery compartment and pumped the bleeder. That created the pressure to bleed the brakes while double checking that it doesnt go dry. Open up the bleeder valves starting from the furthest brake from master cylinder. (Left rear?) Watch for new fluid to appear un mixed then close valve and wipe up spills. We had some alcohol pads, didnt want to ruin those red painted calipers.. No pumping brakes and no mushy brake pedal when done. Motive bleeder is the way to go.

[texomawaves]

I agree to Motive bleeder is simple to use. I screwed up when I didn't top off the reservoir and sucked in a massive air bubble.. that's where we are now... air trapped in the ABS and a Durametric that was "supposed" to cycle the ABS. She's going to German European Imports to get fixed.

[texomawaves]

Randy, I need to return the bleeder back to you. Any time you need Durametric for anything (except cycling the ABS lol) you have a free ticket with me anytime. Chris

[Timco]

$139 to flush and bleed. Found significant air.

Shuttle to & from shop in 2014 Cayanne Turbo S.

We shall see! Hawk rear ceramics in today.

[Ckrikos]

So you had a bad master cylinder? Although you claim the brakes worked prior to tinkering with it. Some indies are just messy. You can try buying the 3m headlight repair and grinding out the imperfection.

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[BrakeExpert]

I'm not saying it won't take aeons to bleed with a long hose and gravity, but its free and you can do it by yourself.

Its interesting looking at this software and the control over the whole brake system. I feel like If the resovoir were bigger, the car could almost be programmed to bleed out the bubbles itself

By the way if your fluid is green and you open the cap and see patches of what looks like oil, water or water lillies, you are already WAY overdue for your brake fluid. Its typically done every 2 to 4 years on a non-track car, though in my city I've seen people go over ten years. Its magic that their brakes didn't outright fail.

[steved0x]

I have the durametric, 2000 Boxster S with TC, and I tried to use the Durametric to bleed the ABS/TC system. When I clicked the option (I can't remember what it was) nothing happened. I called Durametric and they said that not all features work with all cars but they are always releasing new versions and functionality. It was kind of aggravating since that feature is specifically called out on the website. It is possible that the person I talked to was low level and just giving a canned response, and it is possible that I had an older version of the software and that the feature is implemented in the current versions. Since then I have just done the regular bleed/flush and made sure no air gets in, and it has been good so far.

[clickman]

Why don't you update the software? It's available on the Durametric site for free (unless you have a cable from before 2008).